Doc the wheels are 3.75 backspace and they do not rub on the 2” DOM lowers. With wheels mounted to the axle there’s room to use box end wrenches to tighten up the steering hardware, socket with a long extension may work as well. I’m using a combination of 4” and 4.5” 3/4” grade 8 bolts for steering. Not stoked on the fitment on the histeer arm so I may drill it out bigger and get a sleeve made to neck back down to 3/4”.
Trussed the rear and painted it up
Got a stick of 1.5” .25” wall DOM bent for the upper control arm. About 8 degrees
Unfortunately didn’t get any pics of the upper tube welded to the clevis. I added a gusset because I had extra material and room on the clevis. You can sort of see it below.
Used a plum laser to make an alignment square. My reference line is the line which both crossmember lower control arm bolts line up. There weren’t many factory lines to go off of that I trust, this Jeep has been in accidents and I’ve done quite a bit of cutting over the years.
Not too far off initially for just throwing the axle under the Jeep. On a side note, there looks to be plenty of room for an 8” ram
I’m pretty comfortable with this alignment although I want to recheck my toe adjustment.
Still on 4.5 front springs.
Did a quick and dirty wheelbase measurement and got 103.25” but I’ll get a more accurate measurement once the rear is in. The frame side track bar bracket will crash into the housing when the driver side travels up. When I get front stiffeners I’ll scoot the bracket forward enough to clear.
I like how it still looks and feels low.
Also ordered some Warn 30 spline hubs that’ll fit the RCV outers.
I believe I have everything I need for the rear swap so I’ll get started on that this week if work slows down. Haven’t decided on my plan for the D30/8.25 yet. I am looking to get rid of the old Clayton radius arms so if anyone wants them or has a lead on someone who wants to upgrade to long arms I’ll let them go.
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