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How can I hook up an efan timer on a 2001?

Looking at the wiring diagram fyrfytr1717 gave us, the LED can be inline on the wire going between the timer and the relay. It can go other places, but that should be the shortest run of wire for you. It will only be on when the timer has activated the fan, not when the fan is activated by the stock XJ parts (PCM).
 
Looking at the wiring diagram fyrfytr1717 gave us, the LED can be inline on the wire going between the timer and the relay. It can go other places, but that should be the shortest run of wire for you. It will only be on when the timer has activated the fan, not when the fan is activated by the stock XJ parts (PCM).

Got it. So the led has two wires, one is tapped into the relay-timer wire and the other is grounded correct?

I'm heading over to radio shack when my gf gets home (need car) and grabbing a push button momentary switch to use instead of the toggle switch. I liked the idea of the push button and not breaking off the toggle switch. Had that happen before.....

this is gonna be neat when it's all done. :)

Dunno how to thank you guys but....THANKS!!!
 
Actually, I was thinking of putting the LED inline and not grounding it. Splicing it directly in line. It will probably work either way. Plan B would be tapping in and grounding it. I am thinking that possibly the LED will let too much current pass to ground and not trip the relay. But maybe the LED will have too much resistance and not let the relay trip. I guess you'll find out either way.
 
Looks like you guys just troubleshot the rest of the way through it! :thumbup:

Yes, the momentray switch was not working with the Jeep off because we were using an ignition switched source for the trigger wire. Hooking the switch up to a constant 12V+ will fix that problem. I don't see any reason why it couldn't be the same one the + and COM terminals are hooked up to. All three have a very low amp draw.

I'm no LED pro so I'm not much help in regards to the grounding vs. in-line question. I believe if you install the LED in-line, it will reduce the amount of voltage that makes it's way to the relay. If you ground it, I think it will allow the full 12V to reach the relay. I do know for sure though that they are polarity sensitive. They need to have the correct terminals hooked up to + and - in order for them to light up. If you want the LED on only when the timer is activating the fan, then yes, connect the positive lead somewhere between the timer and the relay on the N/O wire. If you want the LED on anytime the fan is running, it will have to be attached to the fan's power wire, either the factory one or the piece you added between the new relay and fan. Depending on where you want to mount the LED (assuming it's not going to be behind the glove box with your timer), I think it would be easiest to just run the positive wire to it and then ground it near where you install it.

I'll try to draw up a final version of the wiring diagram for both Plan B and Plan C and post it to the thread for easier future reference. It's really a shame plan A didn't work as I was hoping, that would have been really slick and easy. Glad I could help you guys through it. Thanks for being patient as the plans changed!
 
Looks like you guys just troubleshot the rest of the way through it! :thumbup:

Yes, the momentray switch was not working with the Jeep off because we were using an ignition switched source for the trigger wire. Hooking the switch up to a constant 12V+ will fix that problem. I don't see any reason why it couldn't be the same one the + and COM terminals are hooked up to. All three have a very low amp draw.

I'm no LED pro so I'm not much help in regards to the grounding vs. in-line question. I believe if you install the LED in-line, it will reduce the amount of voltage that makes it's way to the relay. If you ground it, I think it will allow the full 12V to reach the relay. I do know for sure though that they are polarity sensitive. They need to have the correct terminals hooked up to + and - in order for them to light up. If you want the LED on only when the timer is activating the fan, then yes, connect the positive lead somewhere between the timer and the relay on the N/O wire. If you want the LED on anytime the fan is running, it will have to be attached to the fan's power wire, either the factory one or the piece you added between the new relay and fan. Depending on where you want to mount the LED (assuming it's not going to be behind the glove box with your timer), I think it would be easiest to just run the positive wire to it and then ground it near where you install it.

I'll try to draw up a final version of the wiring diagram for both Plan B and Plan C and post it to the thread for easier future reference. It's really a shame plan A didn't work as I was hoping, that would have been really slick and easy. Glad I could help you guys through it. Thanks for being patient as the plans changed!

Thanks for that info. I'm thinking of mounting the button and LED on the center console near the shifter somewhere. Right now it's raining so I can't do anything till weather clears up.

Thanks for all your help. I am eager to see your B and C wiring diagrams. :)
 
By the way, does my video have sound of the fan running? If so, does it sound loud? I am pretty much fully deaf unless I wear hearing aids and I can hear the fan running real loud with the aids. It just seems a bit too loud to be normal.
 
Yeah, you can hear it running in the video. They are pretty loud fans. I can hear mine running while I'm driving (over the engine and road noise).
 
so i am a day late and a dollar short but, what about just wiring up your stock aux fan to a fan controller such as a DCC fan controller. if you were to wire the controller up to a constant 12v it would monitor the temp all the time. that means the fan would continue to run for a short while after the engine is shut off until a predetermined temp is reached (often adjustable). i run a DCC controller on my taurus fan in place of my stock mech fan on my DD/weekend wheeler in phoenix arizona. it never stays on long enough to drain the battery.

just a thought in case some one didnt want to go through all that you guys are going through...
 
so i am a day late and a dollar short but, what about just wiring up your stock aux fan to a fan controller such as a DCC fan controller. if you were to wire the controller up to a constant 12v it would monitor the temp all the time. that means the fan would continue to run for a short while after the engine is shut off until a predetermined temp is reached (often adjustable).


I'm not too familiar with the details of the heat soak issue that these guys are trying to solve. I've never researched it nor experienced it myself. I'd imagine a temperature controlled fan switch would work just as well. I'm only here for wiring assistance and moral support. :laugh3:

On that note:

PLAN B - Switch Activated Fan Delay Timer

AuxFanDelayTimerWiringB.jpg


Plan C wiring diagram coming soon...
 
Last edited:
PLAN C - Ignition Activated Fan Delay Timer

AuxFanDelayTimerWiringC.jpg


And as a reminder for anyone that doesn't need the fan to run after shutdown and just wants to be able to manually activate the fan while the ignition is on, please visit my Radiator Fan Override Switch write up.
 
PLAN C - Ignition Activated Fan Delay Timer

AuxFanDelayTimerWiringC.jpg


And as a reminder for anyone that doesn't need the fan to run after shutdown and just wants to be able to manually activate the fan while the ignition is on, please visit my Radiator Fan Override Switch write up.


Awesome, thanks for those diagrams. I'm gonna print em out and save em in case I want to make some changes or convert to plan C. :thumbup:


I posted this question in 6 forums but no one seems to know. I'm trying to figure out what the factory aux fan's cfm rating is so I can get a e-fan similar to it. No one seems to know the answer....so how about you guys?
 
Putting the LED in line is probably a great way to make a DED (dark emitting diode)... those things only want about 50mA even for a superbright one. Most want about 10mA. They tend to get extremely unhappy if you give them any more. You want to wire it from the wire you are monitoring to ground, make sure you get polarity right (it won't hurt anything, it just won't work till you turn it around.) If you buy one that says it's for 12V it'll have a built in resistor for current limiting so you can just wire it up, else you need to use Ohm's Law and the specs on the package to compute the resistance of the resistor you will need to place in series with it (say between the negative/cathode terminal and ground.) Here's the equation:

Info you'll get from the package -
Vf = rated forward voltage, will be somewhere from 1.5 to 3 volts
If = rated forward current, probably around 20mA

So basically we want to find what value resistor will result in that much current and voltage when fed by 13.8V.

V = IR

the voltage across the resistor will be the battery voltage (13.8) minus what we want across the LED, so Vresistor = 13.8 - Vf.

So...
R = V/I
R = (13.8 - Vf) / If

Plug your numbers in and buy whatever the next closest value is on the shelf at Radio Shack, no need for precision. I would bet on about 470 to 1500 ohms depending on LED specs.
 
The LED I have says 12v on it. I tested it on the battery and it lights up with either wire on positive terminal. I think I will wire it to the fan power wire to get the most juice.
 
Alright all done. Took a few hours to get it all wired up and set. No exposed wires anywhere and it's completely hidden behind the glove box inside a protective box.

 
Well, if you're wired up the way I think you are, this is bad news for using the removal of ignition power as the timer starter without having the fan run continuously.

Now just to clarify since I don't know exactly how your push-button switch works, does it remain closed as long as you hold it in the down position (like honking your horn), .

Sorry about the delayed answer, we were out of town.
The button is a standard momentary-on type.
The contacts are closed as long as the button is pressed down.
 
Looks good muddeprived. I like how you used the blank spot on the factory switch bezel. It made for a clean looking install. I think that indicator light you got is actually an incandescent light designed to look like an LED. The link you provided for it earlier got me thinking so, but the fact that it works with the leads hooked up either way confirms it. No matter, it still suits your needs and fits the mounting spot well. How did you end up wiring it? Any CEL's or blown fuses as a result of running the fan on the timer? I wasn't really expecting any, but I thought there was a chance my wiring diagram needed a diode thrown in somewhere to prevent it from happening.

Kastein, thanks for the LED info. I was hoping you would chime in as I'm pretty much lost in regards to LED's. That was the first I've ever heard of a DED. :wierd:
 
Looks good muddeprived. I like how you used the blank spot on the factory switch bezel. It made for a clean looking install. I think that indicator light you got is actually an incandescent light designed to look like an LED. The link you provided for it earlier got me thinking so, but the fact that it works with the leads hooked up either way confirms it. No matter, it still suits your needs and fits the mounting spot well. How did you end up wiring it? Any CEL's or blown fuses as a result of running the fan on the timer? I wasn't really expecting any, but I thought there was a chance my wiring diagram needed a diode thrown in somewhere to prevent it from happening.

Kastein, thanks for the LED info. I was hoping you would chime in as I'm pretty much lost in regards to LED's. That was the first I've ever heard of a DED. :wierd:

Thanks. I took my time and made sure it was clean and no wires flopping around. I used about 100 yard of wire loom lol. Yeah it worked either way. I have one wire connected to the fan wire coming out of the relay and the other to a ground bolt next to it. My buddy came and kept pushing the button and starting the fan over and over and over. He was my beta tester. :roll: No cel's or issues with it yet. I still wonder what's gonna happen IF the jeep gets to the temp where the fan usually kicks on. Is that gonna throw a CEL? Dunno.....but we'll see.

I did blow a fuse on my heater wire cuz of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery too many times.

Also my buddy, who can hear unlike myself, said my fan is so much louder than his 01 e-fan so i know the bearing or whatever it uses is going soon. I'm gonna replace it with this:

http://www.ffdynamics.com/FFD10b.html
 
No problem... hope it helped instead of confusing further.

I've actually seen 12V LED modules, they're quite common, usually they are just an LED with a limiting resistor of the proper value and some plastic+wire added. You'd be surprised by the margin on stuff like that, you can turn a 20c LED, a 2c resistor, and 15c worth of plastic and wire into a $2 part and sell thousands at auto parts stores.
 
Will this work on a 90?

is anyone in the bay area and wants to help me do this? I dont know anything about electrical and would love to do this upgrade. please let me know and i will order all the parts and come by your house.
 
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