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Long Arm Mount Opinions Needed

C

Cherokeekid88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
So im in the process of building some new mounts for my long arms. Currently I have basically a box welded on the bottom of the frame rail with the arm mounted inside it. Very strong, but was just temp. I have a design that is based off the Teraflex long arm mounts. which is basically a right angle mount with tabs welded on the bottom and bolted to the frame. NOW, here is my question for all of you. What is the best method for mounting this mount? I really don't want to weld it to the frame. I would like to just do some self tapping bolts, but it seems to me, that the bolts are not going to have much to bite to. (Im using 3/16" steel plate plus the thickness of the frame rail) I could also go the route of just drilling holes and then drilling access holes and using nuts with the bolts and bolt them in that way....
I know of people who run the teraflex upgrade with no problems, but just wondered if there was a way I could improve it.
 
If you know how to weld, I would build a u-shaped metal box put it around the frame rails, then drill holes through both sides of the box and the frame so the bolt would go through one side and out the other.
 
i would not trust 5 or 6 self tapping bolts myself. too much forwards and backwards motion to wallow out the holes. i would be welding or making a new crossmember that incorporates the mounts.
i will be having to redo all my junk when i put the klune in later this year. otherwise the front driveshaft will hit the crossmember. well that or a carrier bearing i guess.
keep us posted as to what you do and how it holds up, so i can copy you:jester:

martin
 
leftlanetruckin said:
i would not trust 5 or 6 self tapping bolts myself. too much forwards and backwards motion to wallow out the holes. i would be welding or making a new crossmember that incorporates the mounts.
i will be having to redo all my junk when i put the klune in later this year. otherwise the front driveshaft will hit the crossmember. well that or a carrier bearing i guess.
keep us posted as to what you do and how it holds up, so i can copy you:jester:

martin
Click to expand...
Well, the cross member idea is out, because i have a TC drop on atm till I can get that damn 1310 yoke i need for less than $100. But what about the RK 3 link? Its mount is bolted to the frame, as well as the Teraflex mount? I really don't want to weld it, due to there might be some up coming changes in the works and would like to be able to unbolt something, rather than cut it off and what not.
 
I will tell you right now, self tapping bolt will NOT hold up. there are a ton of good build threads for long arms, have you looked at any of there ideas? how about some pics so we can see what you are planning on doing...
 
OK this is the design that I am going off of.
Teraflex mounts:
1001386medium7ow.jpg

1001389medium2jg.jpg

pic3.jpg

Here is my rough sketch drawn out with tabs which will be shortened:
3/16" steel plate (IGNORE THE MOUNTING HOLES)
0515091629-00.jpg

1/4" Tabs
0515091629-01.jpg

0515091630-00.jpg

Right now, I have the pieces cut and bent to look like the teraflex mount above.
Now my only dilemma is how to mount it. again, I want to avoid having to weld it.
 
only way i would trust that for my wife to drive with my kids inside, is to have frame stiffeners on there first. then drill through the whole shebang from the outside and mount all the side mounts with grade 8 nuts and bolts with a plate on the inside of the "frame" rail or sleeved.
sorry i am just a worry wart when it comes to suspension, steering and brakes.
if they sell the "kit" i would assume it works, but you know what they say about assuming right? i can see you not wanting to weld, but to me those mounts look insufficient being held in place with self tapping bolts, sorry.

martin
 
Well I think I'm am going to drill some access holes and buy some nice grade 8 hardware and bolt them in place with nuts on the ends. Then I might run some small beads in certain places.
BTW: Leftlanetruckin, your XJ is killer!
 
thanks for the compliment!:cheers:
i think i would sleep easier doing it that way, so long as you wither plated it where the nuts will go, or sleeved it. plating will be easier IMHO.

martin
 
why dont you just make the mounts a U shape and just bolt it all the way to the other side of the "frame"? that to me would make more sense. Less work to I would THINK (not sure cuz you just never know)
 
how tall are you going
what r the length of the arm upper and lower

and yess waaayyyy more armor plating u r dealing with sheat metal those "frame rails" are the same thickness as the fenders of my scout.

and if you really want to be cautious you need to remove fuel lines ect. from the rails construct channels the match the contour of your xj then run plating out to the edge of the rocker panel. this plat serves 2 purposes for those who do it before you wheel the dog piss out your rig. your rear doors will for always open without dislocating your thumb. and second the is a great mounting surface for sliders and internal cage. best of all you can find the metal you need by going to a big rig wrecker and buying the steal frame rails off the scrapped trucks usually bout 50 to 75 a rail

hope this helps i need do know how long my control arms upper and lower for 9 inchs of lift
 
on the bottom of your frame rail there are the two threaded nutzerts that is used from the factory. you will also see an additional one in the same vicinity. that hole is part of the same assembly and drilled to the proper size, but not tapped. find out what size tap you would need to make it match the stock bolt size in there (check 5-90's site). that adds an aditional mounting point. it looks almost like the bracket pictured earlier did that. and i know that the TnT y-link does that as well. then you could also drill through on the side of the frame rail and use a sleeved bolt and plate to secure that side better.

take a look at the way that other kit is done and then the y link for inspiration
 
Fab'd these up today.
0520091436-00.jpg

0520091328-00.jpg

Going to be held in my (5) 1/2" grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers on each mount.
Should be good enough. if not, I can always run a couple small beads.
 
How are you mounting the uppers?
 
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