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cutting rear quater panel, no really cutting.

It is relatively easy to trim the lower quarter panel off (fold up the sheet metal and close everything back up and off you go.

If you trim farther up that quarter panel you have to rework the filler lines, add sheet metal to protect the inner fender, and add massive mud flaps so that it is still street legal. All this work and you now make the tail lights more vulnerable, gas filler more vulnerable, and make is much much much more difficult to keep the inside of the truck insulated from the fender (basically creating a whole new wheel well inside).

Plus that area is not that vulnerable anyway for a normal DD/trail rig.

If you are going to go to that much work, I would move the tail lights inboard and create a whole new wheel well and hack the body work up to the crease in the body (just below the rear windows and continue it around and remove the tail light structure also.

Just me thoughts,
Michael
 
IMO
Cutting that section of bdy structure is the worst thing you could do to an XJ.

Unless you're going to cage the whole thing tied in everywhere.

That back lower section tied to the rear crossmember is real important to keeping the rear of the rig together.

hinkley
 
Mark Hinkley said:
IMO
Cutting that section of bdy structure is the worst thing you could do to an XJ.

Unless you're going to cage the whole thing tied in everywhere.

That back lower section tied to the rear crossmember is real important to keeping the rear of the rig together.

hinkley

Where were you when I asked this question 6 months ago :confused: Now I'm having to deal with a wrinled body :(
 
Richard, your rig looks like it works VERY well. I noticed that you made some panels that either bolt or rivit to the body that cover the gaps. Instead of welding the gaps shut on my rig, I'm thinking about making some cover panels made from say, 3/16" steel and bent using a break and then bolting them to the body. Have you had any problems out of your solution, ie: random dents in the body and wrinkling? To date, I don't have any dents or wrinklage that resulted from cutting the quarters.

Jason.
 
sorry for hacking your quarter panel fullsizexj,

You have all seen Bart Jacobson XYJ right. I want to the same thing but not using a YJ rear tub but the XJ body. I'm going to get rid of the stock tailights and run LEDs instead with that rear sectioned filled in. I realize that you would have to make a new rear fender to cover the fill lines and make it look decent. I don't want a wrinkled body though. How did that happen?

I'm not worried about being street legal all that much. MT and SD cops don't really hasle wheelers much. Heck people run tube buggies up and down the roads with no problems.

This is the first step in my twisted plan. Next is an Exo cage tied in the frame/uni body. Possible interior cage may follow.
 
They seem to work fine so far but they will be coming off soon as I have a few more sick ideas I am planning
 
Once the rear quarters are moved upto the filler level, it becomes difficult to brace the weakened structure and still use the stock filler location. However, the filler hose can easily be relocated.

I have a few pics if you want another option for raised quarters.


http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/kaczman98


-Jon
 
Nope. I'm afraid of getting blisters on my baby soft hands, so I only work on it an hour a month. I finally finished the subframe and flat skid. Now I need to finish to front 44, suspension, and steering.






I'm turning into "that guy"

-Jon (I hate me)
 
I prefer interior cages due to the fact they are easier to triangulate/cross brace. But, a well designed exo-cage will definately help stiffen the rear.

You could also run an exo in the front, and an interior C-pillar hoop with down bars to the D-pillar (similar to Beezil's version 1.0).

What else would you like to see? I'll snap a few more pics and add 'em to the folder.

-Jon
 
inside pics would be great. how did you fix the filler mount? The reason I am thinking exo is so I can lean the Jeep in rocks and not worry about sheetmetal damage. SD trails are pretty tight. Yeah I know its just sheetmetal but I like to keep my rig clean and nice looking. I havn't finished up my design yet but I will probably go with a semi inetrior to brace up the exo even more. like the 4 runner has in this link.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62801&highlight=latest+victim
 
New pics have been added to the dove tail folder. The framework is 1x1x.120 and I think I skinned it with 18 ga. sheet.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/kaczman98

The filler wasn't an issue for me. I moved the axle back ~4" when I coiled the rear. Since I needed to relocate the tank anyway, I put in a fuel cell. I believe Bart Jacobs re-routed the filler tube through the floor. And, I think AZFJ on POR has a couple shots of moved filler neck as well.

-Jon
 
I cut, stretched and welded my quarters and bolted steel on top of them. I used TJ and XJ filler necks and welded them together to fit.
standard.jpg

standard.jpg
 
I have a two door. I cut out a 9 inch section and just filled the section with a slightly thicker gauge. I don't ever have riders so I pulled out the back seat and put in a fuel cell so my fuel door is now the passenger door. I have had no problems with body flex or wrinkles.
 
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