• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

95 Valve cover gasket

We'll get a debate going here. Personally, I like the old cork gaskets. Obviously clean the valve cover and head surface well. Glue the gasket to the valve cover with gasket adhesive. Put a thin coat of grease on the other surface and snug down bolts carefully with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Next time, the head will come clean and you just have to scrape the valve cover surface. Or maybe it will remove cleanly and not even need to be replaced next time. The glue will keep the gasket from moving around.
 
Cork is good but I have a problem with over tightening them so i usually use the metal with rubber coating, I know they have a higher chance of leakage and i should use cork and not tighten them so much.

I did have a dodge shadow once that i replaced the head gasket on and the gasket kit i got didn't include the correct valve cover gasket. I didn't feel like running back to autozone and getting the right one so i filled up the channel for the gasket with Permatex "The Right Stuff" and i never had a leak.
 
I used RTV on both sides of a cork gasket and it's worked great for 4+ years now.
 
I use the Permatex caulk gun size Black RTV. That's it, no gasket. Best sealing that I have ever found if you follow the directions. I use that on all my valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, and the like. Holds up way better than cork/rubber. Think about it, how often do transmission cases leak? They are put together without gaskets. The OEM's had it right.
 
Back
Top