• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

New radiator...temps higher?

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
My specs are:
open cooling conversion.New 18lb cap,195* thermo,hoses,new cse 3 row,Dual procomp electric fans wired to manual switch.
Autometer temp gauge(to verify stock in dash)

With the old stock radiator the temps were lower.Really never reached 210 except while ideling in traffic or on the trail.....could drive around town without turning the fans on.
I tried a flow restrictor but the temps always sit right at the 210* mark and I'm running the fans WAY more than I did with the old radiator???Doesnt matter if I'm driving 65 down the freeway or 25 through town always at 210.

With the old radiator at speed the temps would drop well below 210* and I didnt run the fans nearly as much sitting in traffic.Another observation I made is the motor gets up to operation temp very quick compared to the old stock radiator.....
On the trail the fans stay on all day just to keep it from going above 210*
Thoughts????
 
Last edited:
try a high flow pump.

also your cap should be 16lbs.
 
isnt 210 the optimal temp?
 
yes

195* is the factory thermo.


so if its always at 210 isnt that a good thing? not to take away from the oddity that old radiator ran cooler...
 
Dual electric fans.
The fact being I'm running hotter with this 3 row CSE than I did when I had the oem 180k radiator......trying to figure out why.
 
so if its always at 210 isnt that a good thing? not to take away from the oddity that old radiator ran cooler...

It's suppose to run at 210. If you can get it to run cooler on a 195* thermo them you're in the green. If you plug in a 180* or lower thermo, you're in the red. The ECU will mess with the fuel to get it to run 195*+.
 
Dual electric fans.
The fact being I'm running hotter with this 3 row CSE than I did when I had the oem 180k radiator......trying to figure out why.

Perhaps Your Electric fans can't pull enough air through the 3 row versus the stock rad. I believe it's tougher to get air through a 3 row.
 
I have the same issue with the 3 core CSF. i have been running it for about a year now.
The temps are higher according to the guage which run from about 205 to roughly 215 then on the highway its says about 220 degrees. But pointing my laser thermometer at hoses and thermostat housing its around 195 degrees. then the temp sending unit for the gauge reads the same as the gauge itself. Also when i switched to the 3 core the stock thermostatic fan would never kick on which i figured was because the 3 core was keeping the engine cooler.
How many degrees difference do you guys think the hoses/thermostat housing would be from the actual coolant? Mine is a 99' with the sender sticking out of the housing.
 
I was in a pinch and went with a single core aluminum and went from running 210+ to about 195 never broke 210 yet. I spoke to someone at one fo the places in one a thread fom acouple of days ago and he suggested a single core would be better on an aluminum radiator. You would need more cores on a copper/brass. It seems most people with 3 cores still run at 210+..
 
I was tinkering with the cooling system today and still cant find out why its running hotter....even bled the system again.
Maybe the new stant thermostat I have in there isn't opening all the way?Next step is to add some purple ice coolant additive.Shouldn't have to do that because everything in my cooling system is new.....:dunno:

Can someone tell me how much warmer the coolant coming out of the water neck should be compared to the coolant that the sender sees on the back of the head?I have my auto meter coolant gauge sender in the water thermostat housing....and have different readings between the stock gauge and the autometer.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top