Alternator core: What do they want?

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

So my alternator blew. So I went to pull it off, and the first bolt snapped off almost immediately.

I unbolted the entire alternator bracket and got it out. But the bolt that snapped was threaded through the alternator into the bracket. I figured the bracket would be more expensive than the core charge (even if I could find one) so I cut the tab off the end of the alternator so I'd have enough room on the end of the bolt to get hold off and save the bracket.

So now I have an alternator that's had the mounting hole cut off.

Think they'll let me use it as a core? Or am I going to have to pay the $40 charge? Cause that's lame.

joe_peters · May 30, 2009

CharlieMopps said:
So my alternator blew. So I went to pull it off, and the first bolt snapped off almost immediately.

I unbolted the entire alternator bracket and got it out. But the bolt that snapped was threaded through the alternator into the bracket. I figured the bracket would be more expensive than the core charge (even if I could find one) so I cut the tab off the end of the alternator so I'd have enough room on the end of the bolt to get hold off and save the bracket.

So now I have an alternator that's had the mounting hole cut off.

Think they'll let me use it as a core? Or am I going to have to pay the $40 charge? Cause that's lame.

Superglue?

Just kidding. Put it in the box and return it.

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

so... they don't check it? I can't remember if they ever inspected the ones I returned in the past.

Saudade · May 30, 2009

If they do and see your "handy work", they likely won't accept it. The core is useless without the mounting tab.

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

man, I should have got the optional aluminum kit for my welder. Oh well, I just found a 100amp at rockauto for $75 including the core charge. Which is cheaper than I can get it locally even if I had a decent core. So I'm just going to order it... along with some new pcv tubing since I found oil all over my air filter while I was in there.

GrimmJeeper · May 30, 2009

we check all cores for this exact reason. if they DO take it back, you are just screwing the store out of money. we dont make a cent on cores, they charge us, we charge you the same amount.

a core needs to be usable to be able to be turned in. the same goes for starters, calipers, distributors, whatever.

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

Well, I was gonna go to autozone. Ever since they charged me $30 fora pinion seal which I later found online for $4, I've not been too concerned about screwing them out of money. In any event, I found the alternator cheaper online so, I'm going that route instead.

GrimmJeeper · May 30, 2009

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

MaxxXJ · May 30, 2009

kinda scares me to hear stuff like this... it makes me want to break the bolt loose just to see if it comes off, my xj came from michigan then san diego which means SALT SALT SALT... every bolt ive ever taken off has been rusted, i pray my motor bolts dont end up the same way.

CharlieMopps · May 30, 2009

Every bolt I've taken off my jeep has been replaced with either Stainless Steel or Grade 8 depending on weather its load bearing or not. Stainless is cheap enough that I really think it's worth while. ALL my oilpan bolts are stainless now. I'll never have a problem getting that bastard off again.

MaxxXJ · May 30, 2009

thats a thought, every bolt i've taken off has been grade 8 or 10.8 SAE cuz we all know how jeeps like to use metric and sae =)

Saudade · May 30, 2009

MaxxXJ said:
kinda scares me to hear stuff like this... it makes me want to break the bolt loose just to see if it comes off, my xj came from michigan then san diego which means SALT SALT SALT... every bolt ive ever taken off has been rusted, i pray my motor bolts dont end up the same way.

I think as long as you allow time to deal with it if/when that happens, I would not tempt fate or mess with Murphy.

I've been lucky. My XJ has never been out of SoCal (sort of). It was purchased new in Santa Barbara (not by me) . Even my rear shock bolts came right out.

dagr8tim · May 30, 2009

When I worked at an Advance when I was in college. We'd just check to make sure the box wasn't full or rocks. Seriously most CD's (counter dummies) won't look that closely, and if they do odds are they are not familiar with your specific alternator to know the difference.

MaxxXJ · May 30, 2009

not intended to thread jack... my bad

shoot i wish!, my shock bolts were a nightmare! my sway bar bushings needed an impact... front shocks i stripped out the bottom set (stupid impact), my plastic door sill plate screws were all rusty, the bottom bolts and top nuts on the bar that connects the sway bar to the axle required a breaker bar pb blaster, grinder and lots of time to remove... to keep it simple... it looks nice on the inside and outside but this blasted rust underneeth is killing my patience!

5-90 · May 30, 2009

MaxxXJ said:
thats a thought, every bolt i've taken off has been grade 8 or 10.8 SAE cuz we all know how jeeps like to use metric and sae =)

Erm, "Grade 8" is SAE (inch) - I'll usually put it up as SAE8. SAE5 is the more common Grade 5.

What you list as "10.8" is actually "10.9", and it's the ISO (metric) property class of the screw - I'll usually refer to it as "ISO10.9" or "PC10.9". Typical property classis you'll see in the fastener aisle are 8.8, 9.8, 10.9, & 12.9 - although I've seen down to PC4.8.

I don't recall exactly how the PC numbering system works, except that the digit after the decimal is a percentage of the digit(s) before the decimal (typically 80% or 90%.) I usually have to look it up myself, but it's available online easily enough - just search for <ISO "property class"> (omit brackets.)

MaxxXJ · May 30, 2009

5-90 said:
Erm, "Grade 8" is SAE (inch) - I'll usually put it up as SAE8. SAE5 is the more common Grade 5.

What you list as "10.8" is actually "10.9", and it's the ISO (metric) property class of the screw - I'll usually refer to it as "ISO10.9" or "PC10.9". Typical property classis you'll see in the fastener aisle are 8.8, 9.8, 10.9, & 12.9 - although I've seen down to PC4.8.

I don't recall exactly how the PC numbering system works, except that the digit after the decimal is a percentage of the digit(s) before the decimal (typically 80% or 90%.) I usually have to look it up myself, but it's available online easily enough - just search for <ISO "property class"> (omit brackets.)

my bad i wasnt sure which was which and what i thought was an 10.8 is actually a 10.9, i went out and looked at my sway bar bushing bolts. i just know the bolts that go back on my xj will either be 10.9 or grade 8

thanks for the corrections. good lookin out

5-90 · May 30, 2009

MaxxXJ said:
my bad i wasnt sure which was which and what i thought was an 10.8 is actually a 10.9, i went out and looked at my sway bar bushing bolts. i just know the bolts that go back on my xj will either be 10.9 or grade 8 thanks for the corrections. good lookin out

It's the engineer in me - I'm a stickler for precision....

Alternator core: What do they want?

CharlieMopps

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