Intake manifold removal question

So I am currently stripping down my 4.0 getting it ready to be pulled. I am about to pull the intake manifold and don't know what to do with the fuel rail. Should I just remove that and set it to the side then remove the intake manifold?

Thanks,
Jake Koeller

I didn't take it off when I pulled mine a few weeks ago. It comes out fine with the intake and exhaust manifold on.
The MAIN things are
Disconnect the battery (as all the manuals state). Or yank the battery, it gets in way of alternator a little.
Disconnect all the wires to injectors, sensors, etc.
Remove the AC bracket and flip the compressor up out of the way.
Remove the PS and flip it out of the way.
Remove the radiator (looks like it'll clear, but it wont).
Undo the 2 bolts holding the manifold to the exhaust.
Support the tranny (not Sonny and Cher's kid)
Get a reverse Torx 12 i believe to get the top 2 bell housing bolts (lotsa posts on those nastys)
Remove the rest of the bolts and work it out

jeepowner said:

I didn't take it off when I pulled mine a few weeks ago. It comes out fine with the intake and exhaust manifold on.
The MAIN things are
Disconnect the battery (as all the manuals state). Or yank the battery, it gets in way of alternator a little.
Disconnect all the wires to injectors, sensors, etc.
Remove the AC bracket and flip the compressor up out of the way.
Remove the PS and flip it out of the way.
Remove the radiator (looks like it'll clear, but it wont).
Undo the 2 bolts holding the manifold to the exhaust.
Support the tranny (not Sonny and Cher's kid)
Get a reverse Torx 12 i believe to get the top 2 bell housing bolts (lotsa posts on those nastys)
Remove the rest of the bolts and work it out

Click to expand...

OK that sounds good just 2 quick questions. First How do I disconnect the fuel line connecting to the fuel rail it seems like its snapped on their by some sort of connection. 2nd What did you hook the chains of the engine hoist to on the engine to pull it out?

thanks,
Jake

You can buy a special tool with a couple of fingers that go into the bell shaped part & push some internal fingers out of the way so you can slide the fuel line off the rail nipple. It's only a few $ in the tool section of most auto parts stores or harbor freight. Or if you have a couple of small screw drivers or a small needle nose pliers you can accomplish the same thing with a little effort.

Chains can attach to intake manifold bolts and some of the accessory bolt holes on the passenger side.

usually if you push inward towards the fuel line disconnects, they come right off....
i have the disconnect removal set, but usually dont end up using them because they come off so easily, guess its good to have em anyway.
make sure you replace them on reinstalltion, autozone or equivelant will carry them off-the-shelf.

jeepowner said:

I didn't take it off when I pulled mine a few weeks ago. It comes out fine with the intake and exhaust manifold on.
The MAIN things are
Disconnect the battery (as all the manuals state). Or yank the battery, it gets in way of alternator a little.
Disconnect all the wires to injectors, sensors, etc.
Remove the AC bracket and flip the compressor up out of the way.
Remove the PS and flip it out of the way.
Remove the radiator (looks like it'll clear, but it wont).
Undo the 2 bolts holding the manifold to the exhaust.
Support the tranny (not Sonny and Cher's kid)
Get a reverse Torx 12 i believe to get the top 2 bell housing bolts (lotsa posts on those nastys)
Remove the rest of the bolts and work it out

Click to expand...

These are all correct but I want to add that when disconnecting each injector's wiring label them or it may run funny when reassembled. Might also label each of the sensors wires when disconnecting them as well.

Labels, photographs and zip lock bags are your friends. Second on moving the battery out and away, far away, too easy to drop a wrench on it and have some nasty fireworks. Also removing the grill, header and rad/evap make it MUCH easier. Remove your windshield wipers too, the hood will go higher unless you are also removing the hood.

NVRwheels said:

OK that sounds good just 2 quick questions. First How do I disconnect the fuel line connecting to the fuel rail it seems like its snapped on their by some sort of connection. 2nd What did you hook the chains of the engine hoist to on the engine to pull it out?

thanks,
Jake

Click to expand...

Try and use 2 bolts on each side of the block. We used one on each side and bust one off in the head during the re-install.

On the older fuel lines, pre97 at least, just squeeze (with your fingers) the two plastic clips towards the each other and fuel line between them while pushing the two fuel lines together, than pull the fuel lines apart while holding the plastic clips tight (still squeezing them). Dropping the transmission some helps to get at hard reach areas.

Oh, and have fun with that piece$@#!&$#@!it engine mount bolt on the passengers side.

Gentlemen; I noticed in the picture that the motor, transmission and transfer case were pulled together.

Is it any harder to pull all pieces as one or does it really matter? Anything to watch for?

I will be pulling my motor shortly. Need clutch, pp plate, Headers cracked and a few other items.

cmb2008 said:

Gentlemen; I noticed in the picture that the motor, transmission and transfer case were pulled together.

Is it any harder to pull all pieces as one or does it really matter? Anything to watch for?

I will be pulling my motor shortly. Need clutch, pp plate, Headers cracked and a few other items.

Click to expand...

We did it both ways this past week on an engine swap.

It is much less work at first to pull the entire drive train as you do not need to fight with hard to reach bolts that hold the tranny to the engine. It does weigh more and is a little trickier to get out and balance in the final pull step with a mobile engine hoist. The 2x12 helps a lot.

Be sure to use 2 bolts on each side and a separate chain (2 chains) on each side to handle all the weight. One bolt on each side is not enough to lift it safely!

The trick is to not let the transfer case suddenly drop and hit the ground in the final step of clearing the bumper! We strapped the T-case to the wood board just before the last step of pulling it past the bumper.

Mike, thanks for info!

Yes much easier to pull everything together.