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Replace Fuseable Links with Fuses

HodgePodge

NAXJA Member #987
So.. There I was driving up a hill and all of a sudden the engine died. After rolling backwards to a stop, thank you tree, we cranked it again to get it started and it just cranked. No start! Then we troubleshot, no fuel pressure, checked voltage ~6volts at pump figured it was a dead pump because it didn't come on. Dropped tank, replace pump no go, so I get yanked out. Come to realize the problem was a 60% blown fusible link that created resistance on the line and dropped it to about 6 volts (87 pre-ballast resistor)
CIMG0083.jpg

(Seemed too boring without a picture)

So we just cut out all the fusible links and wired them up and everything is working awesome. But I don't want to run it like this.

Now for the question, I'm looking for some information on replacing the links with a fuse block. Basically what do you think I should use amperage wise for fuses? I tried looking up information on what gauge the links were to cross reference the max amperage, but couldn't find anything.

:dunno:
Hodge
 
I do believe the newer XJs are all on fuses and not fusable links. Might just check that out. I think there are 60 amp Maxi fuses used too.

hinkley
 
Well here is what I get when I cross reference Fusible link color to Fuse using 88 and 2000 FSM:
Code:
                     Fusible link    '00 fuse amperage
PCM/Fuel Pump relay   ORG or GRN      15A
Head Light Switch     RED or GRN      30A
Fog Light Relay       GRN             15A
Latch Relay           ORG             None
Radiator Fan Relay    GRN             40A
Ignition Switch       GRN             40A
Alternator            BLUE            10 Gauge Fusible Link
I wish the old wiring diagram was as nice as the newer ones. Would be easier to find the amperage limitations of the wire :rattle:
 
I too would like to know if there is an elegant...ah I mean cool way to install a fuse block and rewire the fuseable links. With-in the last four years my '89 Laredo has been towed five times to the garage because it would not start...and all the times it turn out to be blown out fuseable links. The garage installs in-line replacable fuse holders which is ok but I don't know how they figured out the amp rating and the wiring looks ugly. Would be nice to find fuse sizes and install a fuse block.
 
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Here is the hidden problem. Fusable links are kind of the ultra slow version of a slow blow fuse. Normal fuses blow pretty quick when exposed to excessive current. Slow blow fuses will take the current for upwards to a minute depending on the type and rating. The fusable links take a far higher level of abuse before burning. The problem I have seen with fusable links is that they deteriorate over time. Water and battery acid fumes cause corrosion, which in turn limits their current carrying capacity. Vibration is also an enemy to the links. If you go with fuses, make very sure you have a ton of replacement fuses because you will most likely need them. Personally, when I swapped wiring harnesses, I bought good fusable link wires and rewired that portion of the circuit with soldered and sealed ends.
 
Johnny v: I'm looking at getting the hella Relay block to throw my relays in and clean it up. I was also looking at their fuse block, fairly reasonable price, and waterproof/splashproof.http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/PDF/ElecProd2.pdf

Old_man: I will be taking in the 1.5 rule. Take the max amperage of the wire and multiply it by 1.5, as most electrical components have a short startup amperage higher than they are labeled. This should help with those issues I hope.
 
Sounds like a plan, just see if you can get a slow blow type of fuse. Don't even know if they are available in the plug in types.

http://www.partsexpress.com has a good selection of wiring blocks and fuse related crap pretty cheap.
 
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