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Latest Destruction/Progress

Bronzewyrm

Bronzewyrm

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Independence,or
Well the top hat has started to RIP my roof "no bweno." It came off today. :( im sad.
i have a new way of mounting the rack to the brackets but the brackets are doing the dammage. so now i need to rethink my mounting system.

there are 5" tube in the bottom of tha rack "shown below" im thinking of running a peice of angle iron alon both sides of the roof, replaceing the factory roof rails. knoch it where the tubes land, weld it. face the angle iron inwards as so that i can remove it.
also i need to drill some holes or slots in the floor of the rack, so the air can escape. im also going to add a front rubber sweep to help block the air from going under it.

flex is now at 24" b4 the back tire lifts and i need a small amount of trim to do in the back. the front,---- i was a tard. i got ahed of myself and forgot to drill and install my hockey pukes in the front axle b4 me and my Bro slaped that bad boy in.(4:10s last month) "BUNK!"

sry so long just a good update! opinions alwase welcome and a new direction is great

thx for looking
BronzeWyrm

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Can't say I'm surprised really, that rack was ridonkulously huge.

You should sell that to someone with a Suburban or something and build something new with a little bit lighter duty in mind.

I sitll stand strong that tying into the drip rail works good. If you only do it in short 3" sections you'll rip that up too. I built one on nitrospeed's Jeep that spans almost the entire rail, and it works excellently.
 
WheelinJR said:
I sitll stand strong that tying into the drip rail works good. If you only do it in short 3" sections you'll rip that up too. I built one on nitrospeed's Jeep that spans almost the entire rail, and it works excellently.
Click to expand...
I agree, the drip rail is pretty strong if tied into it in multiple places. the factory rails would work good if the roof was thicker then 3 sheets of paper. any substantial amount of weight caves it in. but the curvature of the drip rails makes it a stronger mounting point:thumbup:
 
As has been posted above. The stock roof rack mounts are pathetic at best. They can be used for shear but not for weight.

You need to mount the rack from the gutters, they are far stronger and will support the weight of anything you would reasonably want to put up there.
Obviously the more tie-in's to the gutter the better but 2 or 3 on each gutter usually work just fine.

Michael
 
well theres a couple things about the size of the rack and the dammage that was insued.

it wasent the down force on the rack that caused the dammage. it was the upforce from the air getting betwen it and the roof, with no where to go. i belive the roofs are plenty strong. i had close to 600lbs in it id say, and it did no squashing. theres plenty of surface area to spred the weight. yes the sheat metal is week as hell but they would have never put a factory rack on them if it the roofs wouldent hold.

the lights are where my big delema is. i know the run i went wasent a night run. but belive me it would make u jelious comming down the trail at Midnight. i cant part with the light.

so im thinking pull the headliner agin and reinforce the sheatmetal betwene the inside roof suports. drill sevral holes in the floor of the rack, and install a rubber air sweep to the front of the rack to help block the air.
 
1. Well, it isn't an airfoil, so that isn't much up-force on the rack. It is more likely the weight of the rack (or load) pulling up when you go over bumps.

2. The roofs are NOT plenty strong.

3. 600lbs on a roofrack is stupid dangerous!!!!!!

4. The factory rack is designed to hold about 100lb, maybe 150lbs (double check my memory).

5. Mount the rack from the raingutters the way it should be mounted.

Michael
 
ok to all thoes ppl calling me stupid. i didnt pay for membership to deal like this....

annone ever stood on the roof? annone ever thaugt about how much force is on the roof just sitting there let alone driving down the road???? there are manufacture standords of sustanment fo force. if 100lb is all it will take nowon should be driving theese things.

guess ill shutup and do thing like i alwase have. Figure them out myself
 
hey man, i agree, do it how you want. its all just advice/opinion. you wanted everyones $0.02 and ya got it. you can cash it in now, or... toss it in the bin with the rest of the $0.02

I liked the rack. figure it out and make me one!... (i'll take gutter mounts tho ;) ) $$$???
 
Bronzewyrm said:
ok to all thoes ppl calling me stupid. i didnt pay for membership to deal like this....

annone ever stood on the roof? annone ever thaugt about how much force is on the roof just sitting there let alone driving down the road???? there are manufacture standords of sustanment fo force. if 100lb is all it will take nowon should be driving theese things.

guess ill shutup and do thing like i alwase have. Figure them out myself
Click to expand...

I appologize if I came across as calling you stupid. That was not my intent.
You don't have to take my advice, obviously. But can I recommend you do yourself a favor and call or stop in at any aftermarket store that sells racks (Thule, Yakima) for example. They can show you exactly what your stock rack is rated for weight. They can also tell you exactly what a aftermarket rack is rated for weight attached to the gutters. You have already proven to yourself with the failures that the stock mounts will not handle the weight.

Now, STATIC weight is NOT the issue. You can stand where you want on your roof (it can't handle the weight unless you are very careful where you stand or it will dimple. then try jumping up and down (your roof won't look the same when you are done) this is due to the DYNAMIC forces of the weight and it IS the issue.

Don't take my word, but do some more searching for others that have tried the same things you are talking about it. There are lots of them on here and all of them over time have found the same issues and have ended up attaching to the gutters.

Again, I am sorry if I affended you, I am just providing my experience.
Michael
 
well all and all i dident mean to take the talk to heart. but i do think there is some disscusion about the roof and the mounting. I appologize for bein a WHOHA!

I do total agree the the rain gutters ar a WAY stronger way of mounting. a feiw problems.

1. all the store bught mounts i found that i could use raised the total height of the rack. which as u can see is not what i need. and wouldent have been strong enough

2. there hella expencive i found none below $100"i built the rack for next to nothing" so thats not fesable when i can find used racks with the mounts, for around 200.

3. Fabb. i found no way or idea for fabbing my own rain rails/mounts. until i thaught of the latest setup.

Ant im not trying to be offencive by going here.... it is totaly the upforce on the roof riping the sheat metal. i drove 1/2 way home from sisters holding the thing down on the drivers side after it rattled itself loose on the trails. after i took it off i found 3 more mounts that were about to pop up. i havent had a load on the rack for months. i got a ltl trailer now.

all and all, Tec Thred to follow! ill pic and post all my mods there ez and should fix the rack/roof up nice. also explaining my $0.02 about the roof structure.

thx and sry :roflmao:
BronzeWyrm
 
Bronzewyrm said:
well all and all i dident mean to take the talk to heart. but i do think there is some disscusion about the roof and the mounting. I appologize for bein a WHOHA!

I do total agree the the rain gutters ar a WAY stronger way of mounting. a feiw problems.

1. all the store bught mounts i found that i could use raised the total height of the rack. which as u can see is not what i need. and wouldent have been strong enough

2. there hella expencive i found none below $100"i built the rack for next to nothing" so thats not fesable when i can find used racks with the mounts, for around 200.

3. Fabb. i found no way or idea for fabbing my own rain rails/mounts. until i thaught of the latest setup.

Ant im not trying to be offencive by going here.... it is totaly the upforce on the roof riping the sheat metal. i drove 1/2 way home from sisters holding the thing down on the drivers side after it rattled itself loose on the trails. after i took it off i found 3 more mounts that were about to pop up. i havent had a load on the rack for months. i got a ltl trailer now.

all and all, Tec Thred to follow! ill pic and post all my mods there ez and should fix the rack/roof up nice. also explaining my $0.02 about the roof structure.

thx and sry :roflmao:
BronzeWyrm
Click to expand...
Does your rack have a solid "flooring"? Like plywood or something? i dont understand how the wind is pulling it up so much? maybe cut some strips out to allow the wind to cut threw?
 
I bet the spelling police are having a field day with this thread...
Regardless, look at Yakima or Thule gutter mounts to get an idea of how they do it. That might help with your design.

~Scott

P.S. For the record, I had a hi-lift on my stock roof rails and it ripped 2 of the grommets out on one wheeling trip. I will NEVER mound anything to the stock rails again. Doesn't take much to pull them apart as the mounting into the roof is next to nothing if you ever look at how they actually work.
 
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