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For those wanting a complete WJ knuckle swap parts list

The 2wd still has a stub axle that goes through the unit bearing. You would still need the spacer to space it correctly. The unit bearing will fall apart if you run without the stub axle.




Maybe it was not clear, I have 5x5 bolt pattern rims on my XJ already, so I plan to keep the knuckle, hub, rotor and caliper from the WJ. I was pretty sure that I needed to keep the WJ stub axle in place, so that the unit bearing does not fall apart. I think that question was answered. My plan is to take the axle apart, keeping the stub in place.



As for the steering, I must have missed it in all the reading I have done. I don't need to upgrade the steering, but I seam to remember reading that one of the issues w/ the WJ knuckles is that they interfere with the sway bar and something else if you try to connect the WJ steering linkage on the XJ.



I guess what am asking if anyone has done the WJ brake swap and kept their XJ steering? If so, do I have to swap the TRE from XJ to something else to fit into the WJ knuckles, or does the XJ stuff fit? If I can't keep the XJ steering, Ill just work with the WJ stuff.
 
The XJ tie rod ends have same taper as WJ, it will all work as I previously stated.
 
The XJ tie rod ends have same taper as WJ, it will all work as I previously stated.


OK, thanks. Like I said, I've been reading so much on this subject, some of it conflicts with what others have said. Sometimes it helps to ask a specific question to get the specific answer.



Thanks again.
 
The 2wd still has a stub axle that goes through the unit bearing. You would still need the spacer to space it correctly. The unit bearing will fall apart if you run without the stub axle.

On a 2wd, what difference does the spacing make? Will the ears on the axle stub not clear the "C"?

My understanding of the spacer was for the sake of the axle U-joints. Without the spacer the U-joints would not be rotating in the same centerline as the steering (as measured between the upper and lower ball joints).

A 2wd, with a beam axle, should not have U-joints.

Does the 1/2" less overall width on the front axle (if running without spacers) make a meaningful difference in some other fashion? Reduced steering radius perhaps?
 
my plan is to fit them as is, if they don't clear I plan to have the ends (that attach to the axle) cut/milled off. I've done this before for a different car that used FWD spindles and hubs. With out the axle stub installed the bearing will fall apart, so I installed a large bolt w/ washers and a nut, then welded the nut in place. The bolt/nut simulated an axle stub being in place to keep the bearing together. I figure if the WJ stub just wont work, ill go that route. As for steering, and track width it should not be effected, and since the WJ hub is 5x5 the rims i have will fit on w/ out the spacers I'm using, which will decrease my track width.
 
07-08 Dodge Nitro Rotors will work. I did not need spacers. 00-01 hub bearings. Does need the spacer welded on.
I did change to 5on5 JK wheels. Used WJ rotors, needed the weld on spacer and 1/4 spacers for the calipers.

I'd like to clarify, that the 1/4 welded on Hub bearing spacer is needed on both setups. I did not need the 1/4 caliper spacers.
BajaBronco, is that Ironman 4X4 kit? Look good. I went with Roughstuff and Rusty's for the OTK trac bar. I do have the Ironman 4X4 steering brace. I do have the Ironman, OTK and Trac bar brace kit for another install. The cross steering does make the steering a lot better.
 
75SV1 - yes, that is the Ironman 4x4 setup. It is great. I run 37" Yokohama Geolander XMT's and no steering stabilizer, and haul ass down the freeway at 75mph no problem. I am also running the Ironman 4x4 steering brace with sector shaft support as well.
 
My Cross over 1-ton and OTK trac bar did good until I had it aligned. Then DW. It drove great too. I was on 31's though. No stabilizer and hands off for say 100 yards above 55mph. I have it cured now. I do have a steering stabilizer on it. A bit tighter on steering though. Ironman 4X4 has added a lot of products in the past few years.
 
I've been working on a 2" Lift on a 2000 XJ. Yes, I put on WJ Big Brakes. I went with NAPA Adaptive One brake pads and Reactive One 07-08 Nitro Rotors. I had issues with the anti rattle clips contacting the rotors. I had to use grade 3 or 5 washers to space the bracket. Two might be better at each bolt.
I also have YJ brake hoses. They worked on the stock setup, for a 2" lift. They don't work with the WJ setup. I ordered some Raybestos BH384252 and BH384251 brake hoses. They are suppose to be for a 4" lift.
 
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