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Heater hose sizes?

bigalpha

bigalpha

Moderator
Location
Tucson, AZ
88 RENIX, I6.

I bought 3/4" and 5/8" heater hose.

The 3/4" fits the bottom of the surge bottle, but is too big for the metal "T" connector. 5/8" fits the T but not the bottle.

What gives?
 
bigalpha said:
88 RENIX, I6.

I bought 3/4" and 5/8" heater hose.

The 3/4" fits the bottom of the surge bottle, but is too big for the metal "T" connector. 5/8" fits the T but not the bottle.

What gives?
Click to expand...

Easy - that's a "belled" hose from the factory!

Something similar up front - the hose going back from the thermostat housing is 5/8" ID, but the thermostat housing nipple takes a 3/4" ID hose. Go figure.
 
I was kind of thinking something like that, but it's nice to get clarification that I'm not totally crazy.

Do I just need to pre-stretch the 5/8" hose and get it wrapped around the housing nipples and be done with it? I don't want to clamp the 3/4" to the 5/8" housing nipples; it looks bad and just seems like I'll be redoing it in no time.
 
I did what you are trying once, and ended up spending twice as much on miss match hose adapters and clamps as I would have on a dealer hose kit. It is a real bastardized hose endings set up. It was designed to force people to buy $50 hose sets from the dealer in my opinion. :scottm:

Now that I have done it I can fix a single hose for about $1 on mine, but in the future on my daughters XJ I may just buy the dealer hose kit.
 
Not exactly the best of news. The cheapest I found the hose kit is $55 at TeamCherokee.

What types of connectors are suitable to be used in the cooling system and where do I get them at?
 
I think I ended up using RTV and clamping a 3/4" down to size the first time I did it.

When I did the copper heater hose mod, the 5/8" hose slips right onto 1/2" copper sweat tube. For the 3/4" junction, I sweated a 1/2" tube union onto the end, and that took the 3/4" hose neatly.
 
Bumper to Bumper carries the hoses individually, thats were I get mine locally. They are made by Gates. Not to pricey either as I remember.
 
bigalpha said:
Not exactly the best of news. The cheapest I found the hose kit is $55 at TeamCherokee.

What types of connectors are suitable to be used in the cooling system and where do I get them at?
Click to expand...

That is still about 1/2 of what I spent on hose clamps, stainless springs for the curved hose areas where I used regular non curved hose from a reel, and the straight hose mender odd size adapters to connect different sized hoses.

THe curved areas were the killer for me as I did not want the hoses to collapse from bending at the various curves like at the block connections.
 
Gah, stupid companies fleecing money from people.

Thanks xjtr, for the link. Looks like O'Reilly's carries Gates.
 
Ecomike said:
That is still about 1/2 of what I spent on hose clamps, stainless springs for the curved hose areas where I used regular non curved hose from a reel, and the straight hose mender odd size adapters to connect different sized hoses.

THe curved areas were the killer for me as I did not want the hoses to collapse from bending at the various curves like at the block connections.
Click to expand...

And you wondered why I redid all of mine in copper...

Granted, I had the copper lying about, but I think if you figured actual cost of materials, I'm still way ahead of buying moulded hoses or a dealer hose kit. Future replacements? About five bucks in bulk hose. Brutal!
 
I would think you could just pick up a hose barb splice with 5/8" on one side and 3/4" on the other at NAPA or a local plumbing supply. That and 2 extra clamps and you would be in business.
 
I just realized i bet you could scavenge the spring from the bottom radiator hose and use it for the hose corners, instead of buying new hose springs.
 
mnoeltne said:
I would think you could just pick up a hose barb splice with 5/8" on one side and 3/4" on the other at NAPA or a local plumbing supply. That and 2 extra clamps and you would be in business.
Click to expand...

That is what I did, works fine.
 
Hoo-ray. Somehow, one of the metal T's has developed a small, pinhole leak. This is just freaking awesome. Gotta love the way it all works out so nicely in the end.

What can I use to patch this tiny, tiny hole? JB Weld?
 
bigalpha said:
Hoo-ray. Somehow, one of the metal T's has developed a small, pinhole leak. This is just freaking awesome. Gotta love the way it all works out so nicely in the end.

What can I use to patch this tiny, tiny hole? JB Weld?
Click to expand...

I can't remember the type of metal thats made of but if its copper or brass then solder will work, just clean it up good. If its metal, then have it brazed/silver soldered. Most radiator shops can fix this for you.
 
I went ahead and solved my own problem, kind of.

The hole was kind of near the nipple, so I just ran the hose further over the T.

Now, I just need to figure out why I can't add more coolant. meh.
 
bigalpha said:
I went ahead and solved my own problem, kind of.

The hole was kind of near the nipple, so I just ran the hose further over the T.

Now, I just need to figure out why I can't add more coolant. meh.
Click to expand...

I posted on your SEC thread to remove the temp gauge sender from the rear of the head and fill it until it runs out. It also helps to elevate the rear of the Jeep about 1-2 feet above the front.
 
Yeah, I saw it. Is the fluid going to start draining from the surge bottle and such automatically when I do that?
 
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