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Diff case speader?????

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
Im getting tired of fighting carriers in/out!I heard you can actually break a housing with a spreader?If you are using one how much are spreading the housing and how/where are you measuring?
 
Don't spread the housig more than .015" !!!! Measure with a dial indicator comparing right and left side.
 
Out is usually the rag method,in is usually the BFH method!
BTW:I havent had or used a spreader yet,Ive been doing it the hard way.Im thinking about making one if it will help!
 
Hey B. Please explain rag and wrench trick. Is the rag trick when you wrap a rag around the carrier and tie a knot and twist a rod or something until it pops out, kinda like a 1st aid tourniquit?:dunno:
 
get a rag about as big as a sock...

kinda ball it up a little, and let the r&P "eat" the rag as you turn the pinion.

you may hafta put a wrench on the pinion for more "persuasion" but the rag will push the carrier out as its being "eaten"...

works well, and I usually use it if the wrench-at-12oclock trick doesn't push the carrier out enough
 
What axle are you working on?
 
Im currently doing my D44 w/ ARB but Ive got a D30 to do next.
 
Don't use a case spreader, for install or removal. I rebuild diffs for Jeep and have found that when the housings are spread they never return back to the original position. Jeep is having lots of problems with the way Dana is setting up the diffs, mostly due to excessive carrier preload. Yes, this is from spreading the housings prior to installing the carriers and a poor set up. Use two big pry bars and work the carrier out this way you won't damage or distort your housing. As for install you should work the carrier into the housing about 75% of the way by hand and the rest of the way using a rubber dead blow hitting both sides of the carrier back and forth. If you need any more force than that, Your preload is too tight and the bearings will fail. Hope this helps. Chris
 
The first and only time I tried the rag trick, I ended up with a rag shredded to pieces and the carrier still in the housing. Then again, it probably would have helped if I had removed the carrier bearing caps :rolleyes: However even after I removed the caps it still shredded a rag and I ended it up prying out with a crowbar on the side of the carrier. Popped right out after that.

Ary
 
JP tech said:
Jeep is having lots of problems with the way Dana is setting up the diffs, mostly due to excessive carrier preload. Yes, this is from spreading the housings prior to installing the carriers and a poor set up.

I have been told the main problem with the Dana differentials is the fact that they set up the ring&pinion before they press the axle tubes into the centersection. DC has been trying to get them to change the way they assemble the diffs for a few years now and Dana has been reluctant to change their process. This is the main reason DC is changing over to American axles in the full size trucks and also why the next generation Grand Cherokee will now have "corporate" axles.


I do agree that the case spreader is a bad idea. I use the wrench trick whenever I can't just gently pry out the carrier. Most of the diffs I rebuild have bad bearings and the carrier can be removed by hand if it doesn't just fall out once I remove the bearing caps.


Bryan
 
Has anyone ever worked with Ford 9.75 (semifloat) rear end?

Carrier falls out by itself after removing bearing caps(just a gentle pull is needed). There is less that .001 of preload in 9.75 diff....Wild!
And shims are between bearing and housing, not behind bearing on the carrier.....Freaking weird setup!
Pit...
 
I've just set up my D60 front and D70 rear and i would like to see how you could do this without a spreader :D :D I have done a lot of axles right now and the best results i received when i used a spreader.

Just don't exceed the .015" spread and you will have a perfect bearing preload and a durable setup.
 
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