I decided to run manual air valves to contol my ARB's to eliminate the dependency of electric/pneumatic switches. I've seen too many instances where a failed solenoid renders an ARB worthless on the trail, and I wanted to keep it simple. I also decided to run DOT poly 1/4" OD tubing which is stronger and more durable than the ARB 5mm blue tubing, plus available about anywhere if a repair is needed. I also carry some spare tube and push-lock quick connectors. If you route the tubing properly and protect it against chaffing, trail repairs should be rare.
Here's a shot of the ARB tubing setup (top) to connect to the diff fittings, compared to the setup (bottom) using 1/4" poly tube. (the ferrel and collar were discarded ) I used a 90* push-lock fitting at the diff to minimize the potential for binding. Push-lock couplers make for easy install and easy repair, if needed. All fittings were purchased from EVCO in SLC, UT.
Fuzzy rear diff shot showing how the fittings connect
As a review of how I plumbed the D30 ARB, drilling and tapping the stock diff vent hole to accept a 1/4" pipe x 2.5" nipple and T fitting. This allows the small copper ARB seal housing tube to be routed out of the diff and through the 1/4" nipple, and the axle to vent out the top of the T.
Front diff with air tubing installed
With the air tank and axles plumbed, I moved inside to install the switches. I used the factory wiring harness grommet located below the brake booster to double as a grommet for routing the 1/4" tubing and relay trigger wire for the compressor switch.
To control the lockers, I selected these Clippard 2 position poppet valves PN-MJTV-3 with 1/8" NPT fittings, which accept 1/4" OD tubing. I sourced these from Raumland Systems USA in Midvale, UT.
www.raumland.com and they cost about $15.00 each.
These valves have IN, OUT and EXHAUST (vent) ports so they effectively function exactly like the ARB electric/pneumatic solenoids and electric switches do, but eliminate the multiple potential points of failure. Shown here with 90* swivel push-locks and a straight push-lock on the rear.
I decided that I wanted my ARB switches (technically valves) out of the way but easily accessable, so the area on the console, just in front of the 4WD shifter was selected. I can easily access them when in 4WD and 2WD and they are out of the way. I removed the console and drilled 2 holes to mount the switches side by side.
Rear view of the mounted switches, with push-lock fittings installed.
I wanted to be able to lock either locker up independantly, so I plumbed the switches accordingly. To reduce the amount of tubing I needed to route through the firewall, I used a couple of Y push-lock fittings to share the air supply IN and VENT lines. The vent fitting was installed under the hood.
I used these rocker switch covers to minimize the potential of accidental switch actuation.........(say that 3 times, fast).
Left engages Front, Right engages Rear. They've since been labeled.
To actuate the compressor relay, I use this low voltage switch from PepBoys. With the 2 Gal tank, I can lock and unlock both lockers more times than I can recall, without the compressor kicking on.