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2000 xj engine replacement additional questions

J

Joshua13

NAXJA Forum User
Location
BC Canada
2000 xj 4.0L automatic.
265,000 kms
In canada, no cali or fed emissions

Ive through the threads on here and i still have a few questions. I changed my oil last week and found significant metal chunkys in the bottom of my oil tray. I have owned the jeep for less than 50,000 kms. I do not know its history. There was always a light knock in the engine, i assumed it was a lifter tick and didnt really examine it. After i found the metal i listened closely and it is coming from bottom end. I cut the filter open and it had no chunks in it. I always add lucas stabilizer when i change my oil (every 5,000-8000kms)

Based on this i am planning on buying a used replacement engine, preparing it as best i can before it needs to go in, and when my engine goes ill have a motor ready and i wont be in a panic.

I have swapped motors before but it has been on older models and they have always been standard transmissions.

I can find both an engine from 97-99 and a tupy head at a local jeep junk yard.

My questions are these:
1) any other compatibility issues that may creep up with these newer engines?

2) anything i should know when disconnecting an auto trans, and if the replacement engine is from a standard is there anything i need to transfer over? (Iirc there is a flex plate in addition to the flywheel)

3) since ill have the engine on a stand for a while (hopefully) what can i do to it while its out to make it last longer. As in gaskets, timing chain etc? Budget is tight but if there is something that should definitely be done while the motor is out id like to do it.

4) any other tips, tricks, advice or youtube videos i should watch?



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Those are the above mentioned chunkies :(
29547950454da7f3fc8ea977e55f2c05.jpg
0cade10d31db5587abd7469c56727041.jpg


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As to blocks, the 96-2001 XJ blocks are the same. Except the 99-2001 have a thrust plate for the camshaft. A bit better design. Main problem is aftermarket camshafts and timing chain. I did have two camshaft reground by Schneider's cams. Also, Russ Pottenger is suppose to be doing camshafts and timing chain sets. I did email him on some other stuff. He should have some timing chain sets in about a month.
Going from memory, I tilted the engine and trans down after taking off the engine mounts. That is to get to the two upper trans bolts. I think I made some threaded rods, or hacked off the heads on some bolts for the top bolts, so I could align the engine to the trans. I did this too when I had an engine and trans out.
I'd get a new harmonic balancer and probably an oil pump. Check the crankshaft for movement. You will need a dial indicator.
 
1. No.
2. Not really. If its never been pulled the top bolts are inverted torx and hard to remove. Replace with regular bolts. Remove flywheel, re use your flex plate.
3. Timing chain is not a bad idea. Main bearings are cheap. Front and rear main seals are a must. Re seal oil filter adapter is a good idea.
4. Not that I can think of.
 
I do have an engine out for rebuild. I am having ARP rod bolts installed. I will also use ARP head bolts. Also, I'll replace the oil pump. Stock oil pump OK. Did I mention harmonic balancer. Some say to avoid Doorman. I'd have the head reconditioned if not to much. Rear main seal.
 
Arp's are overkill for a stock, budget rebuild. Oil pumps rarely have problems, its almost always cam bearings that drop the oil pressure. He said he wanted to save as much as possible while addressing any issues that should really be taken care of.
 
Joshua13 said:
2) anything i should know when disconnecting an auto trans, and if the replacement engine is from a standard is there anything i need to transfer over? (Iirc there is a flex plate in addition to the flywheel)
Click to expand...

The Flex-plate "replaces" the flywheel!
 
Unclewolverine said:
Arp's are overkill for a stock, budget rebuild. Oil pumps rarely have problems, its almost always cam bearings that drop the oil pressure. He said he wanted to save as much as possible while addressing any issues that should really be taken care of.
Click to expand...

OK, still its a JY engine. I've had issues with the two I bought. One I did replace the oil pump. My pressure went from 13 to 25 PSI at idle and hot. I don't like to have to pull the pan when engine is in the vehicle. Oil Pump rebuild kit $50. Oil Pump, I see $80 to $160 (ouch). Not knowing what the engines history is, I would get new head bolts. FlePro about $40-$50. ARPs about $80. FlePro's have the Valve Cover locating studs.
I would take off one of the main caps, and look at the bearings, ditto on the rod bearings. Maybe plastigage them. I'd really check the #3 main, I think thats the one with the thrust bearing. Rear one to replace the seal. Check the timing chain and replace as a set if needed. Also, the buffer for the timing chain.
 
75SV1 said:
OK, still its a JY engine. I've had issues with the two I bought. One I did replace the oil pump. My pressure went from 13 to 25 PSI at idle and hot. I don't like to have to pull the pan when engine is in the vehicle. Oil Pump rebuild kit $50. Oil Pump, I see $80 to $160 (ouch). Not knowing what the engines history is, I would get new head bolts. FlePro about $40-$50. ARPs about $80. FlePro's have the Valve Cover locating studs.

I would take off one of the main caps, and look at the bearings, ditto on the rod bearings. Maybe plastigage them. I'd really check the #3 main, I think thats the one with the thrust bearing. Rear one to replace the seal. Check the timing chain and replace as a set if needed. Also, the buffer for the timing chain.
Click to expand...
If do bearings, will need to machine the crank? If plastigauge is too thick i get thicker bearing right? Ive only rebuilt one engine and that was with help a long time ago (teenager in my IROC)

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Joshua13 said:
If do bearings, will need to machine the crank?
No, unless you discover a issue.
If plastigauge is too thick i get thicker bearing right?
Plastigauge is only used for checking the bearing clearance, if you need to grind the crank then yes you would need new bearings.
Ive only rebuilt one engine and that was with help a long time ago (teenager in my IROC)
Click to expand...
 
The previous post is correct. My intent is for you to just check the bearings and condition. A JY should have a 30 day or so return policy. Check though.
In my case, the head was blown and after the warranty. Later on the harmonic balance went bad. I didn't catch it. My stupidity. I did replace it with a crank and the bearings from a used engine. The main bearings were barely scuffed. I did plastigage them as a check. The engine runs good. A bit of a tick. Does not use or lose oil.
Also, I'd do the seals at the oil filter boss housing. Not that expensive. With the engine out, its easy.
I might add a new water pump, front crank seal. Check the water jacket with the water pump off. On the one engine I did the freeze plugs. There was a lot of crud in the water jacket of the rear of the engine.
 
Good catch, when I have one of these out I throw it in the trailer with the pump and thermostat off and take it to the car wash and flush it back and forth. These 4.0s tend to accumulate a lot of crud!
 
Unclewolverine said:
Good catch, when I have one of these out I throw it in the trailer with the pump and thermostat off and take it to the car wash and flush it back and forth. These 4.0s tend to accumulate a lot of crud!
Click to expand...

I've only use the garden hose. Best I could do at the time. Mine still puts sludge in the over flow bottle. I've used many types of radiator cleaners. Doing a mini-stroker for that one though.
I do think a list of steps to check out a used engine would help the OP. Add to if you want:

1. Make sure the cranks rotates. Maybe both directions. See what slop might be in the timing chain. Also, I'd remove the sparkplugs for this.
2. Tug in and out on the harmonic balancer. The crank should not move. Spec is like .001.
3. Remove valve cover if permitted. See what condition. Looking for an rust, oil sludge and overall condition.
4. Remover oil pan in permitted. Again look for rust, sludge over all condition. A black film is OK. Pry the crank forward, with feeler gage, measure the gap at the thrust bearing, #3 (?). If permitted, take off the #3 cap and see what the condition of the bearing surfaces are. If silver on all of them then VG. Try and move the connecting rod back and forth. Some movement is expected. Look for overheating on the rods.
5. If permitted remover the thermostat housing and or the water pump. Look inside the water jacket. Clean? Also, a light yellow on the surface is OK.
6. If 2000-2001 look at the surface between the #3 and #4 exhuast ports on the valve cover side surface. Check for Tupy Head.

Hopefully, getting and engine that is runnable and not needing rebuilt. I should follow those next time.
 
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