front axle swap from 2-to-1 piece

I have a 1990 XJ with the front disconnect dana 30. My 4WD light is on all the time and I am not even sure if the axle is connecting all the time in 4hi or 4lo. After replacing most of the vaccum lines I have decided to do something about it. I want to just swap the two-piece axle for a one-piece and I dont know all that much about it despite searching for answers. What year jeep can I find a one-piece axle that will work? Who makes a kit with the block off plate? What to do with the vaccum lines? And the most imortant one Has anybody done this before that can give me a brief summary of what it takes to make the switch?

A 92+ XJ should have it (YJ had disco all the way), and a TJ but I think it's been said not ALL 92 XJ's had the one piece. You can leave your original housing and fork in place, it won't contact the one piece shaft, it's much much smaller there, just take out the shift motor and tape up your wires so they aren't hanging around, and make sure you plug off the vac lines. It's a fairly easy swap, only hard part I think you'll have is the c-clip on your axle shafts, and the hub hehe, which isn't too terrible, maybe you'll get lucky tho and it's not c-clipped, I was expecting mine to be but it wasn't.

As for the process:
1: Get a jack and jack up and put it on stands
2: take the diff cover off and drain fluid, pop out c-clip if needed
3: take the wheel off
4: rotor and caliper (13 mil)
5: hub. This one's tricky, the cotter key can be a bugger if it's old, and then the spindle nut is rather large and might need some oomph to get it off.
6: get your shift collar housing off, motor, etc and start feeding the outer shaft out, remove collar, push the inner out.

Installation is simple enough.

Couple things to mention, make sure you install seals, part number for the pass. side is 471763. That's a Federal Mogul National p/n, should be able to cross that at any local part store. The caliper bolts are incredibly easy to break fyi. Good luck!

Also, here's a write up for a YJ, it's the same process.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30convert/yjconvert-1.htm

I would recommend loosening the spindle nut prior to dissassembly, especially if you have no impact, or if its been in there a while! The three hub retaining nuts can be a bugger too, they like to round off, make sure you have the right size socket 12pt

I used a 1/2" 12pt socket instead of the 13mm. Its just a TINY bit more snug and wont round the bolts off. I apply anti-seize to the bolt head first then tap the socket on. This will make life way easier as the rusty bolt and tighter socket combo are a bear to get apart after removing the bolt. As for the cotter pin: I just cut off the "bent over" side and pull it right out as you might as well replace them anyway. Spray a little PB blaster on them to make it a little easier. Things like PB blaster and anti-sieze are some of your biggest friends when working on these old rigs. Don't bother buying the little tube of it either. Spend the $10 and buy the plastic jar (about the size of a soda can) with the nice applicator brush built into the cap.

thanks for the help. Today I found a 94 cherokee in the junk yard that has a one-piece axle. Hopefully when I get the axle out it will be in good condition.

verticalspark said:

thanks for the help. Today I found a 94 cherokee in the junk yard that has a one-piece axle. Hopefully when I get the axle out it will be in good condition.

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They are usually pretty good. The ones you have to worry about are when it was an obvious trail rig and the splines may be twisted a little - don't even bother with that unless its for a spare.