Theoretical shock mount-long ramble

Just a thought. I haven't been into modifying my XJ for long, but I've been using the search for new ideas and ways other XJer's have done things. I think I've seen about 10 different ways to modify the rear shock mounts for more clearance and the top mounts for more angle. I've also seen where the rear bump stops need to be added to when doing a lift to keep the tires from coming up through the wheel well. Why couldn't these two modifications be included as one? Instead of adding extensions to the stop, why not move it down on top of the springs instead of the spring plate and drill a hole front to back to pass a grade 8 bolt through for a lower shock mount? I was thinking a flat topped block welded to a plate of steel as big as the spring plate with the four holes for the u-bolts drilled through it, to take it's place. The block could be as high as the amount of lift added. Playing the "Devil's Advocate' I can see where there would be some side stress on the spring pack, but if the hole was kept as low as possible you'd take away the leverage it would have. For the top mount a frame stiffener running side to side up close to the body directly over the rear end would allow you to drill holes for adjustment/tuning. I was just trying to see if there was other possibilities for the shock mount that might be cheaper than paying someone to weld mounts onto the rear axle tube. It's just a thought remember. . .

Talk to Dirk at DPGoffroad, he just introduced the same thing you are talking about and it is adjustable per you lift specs...

Awwww. . . I was just on his site looking at the new radiators he's carrying. Didn't look around to see what else he'd added. Oh well, it was just a wild thought anyways.

Quick run to DPG and I see what you mean. Also can see a flaw in my thought as the stop comes down inside the spring pack. Don't run bump stops or at least haven't replaced what was once there. Still, why couldn't you have a block welded in the center of that plate he sells and bore it the length for a bolt. Doesn't look like the bump stop would be in the way.

One reason I wouldn't put the shock near the top of the spring pack is that you lose overall shock length and potential travel. I kept the lower shock mount on the axle tube and welded a plate to the spring retainer plate on top of the spring pack. It compresses the bump stop just right with 33's and cut fenders. Simple, cheap and effective. ORGS makes this part if you want to buy it.
mattk

mattk said:

One reason I wouldn't put the shock near the top of the spring pack is that you lose overall shock length and potential travel. I kept the lower shock mount on the axle tube and welded a plate to the spring retainer plate on top of the spring pack. It compresses the bump stop just right with 33's and cut fenders. Simple, cheap and effective. ORGS makes this part if you want to buy it.
mattk

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I agree I'd lose the over all travel if I kept the same top mount but with a shock hoop style upper mount going from one side frame to the other you'd be able to increase the travel since you'd be able to drill a top mounting hole anywhere along the length of the bar. I do like the idea of the bump stop though. DPG is carrying one also that allows you to mount different plates to dial in where the bump stop hits. Jason has a write up on it at his site.

Sure, you can move the upper mount inwards but then you loose damping ability. I'm just saying that that's a compromise you don't need to make.
mattk