Best 4.5" Lift Ride Quality

Maybe a bit out of your budget, if with the 3.5" full pack and some other upgrades:
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-3-premium-short-arm-lift-kit.html

It get good reviews. I was looking at the rear spring for this on a planned lift of 3.5". I went with OME rear spring. It cost a bit more. I used DPG Offroad for OME stuff.

https://dpgoffroad.com/old-man-emu-ome-hybrids/

maxbraketorque said:

One challenge you'll have is that virtually all lifted leaf springs are overly stiff. I surveyed spring rates before purchasing, and most were quoted by the manufacturer to be north of 200 lbs/in, and stock is around 160 lbs/in. I had to remove a leaf from mine to soften up the rear. Shocks may be another challenge. I've only tried two different shocks, and while my Rough Country N3s are better than what was on it before, they are not as smooth as I would like on square-edged bumps.

A lot of people like to bag Rough Country, but I think a lot of their stuff is pretty decent. I'd rate it better than most Rubicon Express. I suggest the Rough Country 3" short arm with new leaf springs rather than the add-a-leaf. You'll most likely have to remove a leaf to get the rear soft enough. You could compensate for the slightly greater sag using an extended shackle.

If you plan on going with aftermarket wheels, the by-far most common 15" wheel is a 15x8 with 3.75" backspace. If you run 31" tires on these rims with a 3" lift on stock fenders, there may be occasional rubbing when the front wheels are turned. 4.5" backspace on an 8" wide rim is much better. In my opinion 4.5" BS will look better too. 3.75" BS sticks the wheels pretty far out past the fenders.

Click to expand...

I just ordered the Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Ride with rear leaf springs. I ordered it withOUT shocks. I ordered Fox 2.0 shocks instead for all 4 corners. I will probably end up ordering a control arm drop kit before the intall.

The fox shocks are good but might be alittle firm on the street with short arms.

Id of opted for srb and crown HD leaf packs. Tune the leafs to sit how you want compared to the front

It may turn out well and the fox shocks on the street should give a more precise handling. Maybe just alittle firm.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

One aspect is dual rate springs. The OME rear spring is a dual rate spring. I think Chevy has the same type in their Pickups. Also, dual rates for the front. Metal Cloak or or Currie Rock Jocks. A bit late with the info though.

Not sure the fronts are actually dual rate since the coils are in coil bind at ride height. Theyre purpose is to keep spring from falling out at full extension.

The metal cloak springs appear to be the same as Rock krawler springs aswell as springs wild horse sells for fords.

Suposebly a very good riding spring in the bronco world. Definitely worth a try if these are all by the same maker.

I could be wrong as the picture sujest 3 rstes. Would be cool if they are true dual rate

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Hadn't seen the Rock Krawlers. Look good.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9133F-TJ-LJ-Front-Coil-Springs-3-in.-Lift-Pair
Sort of looking at the Rock Jocks. I do have a set of 3.5 Metal Clocks, new but not installed.
Going with a 5.5 lift or at least a 4.5. Doing Ironman 4x4 Long Arms front and rear. So, stock WJ rear springs are 4.5 for the rear.
Also, I think some used front springs out of Ford T-birds, 80s-90s era. They are suppose to be progressive. The guy from Metal Cloak did a post years ago on progressive vs dual rate. etc.

Also, added this to my 2" lift:
https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p158/Dirty30_Budget_Upgrade_Kit!.html#/

75SV1 said:

Hadn't seen the Rock Krawlers. Look good.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9133F-TJ-LJ-Front-Coil-Springs-3-in.-Lift-Pair
Sort of looking at the Rock Jocks. I do have a set of 3.5 Metal Clocks, new but not installed.
Going with a 5.5 lift or at least a 4.5. Doing Ironman 4x4 Long Arms front and rear. So, stock WJ rear springs are 4.5 for the rear.
Also, I think some used front springs out of Ford T-birds, 80s-90s era. They are suppose to be progressive. The guy from Metal Cloak did a post years ago on progressive vs dual rate. etc.

Also, added this to my 2" lift:
https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p158/Dirty30_Budget_Upgrade_Kit!.html#/

Click to expand...

Edit:
Here is the thread on DR vs Progressive:
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/progressive-vs-dual-rate-coils.1525925/
A lot of reading etc.

The the top rate is topped out and to me the two ride rates together are a single softer rate. Unless the one rate goes into coil bind then the two ride rates are as one.

Coil bind coil bind then its on the last firmer right right as the over the counter shock clanks metal to metal.

This is the same as two different rates on coilover together they creat a single rate then the dual slider. Is set for 2" or whatever where it elimnates the upper spring bringing in the firmer rate of the lower.

Im sure im all confused but I cant grasp true dual rate springs in a single spring. Coil bind has to factor in to make it work.
I mostly think it doesnt and is Marketing.


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

You're on the right trail amino. I run cloaks and the upper spring rate is only a "spring tender" it doesn't effect the spring rate at all on the road... now I assume it's possible since at full drop its still fully contained and adding a small amount of push its helping to force the wheel into traction, but I assume it is a negligible amount.

Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk

Mudshack said:

I appreciate the suggestion. He has helped me wrench on many vehicles. We are not physically able to do it right now and I honestly dread the thoughts of breaking off rusty bolts and heading down rabbit trails. We have a reputable off-road shop here in Billings and they will be the first I will every pay to do this and I have been doing this for 22yrs. No shame on my part.

Click to expand...

Then your budget is bonkers... gonna pay 1300 just to install a standard 3.5" -4.5" lift

Mudshack said:

I just ordered the Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Ride with rear leaf springs. I ordered it withOUT shocks. I ordered Fox 2.0 shocks instead for all 4 corners. I will probably end up ordering a control arm drop kit before the intall.

Click to expand...

Ok nice... thats a good start. Most of the RE super ride kits I'm seeing dont include adjustable upper control arms nor an adjustable trackbar. Both are hugely needed ime. Double sheer trackbar will also need a new (frame side) trackbar bracket. I suppose stock upper CAs with lower CA drop brackets and adj CAs might get ya close, but the adjustability is paramount for dialing in pinion angle. As for the trackbar, any lift at all needs one imo (hell even stock!). Just basic math. You go up 3.5"s and the axle will no longer be centered with stock, and the bushings fail FAST... Bringing about death wobble in a hurry. Trust me on this.

Another MUST have (ime) is leaf spring shackles/ relocation brackets. For 3.5" lift a wishbone shackle set would do you good probably... nothing beats the sfr relocation brackets and choice of shackle imo. Just know, after lifting the angle goes to shit and even fox 2.0s wont fix the ride quality of a 90* shackle! Aftermarket typically run longer, so adjustable (as in multiple attach points) might be good to dial in total lift.
Also, extended brake lines a must if you got the kit with sway bar disconnects... and he has any intention to go offroad. You'll rip a stock line right off once you detach the sway bar and start getting some flex up front, ask me how I know :eeks1:

For 33s I've been in an xj with 3.73s, he had an 8.8 rear axle and zj v8 lp30... it was decent. I was surprised tbh.. not great but not God awful like the internet will tell ya. Id shoot for 4.11s personally, or 4.46s... I run 35s fine on 4.56.

If your son intends to continue to work on the jeep and keep the build going... a wj front swap for knuckles, brakes, and steering is hard to beat. Stopping power of the akebonos and the highsteer knuckles are MUCH better than the stock stuff for biger tires.
If not, maybe at least ditching the flimsy stock XJ steering for a v8 ZJ Y link would help with the bigger tires and add a little beef. I like stoptech pads and rotors for a bit better braking on stock or upgraded calipers.

This jeep business is a disease... glad you're passing it on to the Youngblood!! Lol

Guess I went to far? Shut the thread down? Bummer...

To far, dont bont believe the internet. Your spot on.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

To many softies on the interwebs....

Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk

I thought it useful info. Some of it, I will differ on. Still, I have CORE control arms on my 2" lift. Yes, on a double sheer track bar. On the Gearing, I'm on 4.10s with 32-33s. OK on flat ground, and did OK on light wheeling. I was planning on 4.30s. Going with 35s to 36's, on the next build.
I do have the WJ BBs on both of my XJs. The cross over steering and the OTK trackbar are great. My steering is under though.
Guy probably was searching for info. Made his decision, then didn't come back. Hope I'm wrong. A lot of info on this board. Really influenced my present build.

Where do 430 gears come from

35 is okay with 4.88 would could be better with 513 538s but that requires a d44 swap.


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Evan03 said:

Where do 430 gears come from

35 is okay with 4.88 would could be better with 513 538s but that requires a d44 swap.


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-f888430
For a Ford 8.8, but dana 30 and others are available.

4.30's are a bit odd of a choice. Also, I think gear selection depends on a some different factors. I go by Grim Reapers gear calculator.
Presently, for my next build, I have a Ford 8.8 and searching for a Dana 44 Wrangler Rubi front housing. I'll have to check RPMs. Also, if I can go 4to1 on the transfer case. Later in the build, I plan on an LS swap. Still, a lot of this I do not have much off roading. I still look at some DD and highway traveling.