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driveline angle advise

G

goalieman24

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Maryland
Just looking for some advise on how my driveline angles look.
Jeep has a 3.5" super-flex kit w/ a rusty's T-case drop.
99, 8.25 rear.

Getting a few vibrations.... nothing extreme, but something I'd like to get taken care of.

T-case angle is 6*
Driveshaft angle 15*
Pinion angle 11*

Here's a few pics for reference. Let me know what you think.









Side note..
Is this where a balancing weight could have been/fallen off?
 
Was that driveline submerged in saltwater for a few years prior to you getting ahold of it? Wow.

I'd get another rear DL from the JY. Pretty cheap, should look better than that tetanus carrier you've got going there. Your rear diff pinion and t-case pinion need to match too, look into some steel shims for the rear leafs to get the angles closer, or go to a SYE and CV shaft out back.
 
fubar XJ said:
Was that driveline submerged in saltwater for a few years prior to you getting ahold of it? Wow.
Click to expand...

No kidding. apparently it was a rental car in New York before I got it... lots of salt I guess. But for 72,000 miles, I can't complain.

Would that rust be enough to cause an unbalanced driveshaft? Or does it take more than that?
 
i pulled on that looked similar to that off the ground and a jy in OH... and i thought it was just cause it was in the dirt... yeah your pinion angle needs to match your tcase output angle... basically so that the two yokes are in a paralell plane.
 
My main vibrations come when letting off the gas at around 45-50.

So decel vibrations, according to RE, are from pinion being too low... and to install shims to raise the pinion.
This doesn't seem right. At ~11*, does the pinion really need to be raised anymore?
 
goalieman24 said:
My main vibrations come when letting off the gas at around 45-50.

So decel vibrations, according to RE, are from pinion being too low... and to install shims to raise the pinion.
This doesn't seem right. At ~11*, does the pinion really need to be raised anymore?
Click to expand...


From the numbers that you gave us, you need to lower your pinion to 6*
 
Agree with getting the angle correct. If you still have a slight vib , you can alway duct tape a weight where you suspect one is missing and take it for a test. If its what you need then remove the tape and weld it on. Well you might want to see if you have any driveshaft left after you remove the rust.:shocked:.....Al
 
dgrigorenko said:
From the numbers that you gave us, you need to lower your pinion to 6*
Click to expand...

The numbers don't lie...

But wouldn't the decel vibrations say to raise the pinion? I've been looking around, and haven't found anything else that really causes them.

I'll most likely be replacing the U-joints, and trying to find a driveshaft in a little better shape... maybe that will help?
 
have you checked the pinion u joint?
if you are sure the output is at 6* and the pinion is at 11* then id drop the pinion down and start with a steel 4* and measure and trouble shoot from there.
 
As far as U-joints go... How important is it to get them with grease fittings on them vs. a non-greasable one?
The Spicer 153x is non-greasable, and can get it for $15... will these work well?






DoctorPhate said:
I don't know why everyone is so amazed with that... My XJ is exactly the same. My ranger is like that too. and so was my YJ
Click to expand...

Amazed with what??
 
I would go with greasable u-joints on a rear driveline. You see non-greasable ones on axleshafts and sometimes the front driveline, but the rear driveline is under power all the time. You want to be able to keep it lubed and purge the water and crud out of it.
 
pinion and TC should be within one degree of each other so all of you who said shim the pinion down to 6 degree's get a gold star. As for the u joint question I would recomend useing only greaseable u joints on anything its the spi 5-154x or neapco nea 1-0154.
 
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