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Broken door-hinge welds: cheap n easy fix!

<Update>

It finally got warm enough to get my fender back on, and I discovered a little wrinkle.

There was originally a tab tacked onto the body just below the hinge. I thought it was unused, and since it was right where I wanted to put my bolt hole, I snipped it off...

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Well, it turned out that tab was one of the ones used to mount the fender. Without it, there is a bit more play in the fender. Not a lot, but a little.

So the way I figure it, there are three courses of action.

(1) You could reposition that bottom hole to work around that tab. I'm sure it could be done, but to see exactly how and where, I'd have to tear it all back apart. And sorry guys, I'm just not that interested... :D

(2) You could make up a new tab that mounted under that bolt head. Just a small piece of light-gauge sheet, bent into an "L", with a hole in each leg.

(3) You could ignore the whole thing, because your rig is already rusting to pieces in the driveway, and a little play in the fender really won't be noticed.

I chose number three.

But I thought I'd mentioned it, so anybody that might try my fix can decide for themselves, and adjust accordingly...

Robert
 
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Worked like it was made for it!

Thanks for the idea. I thought I was going to have to pay to have it fixed!
 
Not to drag up an old thread, but I ran across this and think I want to go this route for fixing my sagging doors.

As for the backing plate, if you move the bottom hole towards the door opening alittle, you can clear the fender mounting tab?

As for mounting hardware, you just used a grade 8 bolt, flat washers and a locking nut?

Lastly, this is a fix for the upper hinge, correct? What does your lower hinge look like?
 
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Not to drag up an old thread, but I ran across this and think I want to go this route for fixing my sagging doors.

Heck, yeah, drag up an old thread: It shows you're searching, and we LOVE guys that search!

As for the backing plate, if you move the bottom hole towards the door opening alittle, you can clear the fender mounting tab?

I "think" so (are you asking, or suggesting?), but I didn't bother to tear it all apart again to check.

As for mounting hardware, you just used a grade 8 bolt, flat washers and a locking nut?

There are no nuts: I drilled and tapped (threaded) the 1/4" plate. The bolts just thread into it.

There's no way to hold the nut in place on the backside to even get the bolt started into it, much less to get it tight.

You could tack weld the nut on the back, and I was going to do that if the threaded plate didn't hold, but it held great.

Lastly, this is a fix for the upper hinge, correct? What does your lower hinge look like?

My lower hinge looks fine. I "assume" the same fix could be used on it, but you might need to play around with the size/shape of the plate.

I doubt the lowers will need it, though. When the door opens, it pulls the upper hinge away from (off of! :D ) the body, but it pushes the lower hinge inward.

The lower hinge doesn't see anywhere near the abuse that the upper does.

Good luck with it, and fire back if you have questions!

Robert
 
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I "think" so (are you asking, or suggesting?), but I didn't bother to tear it all apart again to check.

Good luck with it, and fire back if you have questions!

Robert

For the lower hole, both. Also, what was the thickness of the plate?

I ask, because I sent the pics to a guy I know, who custom fabs jeep parts on the side, and he's going make a set for me (and possibly start producing them as a kit).

EDIT: Duh, you answered my last question already. Thanks man.
 
Well, the answer was, "Um probably."

You'd really just have to get in there look. I'm sure there is room, but since I haven't done it, I won't say I "know" that there's room.

As for mass-producing them, we did talk about it over here.

The problem is getting all the holes lined up perfect.

I drilled the jeep body, then used that as a template to drill the plate.

If you did the plate first, I think it might be a bear to get the holes in the body perfect.

Robert
 
Well, the answer was, "Um probably."

You'd really just have to get in there look. I'm sure there is room, but since I haven't done it, I won't say I "know" that there's room.

As for mass-producing them, we did talk about it over here.

The problem is getting all the holes lined up perfect.

I drilled the jeep body, then used that as a template to drill the plate.

If you did the plate first, I think it might be a bear to get the holes in the body perfect.

Robert

My idea is this. With the plate drilled, overlay it on the hinges and get your hinge bolt holes lined up. Line the hinge/plate assembly up on the body and drill holes in the body that matches.

In my case because the hinges are still technically attached to the vehicle. Remove the doors & fenders. Overlay the plate on to the hinge and mark your holes for drilling.

Once the hinge is drilled, use an angle grinder, die grinder, dremmel, whatever to remove the hinge from the body. Grind the body and the hinge to get rid of any rust/welding residue.

Bolt old hinge to plate and line everything up. Mark the holes from the plate on the body and drill. Once the holes are drilled, unbolt the hinge from the plate. Mount the plate inside and bolt the hinge to it.

Or hell, trace the plate on some cardboard and use that as your drilling template.

For one off fab, you way is probably easier. For prefabbed parts, it can be done with minimal hassle.

Thanks for all your help & detailing your project. I think I've got enough to do what I need to do.

Do you mind if I detail my repair in the same thread so that all of the information is in one place (being as my repair will basically be a clone of your's)?
 
Nice write-up! quote:Like many XJs (especially the two-doors) my driver's door has sagged badly for years.
One q. what is the differents in size (width) of the front door of a two-doors XJ and a 4-doors? :dunno:

'92 XJ
 
Width? The doors are longer (and heavier) which puts more strain on the welds.

If I had to guess, I'd say the 2 door models had doors that were probably 6 to 10 inches longer than the front doors on a 4 door.
 
Width? The doors are longer (and heavier) which puts more strain on the welds.

If I had to guess, I'd say the 2 door models had doors that were probably 6 to 10 inches longer than the front doors on a 4 door.

Yep, ten inches.

Measured while wheeling with a four-door friend this weekend. (Yeah, it's a four-door, he's still an okay guy... :D)

His front door, at the body line, is 39". Mine is 49".

Robert
 
Do you mind if I detail my repair in the same thread so that all of the information is in one place (being as my repair will basically be a clone of your's)?

Well, sure... If you've got anything to add, post up.

Don't know that we need to just double-post everything, though.

Robert
 
Thanks for the post! Im having some problems understanding exactly how you knew where to drill the holes for the actual hinge onto the plate. Im interested in doing this project but im worried about messing up the holes for hinge. I guess i dont understand how you know the exact position of the hinge with the original mounting place cut away. If someone could explain that in a little more detail it would be much appreciated
 
My guess is that he bolted the plate in, then closed the door and shimmed it to where it was supposed to be and marked where the hinge ended up, but I could be wrong.

PS - nominating this for FAQ section/sticky
 
Oh! And the only spec that really matters is that the hinge "finger" is vertically aligned with the lower one, and 12-1/4" (on center) above it.

Obviously, it doesn't really matter where the plate sits, so long as the hinge ends up where it needs to be.

Robert

Here is where he explaines how to align the hinge.
 
Thanks for the post! Im having some problems understanding exactly how you knew where to drill the holes for the actual hinge onto the plate.

I thought I explained it, but rereading it, I did gloss right over it. Sorry.

My guess is that he closed the door and shimmed it...

Close. I did drill the hinge first, then I just measured the distance between the door-side hinges (12.25" on center) and used a torpedo level and a straightedge to get the hinge positioned that distance up from (and plumb to) the lower hinge. Then I marked, drilled, and tapped the plate to suit.

If I did it over, I'd use a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to hold it in place. I didn't have any handy the first time, but that'd be the easy way.

Good luck with it, and lemme know how it turns out!

Robert

<Edit> Damn, Hugo beat me to my own writeup!
 
That a really good idea. I have a 2dr and at work one day a strong gust of wind blew the damn driver door off. I work pipeline so I got one of the rig hands to weld it back on. :spin1:
 
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