• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Oil Filter L-adapter removal

XJ00RHD

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Mexico
My Oil filter right-angle adapter thingie is leaking something fierce, and rather than just replace the O-rings, I was thinking of going with a remote oil filter system to make the filter change easier, and to make o-ring replacement less cramped and thus more simple later on.
To do this, I have a series of questions, as I cannot find technical documentation to answer them. The best info I can find is here. (and I'm gonna steal his pictures)
I'm doing this to a DD and do not have a comparable block to play with and learn from, so I need to be sure I've got everything squared away ahead of time
1) What's the weird little tube that comes out of the block for? Can it be snipped with dikes or otherwise cut/pulled?
2) What's the diameter/thread count of the 'E-Bolt' that holds the whole kit onto the block?
3) What's the inner (or outer) diameter and rim width of the outer seal surface? (the big circular area where the large O-ring seals on the OEM adapter) Or, just what's the O-ring's size?

I'm figuring if the tube can be cut, just to use this 'custom spin on adapter' (assuming the O-ring dia. jives) and a length of threaded tube threaded into the block to form a post to make all this work. I'll add a cooler/temp gauge/filter from there, but this is the hard part IMO.

Opinions? Answers?
Mods: feel free to move this to modified tech, I wasn't sure.
Thanks!!
 
The "weird little tube" - at least on RENIX - is a roll pin used to generally locate the adapter. It can be pulled. If you want to verify it as such, look for a split seam down the length of the tube - at least, down the length you can see. If you see that split, go ahead and pull it.

The centre screw may be removed using one of three tools, depending on the era -
RENIX used a 5/8" hex, and a simple combination wrench will do.
Early HO used, I believe, a 9/16" or 5/8" hex socket - you can make a wrench by cutting off the tip of the appropriate hex key, and fixing it into a combination wrench.
Later HO used either a T-60 or T-65 (I don't recall which,) and you won't be able to use a conventional socket and socket wrench - cut the end off and weld it into a combination wrench.

Once you've removed the adapter, if you don't put it back, I'd like to see about getting the assembly from you (if possible) - elbow, nipple, and screw. Let me know, and we'll talk.
 
"..elbow, nipple, and screw. Let me know, and we'll talk.

5-90, that sounds like a chargeable felony in six Southern states!
 
Only six? Damn, I was trying for more...:smoker:

I could have forgot some, but at least six for sure! :jester:
 
Yeah, sure, if this works you've first dibs my friend. And I'm not so much worried about how to pull the screw, but what specification steel tubing I'd need to thread into the same hole.
I have no idea if the hole is the same 3/4-16 that the stock filter is. Do you?
 
Yeah, sure, if this works you've first dibs my friend. And I'm not so much worried about how to pull the screw, but what specification steel tubing I'd need to thread into the same hole.
I have no idea if the hole is the same 3/4-16 that the stock filter is. Do you?

Not yet - part of why I want the screw. I'm inclined to think so, but I just can't swear to it.
 
What remote kit are you thinking about getting? Amsoil has some good remote filter setups.
 
On a '96 4.0L - the dealer o-ring kit was about $6 or so.

I used a remote filter kit from Summitracing.com. The adapter just screws on in place of a oil filter, it came with several fittings to fit different threads included in the kit (several leftovers when finished). Kit made by perma-cool.com. see their catalogs online (both co.) for more info.

Also while you are in there is a good time to add oil cooler. (Add oil temperature sensor too, if wanted).

I think there are two different threads -older vs. newer Jeeps on the oil filters so check that for sure.

Good Luck,
o
 
The filters are different threads (RENIX is M20x1.5, IIRC, and HO is 7/8"-14,) but that's at the filter. I'm assuming you left the elbow in place and put the remote adapter on it?

I'm probably not the only one who would prefer to remove the elbow entirely and put the remote adapter right on the block, I just want to see if it's viable to do all around (that eliminates three orings - and three potential leaks.)
 
Yes, from stock oem, remove filter and screw on adapter.

Removing the oem elbow and o-rings would be a good improvement for sure.

I'm hoping to get by with maybe one o-ring change, or less, in the future, so just went with the kit.

Just thought the info might be of some use to OP.

o
 
Yes, from stock oem, remove filter and screw on adapter.

Removing the oem elbow and o-rings would be a good improvement for sure.

I'm hoping to get by with maybe one o-ring change, or less, in the future, so just went with the kit.

Just thought the info might be of some use to OP.

o

I'd like to do this too because I have already broke my oil pressure sending unit once and don't want to do it again!
 
I haven't DONE the mod yet, I want to completely eliminate the elbow, and e-bolt.
I don't want to use a kit at all, simply because none of them come with the nice low-profile spin on connector.
In place of the e-bolt I want to use a piece of steel tubing turned and threaded to match the e-bolt on one end, and match this 'custom spin on adapter' (any of them, I'll choose which one later) on the other end.
Essentially what i'm looking to find out is
a) is the seal size 2.5"
b) what dia/thread count/length pipe should I use (or make with diff. thread counts at opposite ends) to thread on the low profile spin on adapter
That's it.
Hopefully that's a better explanation
Doing this mod would allow for direct thread on hosing for temp/pressure monitoring, oil cooling, and remote filter(s).
Thanks!
 
The filter threads (renix vs HO) aren't necessarily the same as the threaded hole in the block that the E-bolt threads into.
Has that been verified?
 
So what would he have to do for that? Tap it out?

Nope. That's why remote filter adapters are usually a plate with two threaded ports - the centre port is opposite the pressure nipple, and feeds pressurised oil out to the filter setup. The off-centre port mates up with the feed from the filter, which then goes to the oil galleries and lubricates the engine. Drainback happens from the top of the cylinder head and the sides of the main & rod bearings.

Oil travels through the engine in the following order:
- Oil Pump
- Oil Filter
- Oil Galleries/Bearings
- Drainback to sump
 
On my 97 it was a T-55 and PITA to remove.
 
Back
Top