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transfer case drain and fill plugs stuck frozen

iluv83vettes

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Houston
It's an NP 242 with the 10mm allen key plugs. I have soaked them in penetrating fluid for a few days, tapped on them with a hammer to try knock whatever is stuck loose in the threads and tried heating them up with a propane torch last night. I can't get them to budge. I can actually get the entire transfer case and transmission to turn (so a new transmission mount is also on the way).

I really don't want to strip it out and even with the nice fitting allen key, it is just turning the inside of the plug if I can get it to move. I already have the replacement plugs from NAPA (P/N 704-1048) to replace them with, so I don't need to be able to use them again, I just need to get them out without damaging the case.
 
I put a sawed off piece of allen wrench in there and whack it good with a hammer.

And/or heat it some, a heat gun is enough and then spray it with oil to quench it. The expansion and contraction sometimes (most always) breaks the bond. Also works really well with brake fittings.

A combination of both usually gets the job done.

Plan B is an impact driver with the appropriate allen head socket on it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver
Nice tool to have around, steel in aluminum tends to bond. Sometimes it is the only way to get stubborn screws out. I use it all the time on my motorcycle and things like starter solenoids. Impact drivers aren't usually very expensive, though they may be hard to find, one of those often forgotten old school tools that work.
 
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I've found impact drivers very helpful for screws, but never tried it for a transfer case plug. Make sure you are using a 10 mm hex. I use 1/2" drive Stahlwille hex drivers because they are hard and don't twist.
 
Heat and a cheater pipe usually works. I stripped a hex nut out once and welded a bolt into the rounded out hex. The heat from welding broke it loose using just a wrench on the bolt head.
 
I usually use an 18" ratchet to get them loose. How long of a ratchet have you been using?

Standard craftsman ratchet. I have a 24" breaker bar but can't find my 1/2">3/8" adapter.
 
I put a sawed off piece of allen wrench in there and whack it good with a hammer.

And/or heat it some, a heat gun is enough and then spray it with oil to quench it. The expansion and contraction sometimes (most always) breaks the bond. Also works really well with brake fittings.

A combination of both usually gets the job done.

Plan B is an impact driver with the appropriate allen head socket on it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver
Nice tool to have around, steel in aluminum tends to bond. Sometimes it is the only way to get stubborn screws out. I use it all the time on my motorcycle and things like starter solenoids. Impact drivers aren't usually very expensive, though they may be hard to find, one of those often forgotten old school tools that work.

I used my propane torch. I can't imagine a heat gun would be warmer. I sprayed it with pb blaster before I heated it up and then again right before I tried to loosen it.

When you say impact driver, are you talking about the old kind where you hit the back with a hammer? I was thinking about using a regular impact wrench but thought it might damage the case.
 
i'd be nervous whacking it with an impact driver. my luck i'd end up punching a hole in the case.
use heat on the case AROUND the plug. it will expand the diameter of the hole, heating the plug expands the plug in the hole. heating/cooling cycles should get them loose.
when i was a kid an old-timer showed me a trick where you take a wax candle stick and run it around the seized part after heating it. the wax liquifies and tries to penetrate the threads, and works to lubricate it once you get it turning.
this is my go-to trick for rusted leaf springs.
 
I've found impact drivers very helpful for screws, but never tried it for a transfer case plug. Make sure you are using a 10 mm hex. I use 1/2" drive Stahlwille hex drivers because they are hard and don't twist.

I got a 10mm hex driver from oreilly that you can use a 3/8" ratchet or whatever on it. It is twisting. The plug inside is.
 
Heat and a cheater pipe usually works. I stripped a hex nut out once and welded a bolt into the rounded out hex. The heat from welding broke it loose using just a wrench on the bolt head.

I'm about to the point of welding a bolt with a double nut on it in there.
 
Sorry, I don't know how to quote multiple people in a post.

I didn't have a problem getting them out when I put the SYE on it a couple years ago and it looked like they hadn't been taken out ever with the condition of the fluid.
 
I think you are more likely to get it out with less damage if you use an impact gun. I would dial down the torque initially then gradually increase it until it breaks free. I wonder if anyone put red Loctite on the threads.
 
I think you are more likely to get it out with less damage if you use an impact gun. I would dial down the torque initially then gradually increase it until it breaks free. I wonder if anyone put red Loctite on the threads.


I put them in when I did the SYE. I didn't put any locktite on them. Clearly it would have been a waste to.
 
Worst case situation you split the case halves. Let your ATF drain out and remove that cover with drain plugs remaining. Same at a Pay-N-pull route finding one that you could remove the plugs from, bolt on and start over.
 
I'm about to the point of welding a bolt with a double nut on it in there.
I had a similar problem owing to a previous owner's mangling, and solved it by putting an allen wrench into the remains of the plug and then lightly welding it to the remains of the plug to keep it from slipping out. It was just enough to do the job. Needless to say, I tossed the plug when done, and replaced it with the nice one from an older version, which has a huge 30 mm. external hex.
 
As others have said.. A little heat around the plug hole with a propane torch and they come out smooth as butter.
 
As others have said.. A little heat around the plug hole with a propane torch and they come out smooth as butter.

How long do you keep the propane on it? I had my torch on there for about 5 minutes.
 
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