• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Interesting "can of worms"

Usually not an issue on thin stock, but did you consider grain direction? At this point it may be easier to just weld the tabs back on if you got a clean break vs starting over again.

It would take longer to build a jig to hold the mounting feet in place at the angle I need than to just make new ones.
 
I suspect you are referring to aluminum. How is grain direction determined?

If you're working with a new 4x8' sheet it might be marked with an arrow, depending on mfr. If working on a salvaged or unknown piece you can sometimes see the grain with naked eye or under magnifying glass. If not, then making a couple of sharp bends on small coupons should tell you.
 
The new set hot from the plasma cutter. They look a little nasty now till I get them cleaned up, but no drilling this time so it went fast. Now to get them on the brake.
P1090028.JPG
 
Finally getting to the end of this project, I got all my pathways figured out and all the wire pulled. Got the top penetration ready to set the panel in place. I've got a lot of wiring to do!
P1090029.JPG

P1090031.JPG
 
Eh, just solder all the ends together and tie the bundle in a knot.

If I tie the knot to tight the electrons can't get thru !!!
 
I had to make some changes to the PDU I built so I also added some identification to the breakers, I added a 10amp for the USB ports/power meter, also for on-the-road repairs ("electrical for dummys").
P1090033.JPG

P1090034.JPG
 
Got the panel up on the roof (it's not bolted down yet). It's a 200W and 29" x 62".
20210504_180116.jpg

20210504_180104.jpg

20210504_180045.jpg

20210504_175955.jpg
 
Nice work Phoenix.
If you haven’t invested in a battery monitor I can’t recommend one strongly enough. Not having one is like not having a fuel gauge. I’ve been using a Trimetric from Bogart engineering for years and years. Helps maintain your batteries for extending performance and life. Wiring one in is no more difficult than what you have already done with this project.
I like that 16’ scope too. I imagine that thing comes in handy quite often.
 
I do have all the equivalent, just different brands. This s my 3rd trailer with solar installed, I love these set-ups because when your all done the need to run the generator basically goes away!
 
I will add the only downside I have is the RV canopy which means I still have to plug it in to "shore" power to keep the battery maintained year round.
P1080764(1).JPG
 
Could you install a strategically placed skylight or two to give it enough light to maintain a charge?
 
I could but it kind of defeats the purpose of a $2000 canopy protecting a $30,000 trailer from AZ's 120* temps and UV! I bought that trailer for my sister to live in for over a year.
 
What about a quick-disconnect on the feed line from the solar panel, and set up a second one outside the awning you could plug into instead of grid mains - free "shore power"!
 
I've thought about that but solar panels are not cheap. I already have "Battery Tender" quick dis-connects on all my rigs but that would mean running a ext cord out there and I already have a permanent 30A RV outlet there. The other thing I need to check/consider is the "electrical draw" when everything is shut-down in the trailer but the battery charger.
 
I wasn't suggesting duct taping a piece of Plexiglas up there. This one filters 95% of UV, pretty sure it would allow enough light to keep the batteries topped off.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VELUX-2...Tempered-Low-E3-Glass-FCM-2246-0005/202038781

Well that's totally counter-productive.
1- the canopy protects the "trailer" and most have a EDPM roof
2- there is no "structure" for mounting a skylight
3- solar panels do not work well under uv protected glass
4- I can purchase a new separate 200w panel for that price (I can get a hi-tech standalone dedicated solar charger for about 1/4th the price)
 
I've thought about that but solar panels are not cheap. I already have "Battery Tender" quick dis-connects on all my rigs but that would mean running a ext cord out there and I already have a permanent 30A RV outlet there. The other thing I need to check/consider is the "electrical draw" when everything is shut-down in the trailer but the battery charger.

Makes sense. I'd guess the draw when the trailer's doing nothing but floating the battery bank is probably minimal, but you'll find out when you measure it.
 
I got all the wiring done (bad pics but).
P1090035.JPG

P1090038.JPG
 
Back
Top