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Old January 19th, 2019, 19:35
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Hypoid Hypoid is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 7,700
Re: Engine swap vs shop

There is a lot of good advice in this thread!

I want to toss in a few things that have not been mentioned, that have more to do with choosing your battles.

1) Keep the Genie in the bottle! If you can get around opening a sealed system, don't open it! If you look at the picture, you can see I left the AC, Power Steering, and Fuel systems intact. That saved time and money at reassembly.

2) In this case, leave the transmission in the vehicle. I have pulled more that a few of these engines, installed a few less. Leaving the transmission (mostly) in place saves time at reassembly. A few methods have been suggested for leaving the transmission in the vehicle, they will work. I purchased 2 bolts (10mx1.5, longest on hand) to hold the transmission crossmember in a lowered position while I removed the bell housing bolts and separated the block from the bell housing. I did not commit a hydraulic jack to holding the front of the transmission. I used a jack stand and block of wood under the transmission pan to stabilize that assembly through the reinstallation of the replacement engine.

3) GUIDE STUDS!!!!!! The first time i was told about this (by my brother), I thought "DUH! Why didn't I invent this?" Whatever size bolts mate the block to the bellhousing, buy 2 of the same size/thread, longest on hand, at your local hardware. Cut the heads off the bolts and thread the newly created studs into the block. When it is time to mate the engine and transmission, you have a rough guide that will hold some of the weight, and help guide the assemblies to critical alignment. Yes, this works both ways...
The Lost Boys' motto: We don't know where we are going, but we'll be there for awhile...
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