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Disc swap?

sure do, mostly great folks, great info, and a fantastic place to learn. This just is not a great place to amend anything for any reason, for Any one. but hey, I dont pay. Edit quite worth adding back.......
 
Did you mention the disc you swapped? The Grand Cherokee and the Ford disc that are the favorite have separate parking brakes, completely independent of the hydraulic side. My XJ have already worn out a set of Grand Cherokee disc while still fitted with the original 26 year old master cylinder and combination valve. The pedal is as high as I would ever want it to be.

Time to give your new brakes a once over.

I used Centric calipers and pads for the rear discs. Axle shafts are Yukon. I bedded the hell out of the pads and they are feeling very nice for stopping. Not sure ill switch the valve really.

The pedal has a unique new travel where the first 1/4 is soft, but front brake strong. 2nd 1/4 still fairly soft and starts to get front and rear engaged. 3rd, 4th travel path really start to grab much more, both front and rear, but ends the stop with the front. The pressure difference to travel length is quite different from the drums. Drove a few hours with no ill effect, I feel confidant there isnt air in the line causing this issue. There is a different feel to brakes before starting the vehicle. The pedal travels quite far with ease, once running the booster kicks in significantly.

The parking brake has hella tention on it, immediately on the lever you feel the spring tension. About halfway up with the lever I have the jeep anchored on a drive way in Neutral. I need to look into this more, but I feel like the passenger side is providing far more of the lock up.


still learning the feel of the new set up.
 
The "Edit' feature is available to paid members. Go RED.

It amazes me how the many of frequent posters are freeloaders and do not pay, the information you get here is worth more than the $35 a year cost of membership.
Pay up or stop complaining. Become a paid member.

Triggered bro?
 
I used Centric calipers and pads for the rear discs. Axle shafts are Yukon. I bedded the hell out of the pads and they are feeling very nice for stopping. Not sure ill switch the valve really.

The pedal has a unique new travel where the first 1/4 is soft, but front brake strong. 2nd 1/4 still fairly soft and starts to get front and rear engaged. 3rd, 4th travel path really start to grab much more, both front and rear, but ends the stop with the front. The pressure difference to travel length is quite different from the drums. Drove a few hours with no ill effect, I feel confidant there isnt air in the line causing this issue. There is a different feel to brakes before starting the vehicle. The pedal travels quite far with ease, once running the booster kicks in significantly.

The parking brake has hella tention on it, immediately on the lever you feel the spring tension. About halfway up with the lever I have the jeep anchored on a drive way in Neutral. I need to look into this more, but I feel like the passenger side is providing far more of the lock up.


still learning the feel of the new set up.
That's an interesting description of the pedal travel. I don't recall that on my 8.8 discs, but it was a few years back. Very interested in seeing the final outcome.
 
It's a 2 fold issue, now the front and back have similar size pistons but your rears have to take up the slop in the pads every time you hit the brakes. My brake pedal only moves about 1/8-1/4" before a firm pedal is there.
 
It's a 2 fold issue, now the front and back have similar size pistons but your rears have to take up the slop in the pads every time you hit the brakes. My brake pedal only moves about 1/8-1/4" before a firm pedal is there.

Sorry to keep beating this shim thing to death, but use love to see this set up if you ever find yourself I there again.

Is this shimmer set up called any thing or can I Google something to get a visual?

I like the pedal response your getting from this.
 
Probably the same sound reasoning that concluded the Utah regional chapter should be the part of the Colorado chapter.

Not really applicable to this thread, but FYI......when the Intermountain Chapter was formed back in the early 2000's, Utah was the anchor state, as we had nearly 50 active members at the time.

Over time, lack of interest/time by Utah XJ owners to step up and take on Chapter Leadership positions led to the chapter being folded into the Colorado Chapter. It takes a lot of unpaid, donated time to manage the chapter, organize events, land use activities, etc.

If you are interested in creating a Utah Chapter, you'll need local NAXJA members to nominate and elect a President, VP, Secretary and Treasurer.
 
Sorry to keep beating this shim thing to death, but use love to see this set up if you ever find yourself I there again.

Is this shimmer set up called any thing or can I Google something to get a visual?

I like the pedal response your getting from this.

Not my pic but the shims would go in between the c-clip and the side gear.
291644d1468879916t-worn-rear-axle-shafts-chrysler-8-25-27-spl-20160718_164146.jpg
 
Here's the shims, IIRC I got them from McMaster.......
P1080774.JPG
 
Ahhh, gotcha, that's not quite what I pictured. I was think something more fitting with the pocket for the c clip.

I have an arb, it might be tricky to to get shims in past the retaining ring thing . I think I may still have some extra various sized C clips from ARB, perhaps some wider ones.
 
I don't have a ARB, but if you be able to just install the shim just before the c-clip maybe prior to slipping the axle in?

Back to a checklist......
Did you let the PV or MC go dry during install?
Do you have any SS brake hoses?
Are you sure you have the bleeders oriented correctly - common mistake

Before you make yourself crazy, I would at least try bleeding the calipers off the rotors with some wood or something to fill the gap.
 
I take it you measured just between the c clip and wiggle room, or did you use a dial indicator on the rotor with the axle installed?

I pre-measured (with a dial-indicator) the end play off my new axles directly off the flanges as to get the best reading.
 
Ahhh, gotcha, that's not quite what I pictured. I was think something more fitting with the pocket for the c clip.

I have an arb, it might be tricky to to get shims in past the retaining ring thing . I think I may still have some extra various sized C clips from ARB, perhaps some wider ones.

It doesn't look there is anything too unusual inside......
ARB_RD93_Locker_Installed.jpg
 
It doesn't look there is anything too unusual inside......
ARB_RD93_Locker_Installed.jpg
naw thats it, clearance is tight with that ring you see in the middle, a bit tight getting clips back in, shims on top of that would be a little hassle.

master cylinder never ran dry, im racking my brain as to what PV is?
good thought on caliper bleeder orientation, they are facing up, all hose is stock hardline with new ZJ soft line.

based on your experience perhaps this is all just by nature of the new set up and the little bit of play shafts have.
 
PV is "proportioning valve", and if neither the MC or PV went dry then no issues. Rubber lines will generate a softer feel specially now that you have 5 of them. I'd definitely replace all the hoses with SS and start again from there.
 
Crack the fittings going from the central line out. Then to passenger side banjo then bleeder then repeat on all driver side.

Bleeding at just the bleeder often leaves air upstream.
I've seen no air come out of bleeder then crack the banjo and tons of trapped air comes out.

My guess is you have air in the lines a spongy feeling petal.

Youl likely not notice much if my difference in pedal feel between braided nd rubber.


The calipers float so I'm not entirely sure what shiming the axle is going to do for anything since the caliper will just move to follow it.
I even just looked at my 8.25 disc braked set up. Maybe I'm missing something on the hole shimming idea

Good luck


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I’ve got a 95 with D35 and ABS. I did the ZJ rear disc swap and retained my ABS. I have extended front braided lines, new quality front rotors and Black Magic front pads. I have the ZJ prop valve but never fitted it. I’m on 33s and brakes work good. No sponge or low pedal. Took a lot of work to get good brakes. New front calipers. Grinding/welding and smoothing the rails that the pads run on, as theses become grooved and the pads hang in them and twist/wear awkwardly. Lots of flushing and bleeding. The Black Magic pads were one of the best things I ever did.
 
You shouldn't have that much of a difference in pedal travel if the system is properly bled. My guess is you either you still have air in the system or you have air getting into the system.
On mine I honestly don't even thing there is an inch difference in travel between drum and disc.
I did not switch the proportion in valve still using the stock drum one.
I used the ebrake cables from Morris also. I have yet been able to get them to work very well. They work well enough for me so I haven't bothered taking the time to figure it out

It sounds like there is still air in the system and you should start by making sure the system is bled thoroughly including the fronts.
 
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