2000 XJ D-35 w/ABS Rear End Issue

[aviationstation]

Hello All,

We have a 2000 XJ Sport 4.0 4x4 with 95k that we just bought from some friends. It has a few minor issues, but has been dealer maintained throughout its existence (not sure if that is a good thing... especially if its a Ford).

Anyway, the rear end (a Dana 35 w/ ABS) is making noise/chatter in two ways.

1. When at a stop, if one were to crank the wheel and start driving, the rear end sounds like the diff itself (possibly the quasi-posi unit) is whining & shuddering a little. Straighten the wheel and it quiets down (no diff action).

2. While accelerating through, say, 35~50 mph, there is a distinct vibration coming from the rear end. Off the gas and it goes away. Its definitely at the rear end as we've had it on a treadmill to get an earful.

Otherwise is drives normally (not turning or accelerating). Last time I checked it would be hard to drive and not do either of those!

A 2003 dealer Repair Order for this XJ stated that they assessed the pax side rear axle and bearing as bad (which they swapped), and that some small particles of metal were visible in the diff oil (which they refilled with new fluid).

The u-joints are tight, the xfer case is tight and the trans/xfer/engine mounts are pristine. The Jeep is not lifted, the D/S is straight and balanced (Oceanside Driveline took care of that) and D/S to input shaft alignment is within <1 deg (based on an angle gauge) of a friends 2001 XJ 4x4.

My experience (mainly with 12-bolt GM's) is that the input shaft bearing might be toast and the diff itself is likely bad as well. Since I'm scheduled to take a 1,700 mile trip in this XJ (while flat-towing the 95 I'm donating to my sister in law) I want to be certain that it will make it.

So, here are the question(s)...?

1. How hard is it to replace the input shaft bearing (the slip yoke bearing in the rear end)? If a shop press is needed, would a 4~12 ton Harbor Freight unit work? (i.e. would the press push straight down into the rear end or is a hand air-hammer needed due to the angle)

2. How hard is it to get the old input shaft/slip yoke bearing race out of the rear end housing? What tools would be needed?

3. Is there a good aftermarket diff that will fit right into the D-35 rear end?

Thanks for your time & for checking out this post!

PS: I looked for a specific post regarding this issue but thus far have not found one on a D35 ABS, slip-yoke bearing problem. Sorry if this is a repeat of another post...


M Randolph
2000 XJ Sport 4x4
1995 XJ Sport 4x2
Fallbrook, CA

 

[DaffyXJ]

quote: the rear end sounds like the diff itself (possibly the quasi-posi unit)

If this is a Posi rear end, then it's most likely the clutch packs grabbing alittle when you turn. If a Limited Slip, add 4 to 7 ounces of slip modifier to the rear end and see if it goes away. Shop probably didn;t add any last time they were in there.

Vib's on accel? Could be a pinion bearing, but I'd think you'd notice more than just around a small speed range, like on decel also.

Anyway, the answer is, The slip yoke shaft bearing is actually called the Pinion Bearing. There are two of them. An Inner and an Outter.
For the Outter Bearing: Remove the yoke nut, the yoke, the oil seal, the oil slinger, the crush sleeve/or preload shims (one or the other) and the outter bearing.
For the inner bearing: remove the case cover, drain oil, pull C-clips, Remove the axle shafts, pull the carrier bearing end caps, pull the carrier, remove the pinion. A press will be needed to remove the inner pinion bearing from the pinion. I use a 12 ton small shop press, and either a 6 inch or 9 inch bearing splitter.
The inner and outter pinion bearing race's can be tapped out with punch and 3 lb jeep wrench.
To replace the pinion bearings you will essentially perform a new Ring and pinion gear set up on the axle. Too much to go into here.
This is not a small effort, to change out pinion bearings.
Make sure they are bad before you do/pay for all this work.

I'd go back and look at the drive line again, first. T-case output, drive shaft angles, ujoints. Ujoints are like 11 bucks and a half hour to change.

 

[aviationstation]

DaffyXJ,

Thanks for the reply! Good info that I can use. As for the diff, I'll give the posi fluid a try. I'll reinstall a new UJ & see if that changes anything. If not, I'll be off to the races to rebuild the pinion shaft bearing.

I'd be interested to know if there is a replacement diff (that replaces the old one; like an Eaton posi, etc) that is made for these Dana 35 rear ends...?

I wouldn't mind freshening up the diff with a newer, better unit (using the old housing/assy).

Thanks again!