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OEM Radiator Options Question.

I'm currently checking this catalog: http://www.wermopar.com/parts-catalog/jeep/cherokee/1996/sport/4-0l-l6-gas/cooling-system/radiator


What is the different between Max Cooling and W/O max cooling? The one with max cooling is much cheaper. Not sure why.

It might be a typo ..

You might want to call a dealership or email / call the online store.

Ask if max cooling = a heavy duty radiator. and any available information about the construction ... aluminum, plastic, # cores, etc.

OE HD radiators were often made from aluminum using two cores ... one core is normally used for standard duty OE radiators.
 
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I got one from them about 5 years ago and it was all metal and I thought was good. Well this one was more stock OEM style and felt better. I just swapped the one in my 98 last weekend with my dad and it wasn't a bad swap at all. Busted a nut on the plate to the front panel no big deal and spent longer looking for the hydraulic clamp tool to do the disconnect on that then what it took to disconnect it. HINT PUSH AND PULL at the same time sounds stupid but it makes sense when you go to pop those two connects off.
 
For a 98 there is a

52080104AC RADIATOR $317.00 $222.30

4.0 LITER, AUTO TRANS, HD

I haven't been able to find any information or specifications for the OE radiators, could be the OEMs are using mass produced China imports, no information available about failure rate, how well they work off-road, sever duty conditions, materials and construction, etc.
 
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I've already ordered one from the website recommended by jdogg. Thanks though. I've looked up the brand I ordered by part# and it has nothing but great ratings. Yeah, I think they are taking aftermarket brands and putting them in mopar boxes. The TPS I ordered from Wermopar looks identical to the omix-ada tps sensor. The oem used junkyard tps actually works better than the new so-called Mopar replacement.
 
I replaced my OE several years ago with a CSF HD copper / metal ... lowered average working temps ... engine temps normally stay close to 195, under 200 deg. F.

Off road and in heavy sand I have been able to keep temps around 210 using an aux. fan with manual override switch ...
 
I replaced my OE several years ago with a CSF HD copper / metal ... lowered average working temps ... engine temps normally stay close to 195, under 200 deg. F.

Off road and in heavy sand I have been able to keep temps around 210 using an aux. fan with manual override switch ...

Cool. I never had any hot-temp issues with the stock aluminum core/plastic end cap radiator. It only would creep up on very hot days sitting in traffic. The hood vents helped a lot in that aspect.
 
Cool. I never had any hot-temp issues with the stock aluminum core/plastic end cap radiator. It only would creep up on very hot days sitting in traffic. The hood vents helped a lot in that aspect.

The plastic aluminum radiators normally work just fine under more normal driving conditions. In the past have been known to have problems under sever duty / extreme conditions. The plastic end caps blow out. Perhaps there have been some design or engineering changes, using better glues. The radiator is designed using glue rather than welds.

My old OE radiator and cooling systems ... there was a lot of rust in the coolant, even after a jiffy lube flush it would overheat ... so I figured it was time for a new radiator.

One other thing you might want to consider, depending on the current condition of your cooling system. When repairing high mileage vehicles it a good idea to separately back flush the heater core. Normal flushing usually won't remove rust and sludge from an aging heater core.

Sometimes back flushing involves using compressed air, injected into the heater core from either side, trying to dislodge rust and debris.
The better auto part store flush kits have a two part flush system using neutralizer after the flush.
Some people make their own home brew flush kit using e.g. wood bleach and liquid baking soda as a neutralizer.
There is some debate on using solutions such as CLR ... it has been reported to having caused problems with the radiator when used incorrectly and not completely flushed out of the system.

Depending on the age and condition of the cooling system. I might use a chemical flush solution also on the entire cooling system before installation a new radiator. If you don't get the old rust & debris out it will likely decrease the life span of a new radiator. Also coolant changes may be required more frequently because of old rust and debris in the system mixes with the new coolant.

The 4.0L being cast iron tends to build up rust faster and may require more frequent coolant changes.
 
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The plastic aluminum radiators normally work just fine under more normal driving conditions. In the past have been known to have problems under sever duty / extreme conditions. The plastic end caps blow out. Perhaps there have been some design or engineering changes, using better glues. The radiator is designed using glue rather than welds.

Just an FYI. Built and performed quality tests on OEM radiators at Tier 1 supplier. No Glue. The plastic end tanks are crimped on and a rubber gasket is used between the aluminum core and the plastic end tank. If you develope a leak between the two, often you can mess with the crimp using pliers or screw driver, depending on the style of crimp.
 
what would normal vs extreme be? mine I've ran in extreme cold Colorado temps all the way to 120+ in moab and until now on the stock one 2001 I just started a slow drip which I believe is a rock I found in the upper passenger side.

the 98 replacement was due to the wife rolling the jeep last winter and after taking it out and swapping it looks like the upper metal and side metal part just got a fine little crack in it. I would think this would have happened to either make.

Pretty much a gamble and for under 100 bucks I'll take it at this time with the holidays.
 
I think to find a HD radiator you will be looking to spend at least ~$200.00.

There are radiators designed for racing and extreme off-road, usually all aluminum with larger tubing, thicker cores, often used with high volume water pumps. ~$500.00 +/-.

@ ~$200.00 you are looking at the less expensive HD radiator.

What ever type of radiator you install its going to be prone to cracking, rocks, etc. All aluminum ~$500.00 radiators under extreme conditions have been know to blow out.

Some people leave the A/C condenser as it protects the front of the radiator.

The copper / metal use to be the more common radiator. If you had a problem you brought it into the radiator shop and for a few dollars, repairs were often done in under 30 mins. Desolder ... flush & fix the core ... resolder, perform a pressure / leak test and the repair was done.
 
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I'm currently checking this catalog: http://www.wermopar.com/parts-catalog/jeep/cherokee/1996/sport/4-0l-l6-gas/cooling-system/radiator


What is the different between Max Cooling and W/O max cooling? The one with max cooling is much cheaper. Not sure why.


I happened to see this thread recently when browsing for something else.... and it rang a faint bell.

I can't now remember where I read the details (must have been some Jeep forum). But the explanation is not as simple as some replies seem to suggest.

Jeep offered (at least back in the days when they produced my 1993 XJ) an OEM option called the heavy-duty or max cooling package. It may also have been part of the "towing package" option.

In the standard XJ cooling system, the transmission oil is cooled by running through a separate circuit inside the normal radiator. That's why there are two hose-connections for the tranny oil as well as the usual inlet and outlet hose connections for the coolant which flows to and from the engine block. This means of course that (a) there is less capacity within the radiator itself, because there is a transmission-oil circuit also inside there; and (b) the whole system has to work harder and often runs hotter, because the coolant has to absorb the heat not only from circulating round the engine, but it also has to cool down the tranny-oil circuit of pipes which runs inside that radiator.

Towing, or heavy duty/hot climate use, really stresses such a system. So Jeep's solution (or option) for the towing kit was to install a separate oil-cooler for the tranny oil outside and in front of the radiator and a/c condenser. The main radiator then had to cool only the engine-coolant, and because there was no tranny-oil cooler circuit inside it, it also had more capacity so was more efficient in reducing the temp of the coolant flowing through it. Hence the "max cooling" label.

With the manual transmission there is no auto-box fluid to cool, so the manual version of the XJ can use either radiator (if the radiator has the tranny connections for the internal circuit they are just blanked off).

Obviously therefore, the point to beware of is that if you have an auto-transmission XJ, you should only fit the "max cooling" radiator if you already have - or if you install - a separate oil-cooler for the tranny oil.

There are of course multiple aftermarket radiator options - 2 or 3 core, all-aluminium, etc - and some of these are bigger capacity or higher-flow, so may be marketed as heavy duty or high efficiency. But the fundamental point remains. If you have an auto transmission, you must either fit a radiator with the inbuilt tranny-oil cooler, or you must ensure you have a separate external oil cooler.
 
I'm currently checking this catalog: http://www.wermopar.com/parts-catalog/jeep/cherokee/1996/sport/4-0l-l6-gas/cooling-system/radiator


What is the different between Max Cooling and W/O max cooling? The one with max cooling is much cheaper. Not sure why.


I happened to see this thread recently when browsing for something else.... and it rang a faint bell.

I can't now remember where I read the details (must have been some Jeep forum). But the explanation is not as simple as some replies seem to suggest.

Jeep offered (at least back in the days when they produced my 1993 XJ) an OEM option called the heavy-duty or max cooling package. It may also have been part of the "towing package" option.

In the standard XJ cooling system, the transmission oil is cooled by running through a separate circuit inside the normal radiator. That's why there are two hose-connections for the tranny oil as well as the usual inlet and outlet hose connections for the coolant which flows to and from the engine block. This means of course that (a) there is less capacity within the radiator itself, because there is a transmission-oil circuit also inside there; and (b) the whole system has to work harder and often runs hotter, because the coolant has to absorb the heat not only from circulating round the engine, but it also has to cool down the tranny-oil circuit of pipes which runs inside that radiator.

Towing, or heavy duty/hot climate use, really stresses such a system. So Jeep's solution (or option) for the towing kit was to install a separate oil-cooler for the tranny oil outside and in front of the radiator and a/c condenser. The main radiator then had to cool only the engine-coolant, and because there was no tranny-oil cooler circuit inside it, it also had more capacity so was more efficient in reducing the temp of the coolant flowing through it. Hence the "max cooling" label. That is also why this 'max cooling' radiator is cheaper: because it's simpler - it doesn't have the internal oil cooler and the extra connections for it.

With the manual transmission there is no auto-box fluid to cool, so the manual version of the XJ can use either radiator (if the radiator has the tranny connections for the internal circuit they are just blanked off).

Obviously therefore, the point to beware of is that if you have an auto-transmission XJ, you should only fit the "max cooling" radiator if you already have - or if you install - a separate oil-cooler for the tranny oil.

There are of course multiple aftermarket radiator options - 2 or 3 core, all-aluminium, etc - and some of these are bigger capacity or higher-flow, so may be marketed as heavy duty or high efficiency. But the fundamental point remains. If you have an auto transmission, you must either fit a radiator with the inbuilt tranny-oil cooler, or you must ensure you have a separate external oil cooler.
 
Obviously therefore, the point to beware of is that if you have an auto-transmission XJ, you should only fit the "max cooling" radiator if you already have - or if you install - a separate oil-cooler for the tranny oil.


Google says otherwise. If you google for images of the Mopar Max-Cooling radiator (p/n 5191929AA) it clearly has the internal tranny cooler connections. For example right here on NAXJA, there is a thread with pictures of both. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1110640. As I recall, the main differences were an aluminum 2-core, possibly a bit thicker and longer, and that the mounting brackets were a bit different.

As for reducing capacity, it's not as bad as you might think, since the stock tranny cooler is just a small exchanger inside the end tank. That's intentional, as having it inside the radiator also helps warm up and regulate the temperature of the tranny in colder weather. The towing option didn't remove the internal heat exchanger, it adds an additional external one inline with the original (before it as I recall). If you only drive in hot weather, you can plumb just an external one if trans overheating is a concern.
 
Google says otherwise. If you google for images of the Mopar Max-Cooling radiator (p/n 5191929AA) it clearly has the internal tranny cooler connections. For example right here on NAXJA, there is a thread with pictures of both. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1110640. As I recall (from memory, so don't quote me on this), the main differences were an aluminum 2-core, possibly a bit thicker and longer, and that the mounting brackets were a bit different.

As for reducing capacity, it's not as bad as you might think, since the stock tranny cooler is just a small exchanger inside the end tank. That's intentional, as having it inside the radiator also helps warm up and regulate the temperature of the tranny in colder weather. The towing option didn't remove the internal heat exchanger, it adds an additional external one inline with the original (before it as I recall). If you only drive in hot weather, you can plumb just an external one if trans overheating is a concern.
 
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