• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

XJ to WJ Disc Brake Conversion Advice Needed

stleus

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Washington
Hello, Pick Pull is running a brake rotor caliper sale next week and I was thinking about doing a WJ front brake conversion on my 2000XJ. My XJ has a RE 5.5 long arm kit with 31's and I use it to haul around my boat. The brakes are really bad for my needs/build.....my question is, can I just swap out my XJs knuckles/brakes for the WJs without affecting anything else. I don't want to change anything in the steering department. Will my current steering components mate to the WJ knuckles/ball joints? Does my lift play into this at all? Thanks

I already gathered the parts for the rear upgrade from a JK
 
The arm on both knuckles for the cross-bar is slightly lower on a WJ knuckle and the TRE taper is still from the bottom side, increasing the TRE angle at both ends more than it already is. With droop, eventually the TRE will reach its limits, which certainly isn't good. Drilling out the hole in the knuckles and installing inserts to flip the taper to the top will get you less TRE angle than you have now. The linkage up to the steering box should clear the upper arm on the PS knuckle, but worst case cut if off. I've read other people saying its possible but I'm not sure at 5.5", long arms and y-link steering. Assuming you're still using y-link style steering that is...
 
The lower ball joint needs replaced with one for a WJ. I believe the TRE tapers are the same. I did a fitment at the PnP many years ago. As to the angles mentioned above, I can't say either way. I went with GM 1-ton cross over steering and OTK trackbar on the two WJ Big Brake conversions I did.
 
Hello, Pick Pull is running a brake rotor caliper sale next week and I was thinking about doing a WJ front brake conversion on my 2000XJ. My XJ has a RE 5.5 long arm kit with 31's and I use it to haul around my boat. The brakes are really bad for my needs/build.....my question is, can I just swap out my XJs knuckles/brakes for the WJs without affecting anything else. I don't want to change anything in the steering department. Will my current steering components mate to the WJ knuckles/ball joints? Does my lift play into this at all? Thanks

I already gathered the parts for the rear upgrade from a JK

Are set-up's are close to the same (RE5.5/LA's) running the WJ/KJ brakes. I run a factory based steering (Currie Currect-lync) in the stock location for about 5yrs now without a single issue.
 
At 5.5" the upgrade is full wj steering over the knuckle along with a matching track bar. A side benifit might be slightly better braking.
Adjusting rear brakes could potentially increase current braking performance dramatically.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
I did the WJ swap on my 99. I did a custom track bar and steering set up. Part of the benefits of doing the WJ swap is getting a better steering set up. That's one of the main reasons to do it and get rid of the stock weak components. If you don't want to change the steering, just put some better pads, such as Black Magic, and try that.

Long story short, you are going to have to address your steering in some way. The WJ set up is nice, but more work than you think. You have to weld on the spacers to the knuckle, ball joints from a WJ, proper wheel bearings, different rotors, and steering. Depending on the steering set up, you might need to address the track bar, too.

Sounds like RCP's set up might be the way to go if you're set on the swap. However, the Currie Currect-Lync is pricey.
 
Sounds like RCP's set up might be the way to go if you're set on the swap. However, the Currie Currect-Lync is pricey.

I just wanted the brakes and I ran a totally stock set-up before I switched to the Currie (my stock set-up was all bent up after years of abuse).
 
let's not forget that the WJ uses 5 on 5 bolt circle like the JK does. So wheel swap is a must or using adapters. Just my 3 cents worth

That's not what you have to do with a WJ swap. You use a unit bearing from a 99+ XJ, or I think one out of an early TJ. I'd have to look up the part number. You don't use a WJ unit bearing.

You then use either a pre-drilled WJ rotor from Iron Rock Off Road. Or do what most people do and drill out a WJ rotor with the XJ pattern. It's easy to do and no adapters or change of wheel is needed.

However, some 15" rims won't clear the WJ calipers, so a wheel swap or spacers may be needed, but not because of bolt pattern. You can keep the same 5x4.5 bolt pattern both front and rear.
 
I just wanted the brakes and I ran a totally stock set-up before I switched to the Currie (my stock set-up was all bent up after years of abuse).

Just curious. Did you go over the knuckle or under? Did you have to use inserts/ream, or are the stock TRE's the same taper?

I used 1 ton TRE's and had to ream out the knuckle for the new taper.
 
I'd say with WJ Big Brakes, you are looking at $1,000 to $1,400. The cross over steering about $400. Also, you might have to either grind the calipers down for a 15" steel wheel, spacers, or go to 16" rims. On my first one, I had 15X8 rims with 2 inch spacers to get them to work. My present one, I tried 15 inch steels and they did bind. I have 16" aluminums rims for a 2000 XJ.
I would try as has been suggested, Black Magic brake pads, and make sure your rear brakes are working. Possibly do the KJ rear disc brake conversion. Also, make sure the surface where the steel plate of the brake pads slide on, does not have any dents in it. This is common on the XJs knuckles.
I have had my WJ knuckles reamed for the 1-ton Chevy TREs and have used the inserts. Mine is under. The TREs from Ruff Stuff, the boots are still good after say 5 years. Ones I got off of E-Bay, the boots cracked within a year.
 
Just curious. Did you go over the knuckle or under?

I'm still running the factory UTK set-up. The Currie set-up uses the stock taper tre's.

I'd say with WJ Big Brakes, you are looking at $1,000 to $1,400.
I have had my WJ knuckles reamed for the 1-ton Chevy TREs and have used the inserts. Mine is under. The TREs from Ruff Stuff, the boots are still good after say 5 years. Ones I got off of E-Bay, the boots cracked within a year.

My whole conversion was about $500 using the p-n-p knuckles and RA calipers.
 
70 bucks.
I have wj brakes, disc rear. They work better but not a ton better. My biggest improvement came when i adjusted rear drums.

Wj steering was a big improvement on my rig. I went over the knuckle.

I definitely wouldn't do wj stuff just for brakes.

I think all lifted rigs over 4" need better steering angles that wj knuckles provide. Brakes ehhhh
181cc69fb16e4a53d04bdf683646d1a0.jpg


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
1000-1400 is realistic
Ball joints, hubs, rotor, calipers, 1/4" spacers, knuckles, reamer, steering, track bar, track bar bracket, brackets, time, misc grinding wheels had, welder, someone elses time.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
1000-1400 is realistic
Ball joints, hubs, rotor, calipers, 1/4" spacers, knuckles, reamer, steering, track bar, track bar bracket, brackets, time, misc grinding wheels had, welder, someone elses time.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

I looked at Ruff Stuff's site: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/XOGMSTE.html
$280 for the 1-ton GM cross over.
I remember $80 for the reamer or so.
Ball Joints: I went with XFRs last time : $200-250 (??)
Hubs: Timken first time $80 each. I think SKF $100 each when I did it as a WJ 5 on 5.
Rotors: I remember $90 this last time each. I used 07-08 Libbys.
1/4 spacers: $30, welded on $60
Knuckles: PnP ?? say $50 to 60 a pair.
Brake pads: $30 to $100
Calipers: I bough some from the PnP say $30 each, then used them for cores $60 each.
Also, bought the brackets: $30 each
The first time, I had some other work being done. So, $$$ got wrapped into it.
This last time, I did the work. Still, I had some other work, such as frame stiffener, Ford 8.8, ZJ axles for 3.73 gears, and others. I think I had a $3K tab or more in labor. My welding needs to improve. I think most of the $$$ was for welding the frame stiffeners. Some of that was to take out or fold over the interior and carpeting.
Next build with have the interior taken out.
 
1000-1400 is if your doing work yourself.

I adapted my over the knuckle steering to the wj knuckles.

I quit putting a price list together. I have lots of time plus investment in welding stuff that i aquired over the years. And 1/4" plate by the 20' stick and other misc 20ft sticks of tube and bungs and stuff.

The cost to run cool wj brakes is very high for little gain.
You gota run the steering to make it worth or at very least over the knuckle steering

Under the knuckle wj steering would also work but then your pinching pennies to save a dime.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
https://www.stinkyfab.com/collectio...ucts/sfr-basic-wj-high-steer-big-brake-kit-xj
Just for a reference. I remember Ironman 4X4 having a kit. I do have the Stinky Fab OTK brackets and the Trackbar brace on my 2nd build. I used a Rusty's OTK on the first. I do have Ironman's OTK, and will use it on my next build. I'll probably try the Cav Fab axle bracket. Looks similar to the Stinky's.
My next plan is to go to a 13 inch diameter rotor. I think doable with the WJ/JK 17 inch rims I have. I think 5 on 5 rotors from a 2014+ Cherokee might work.
Not sure why I went under. I think at the time, it looked tight with the 15 inch rims.
 
When I do it, I'll use the StinkyFab kit. Takes a lot of the guesswork out.
 
https://offroadonly.com/product-category/u-turn/

Here's a kit, that was brought up a few month back.

Also, when I did my first one, the guy who did the fab work etc. really liked it. He wanted to do it in his Wrangle. Somehow he found a knuckle for the D30 that has the extra TRE attachment. I'm blanking on the maker. Its a $300 part. He bought his for $40.
Also, I wonder how much an OTK trackbar helps. I did run across a thread where that is what one guy did. OTK trackbar and stock steering. Said the OTK helped.
 
Back
Top