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locker problems...still

lilkuff

NAXJA Forum User
Location
gurnee IL
So I finally got a chance to look at the locker and everything looks fine. the thrust washers are in and the clearance is fine. I called the tech line and they told me that i need to get a center pin out of an early (CJ style) dana 30. This pin is solid unlike the XJ style that has the flat spots. Does this sound right? Has anyone had this problem before?
 
Shouldn't the locker have come with a new center pin? I had lots of problems with my C8.25 locker when the guy that installed it ground down the center pin instead of the ring gear teeth so it'd fit with my 4.56's. After replacing the pin and the active spacers, it was working fine.

I believe the clearanced pin creates too much slop in the locker and allows it to unlock when it shouldn't.
 
You bought a crappy locker and it has problems. Go figure! ;)

As it happens, I just had the chance to play with a used Genuing Gear quicklock for a dana 44. The center pin came with the flatspots..
 
Well i didnt buy it it was given to me and it didn't come with a center pin. the guy on the tech line said that the older style pin would fix the problem
 
That locker is on par with a factory trac-lok or GM gov-lok as fas as failure rate. 100% ticking time bomb


i had one in my 99 TJ and never had a problem and with 36in tires and a alot of skinny pedal then i sold it too a buddy of mine and he wheeled it for 3 years and it just now broke.:roll:
 
OK...I'm still not clear on what exactly the problem is. I put an ected locker in my Ford 8.8 rear end when I re-geared it to 4.56. Because of the larger ring gear, I had to grind (create a flat spot) the center pin to allow the axles to travel far enough in to get the c-clips on. The alternative to this mod is to grind the ring gear teeth.

I choose to modify the pin instead and have had no problems. If the pin is modified correctly, it is rotated one way to remove right axle, and 180 degrees to remove the left axle. When both axles are installed, the pin is rotated 90 degrees and the pin bolt is installed so that the full pin diameter is available to keep axles at the correct position. The mod might weaken the pin a little, but won't affect axle position or locker operation that I'm aware of.
 
OK...I'm still not clear on what exactly the problem is. I put an ected locker in my Ford 8.8 rear end when I re-geared it to 4.56. Because of the larger ring gear, I had to grind (create a flat spot) the center pin to allow the axles to travel far enough in to get the c-clips on. The alternative to this mod is to grind the ring gear teeth.

I choose to modify the pin instead and have had no problems. If the pin is modified correctly, it is rotated one way to remove right axle, and 180 degrees to remove the left axle. When both axles are installed, the pin is rotated 90 degrees and the pin bolt is installed so that the full pin diameter is available to keep axles at the correct position. The mod might weaken the pin a little, but won't affect axle position or locker operation that I'm aware of.


My mechanic was very familiar with gear/locker installs on other brands of vehicles, so he ground down the pin as well. He had to do it so much that almost half the pin was gone. This created way too much play in the locker because even with the pin rotated, the springs were allowed to move around too much. After the pin was replaced, and a few other parts that were worn/broken because of the pin, everything worked fine. He just ground down the ring gear teeth instead, which worked much better.
 
Well i finally got it to work right. I called the tech line again and tried all of their sugestions at once and it worked. Thanks for the help
 
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