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Hard Start

N

NWPhotog

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oregon
Hi

I am trying to troubleshoot this for my daughter 13 hours away. 93 Cherokee 6cyl aw4. It is taking longer to start after she turns the key. Seems to be turning over normal speed. No solenoid clicking. One time after a brief drive it would not start. Again no clicking. After she let it set 15 minutes it started normal ie turned over longer than normal. Any ideas?
 
If the starter is turning over normal speed, I would assume that the starter is fine then. It could still be electrical (fire) related like a crankshaft position sensor that is starting to go bad. On the other end of the spectrum it could be fuel related like a fuel filter (cheap and easy to replace) or possibly a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator going out. With the information provided it is a bit difficult to diagnose. these are just a few ideas.....
 
I agree, Time for Tune-up, Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/airfilter and a new CPS..

$100-120 bucks and it should be good as new..
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. I think plugs, wires, and rotor are a good maintenance idea but I don't think that would cause the slow start or the no turn over. Fuel filter or pump makes sense for slow start. I wish there were a way to confirm. Again thanks!
 
If it has had an issue of "No start" due to a hot motor, thats almost a dead give away to atleast check the CPS
 
NWPhotog said:
Thanks for the ideas guys. I think plugs, wires, and rotor are a good maintenance idea but I don't think that would cause the slow start or the no turn over. Fuel filter or pump makes sense for slow start. I wish there were a way to confirm. Again thanks!
Click to expand...

Now you say "no turn over". Before it seemed like it was turning over good but wouldn't start. To me, no turn over means that the starter motor is not engaging and making the engine rotate. But fuel filter/pump has nothing to do with cranking. Please clarify so we can help.
 
winterbeater said:
Now you say "no turn over". Before it seemed like it was turning over good but wouldn't start. To me, no turn over means that the starter motor is not engaging and making the engine rotate. But fuel filter/pump has nothing to do with cranking. Please clarify so we can help.
Click to expand...

Symptoms haven't changed at all. It starts but has to crank longer before actually firing. One time only it would not crank at all after having been driven a short distance. After letting it set for 15 minutes it cranked and started as described above.
 
NWPhotog said:
Symptoms haven't changed at all. It starts but has to crank longer before actually firing. One time only it would not crank at all after having been driven a short distance. After letting it set for 15 minutes it cranked and started as described above.
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like a failing battery/starter/cables.

Have her pull the battery cables, fully charge the battery for 24 hours (at least overnight), while charging it would be a good time to clean the cable ends and renew grounds. Once the battery is fully charged, have the battery load tested. If it passes the load test I would be suspicious of the starter/solenoid.

I wouldn't spend a lot of money on tune up parts until you are certain of the battery, cables, and starter.
 
I would verify electrical as Joe mentioned. Load test battery, freshen all battery connections. Solid electrical is critical to verify for all starting issues.

If that doesn't show anything, perform some fuel pressure testing, including LEAKDOWN testing. Compare your results to factory spec. Consult your field service manual for specifics.

You may be experiencing a leakdown of fuel pressure which results in a long crank before the engine fires.
 
birchlakeXJ said:
I would verify electrical as Joe mentioned. Load test battery, freshen all battery connections. Solid electrical is critical to verify for all starting issues.

If that doesn't show anything, perform some fuel pressure testing, including LEAKDOWN testing. Compare your results to factory spec. Consult your field service manual for specifics.

You may be experiencing a leakdown of fuel pressure which results in a long crank before the engine fires.
Click to expand...

Where do you get a field service manual and how do you check fuel pressure? I've been meaning to do since my XJ hard starts and I'm pretty certain it's a fuel system issue.
 
joe_peters said:
Sounds to me like a failing battery/starter/cables.

Have her pull the battery cables, fully charge the battery for 24 hours (at least overnight), while charging it would be a good time to clean the cable ends and renew grounds. Once the battery is fully charged, have the battery load tested. If it passes the load test I would be suspicious of the starter/solenoid.

I wouldn't spend a lot of money on tune up parts until you are certain of the battery, cables, and starter.
Click to expand...

X2 - intermittant not crank (different than not start), or slow crank indicate likely battery or connection issues.
 
nw-xj-scott said:
I agree, Time for Tune-up, Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/airfilter and a new CPS..

$100-120 bucks and it should be good as new..
Click to expand...


LOL! only in an XJ could a CPS be part of a normal tune-up, but it's the truth.
 
CPS does not affect cranking. This is a battery situation just like I just went through on my Crown Vic. I'd cleaned cables and grounds. It would start as long as it didn't sit for more than two days. Sometimes it cranked slower than others. Once, after leaving the door open for a short time, it wouldn't crank enough to start, but after closing the door and leaving it sit for 15 min, it started. Carried jumper cables around and parked where I could get a jump for a couple of weeks. Had 14V at battery when running and 12 when off. Broke down and spent $75 at Walmart for a new 850 cca battery. Played it out to the end, but what the hay? Begging jumps in the parking lot is embarrassing and calling road service for $100 don't cut it.
 
Ummm, it is not slow cranking. Also no clicking both of the solenoid which would be there for battery issues. It 1. cranks longer until it does start (but normal cranking speed), and 2. on 1 occasion would not crank at all until it cooled down. To me that suggest fuel pressure or leak down issue with possible CPS issue for the 1 no crank. Double shecking battery seems smart but I would be real surprised if that was issue. Tune up not likely but again smart to eliminate.
 
CKP (aka CPS) does not cause a "no cranking" situation.

No crank until it cools down: Failing battery, failing cables, bad grounds, failing starter/solenoid. As it is an AW4 the NSS (neutral safety switch) can be problematic, but it usually presents itself as won't crank in Park or Neutral until you play around with the shifter. You can verify the NSS or Starter relay as the problem by putting the vehicle in Park, parking brake on, key OFF, and jump/short across the positive battery main where it connects at the large lug of the starter solenoid to the terminal on the starter solenoid that the starter relay is connected to. If the battery, cables, grounds, starter and starter solenoid is good the engine will crank.

If you don't have a fully charged battery that can pass a load test, then you are P/ing into the wind. Life begins with the battery.

Hopscotch is a game, not a diagnostic procedure.

http://www.mankus.com/pages/Hopscotch.htm
 
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