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New guy build-The Family Truckster

That front end looks great -- What's going on with the spring plates?

Thanks! The lower spring plates are flat with some 4” DOM tubing that fits inside the spring to locate it. The spring will always have tension on it so no mechanism “hold down” is required.
 
Actually is was asking about the rear plates in the pictures -- I did re-read your post and see that what you added are intended to be shock mounts

I'm interested to see what you have in mind back there -- I would think that mounting the bottom of the shocks to the top of the spring plates would make for some pretty short shocks -- I'm sure you've got something in mind...
 
Actually is was asking about the rear plates in the pictures -- I did re-read your post and see that what you added are intended to be shock mounts

I'm interested to see what you have in mind back there -- I would think that mounting the bottom of the shocks to the top of the spring plates would make for some pretty short shocks -- I'm sure you've got something in mind...

Shocks are 14” travel King 2.5”s. They will extend through the floor and attach to the interior cage. I will panel in the holes with some 18ga sheet metal.
 
Thanks! The lower spring plates are flat with some 4” DOM tubing that fits inside the spring to locate it. The spring will always have tension on it so no mechanism “hold down” is required.

tension ? which springs ? tension on the front springs is hard to do unless you have hold downs up top and on the bottom.

front will usually be in compression, unless you really flex out, then it can be in nothing, no compression, and no tension.
 
tension ? which springs ? tension on the front springs is hard to do unless you have hold downs up top and on the bottom.

front will usually be in compression, unless you really flex out, then it can be in nothing, no compression, and no tension.

Yes, compression, not tension. My front set up is totally different from a stock XJ. There are limit straps preventing the axle from drooping down to far and unloading the springs. Even when fully flexed out the spring will still have about an inch of compression holding them in place.
 
Yes, compression, not tension. My front set up is totally different from a stock XJ. There are limit straps preventing the axle from drooping down to far and unloading the springs. Even when fully flexed out the spring will still have about an inch of compression holding them in place.

Gotcha....

post 80 shows your setup I guess, not sure why you say it is totally different from a stock XJ.........it's still a 4 linked coil spring solid front axle setup that uses a track bar......

seems just like an XJ to me.........just with bigger/better parts.......:cheers:
 
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Gotcha....

post 80 shows your setup I guess, not sure why you say it is totally different from a stock XJ.........it's still a 4 linked coil spring solid front axle setup that uses a track bar......

seems just like an XJ to me.........just with bigger/better parts.......:cheers:

Different in terms of the spring location on the axle, placement/length of the control arms/track bar and steering. Same basic design concept, just tweaked to maximize travel.
 
One step closer! This is the first project I have had where I actually have every single part to get it road worthy. Just need more time to finish it. Front end just needs calipers, coil springs and some fender trimming.

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The entire front suspension is together minus the brake calipers. I need some different fittings to adapt the calipers to the -3AN brake lines. It sitting a little taller than I really want, but I going to see what it's like once it is on all four wheels.

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Most “Jeepspeed” springs range from 220 to 250. The whoops will tell the story though.

Huh. Must be a combination of stiffer shock valving and the fact that there's a metric shit-ton more unsprung weight on a Jeep than an IRS buggy. I run 350 over 250 on my 1350lb buggy (900lbs on the "axle", motion ratio is just over 1:1) with 16" of travel, and will still use the stops (foam progressive rate) a little more often than I like.

My XJ is running net 170 in-lb and it is quite familiar with the stops if I try to get jiggy with it. :D
 
Dammit, can't edit. 350 over 250 is net 146. Using simple math on weight:spring rate, you'd end up with 337 in-lb effective rate to keep the same bottoming resistance at the same travel (I'm running 33% droop, most Jeeps are probably 50%-ish or more), but this doesn't take into account the couple hundred pound difference in unsprung weight.
 
Dammit, can't edit. 350 over 250 is net 146. Using simple math on weight:spring rate, you'd end up with 337 in-lb effective rate to keep the same bottoming resistance at the same travel (I'm running 33% droop, most Jeeps are probably 50%-ish or more), but this doesn't take into account the couple hundred pound difference in unsprung weight.

The stiffest PAC “Jeepspeed”front spring is 250. Even with the 235 springs, I would like it to sit a littler lower, but I need the bump travel. I guess it just working within the conflnes of a stock spring config.
 
The stiffest PAC “Jeepspeed”front spring is 250. Even with the 235 springs, I would like it to sit a littler lower, but I need the bump travel. I guess it just working within the conflnes of a stock spring config.

Roger. Didn't realize they ran such soft rates. I've seen those guys in action, and they do pretty well given the inherent design compromises of a Lake Tahoe cruiser turned desert racer will see, so I can't argue with results. :D
 
Did some work on the ol' truckster. Got the brakes all installed and bled and set the steering stops. The banjo fitting is limiting my steering a little bit. Anyone ever drilled and tapped a brake caliper for a new feed/banjo location?

Started work on the steering box sector shaft support. XJ's are notorious for ripping the box off the frame. I added front stifferners on the frame, made a new spacer out of 3/16" steel with .250" wall bolt bosses and the sector shaft will be supported by this cross member. I'm hoping to have zero issues.

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As long as it’s thick enough to tap, I don’t see a problem. We’ve used the downfacing bleed port on universal 4 piston calipers for the brake lines, and that’s probably more out of position than anything you’re trying. Just make sure you can still bleed it.
 
As long as it’s thick enough to tap, I don’t see a problem. We’ve used the downfacing bleed port on universal 4 piston calipers for the brake lines, and that’s probably more out of position than anything you’re trying. Just make sure you can still bleed it.

I figured, I'll look at relocating the banjos once I have it up and running. I really want to get this thing to a point where I can actually drive it. It hasn't been out of the garage in almost 2 years :bawl:
 
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