What's my next move?

Hi everyone,

I have a 91 briarwood, about 3.5" lift, 32X11.5x15 BFG KM2's, lots of trimming, and d30/d35 with stock gears. The gearing doesn't bother me a ton and I'm getting decent mileage, but I am looking to get a locker.

I don't want to mess with the d35, so I was looking at putting a lock-right in the d30. The problem is I have a np242, and I don't want to make full time 4wd unusable. I don't mind not having it, but I don't want it to be a danger if others drive it. is my best bet to upgrade the d35 and lock the rear?

Would you reccomend regearing at the same time as installing the locker? I want to regear for 33's, but was hoping to go with a locker before that happens.

Any input/advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! This XJ is kind of old and crappy, and I have a second car, so Im trying to do things the right way but on a budget.

Thanks!!
Ben

I suggest looking at selectable lockers for the front. I really wouldn't recommend locking a D35. You'd be rally taking a big chance of grenading the rear. You may also just keep your eyes open for a C8.25" to swap in and use an Aussie in it.

Thanks, thats just what I have been thinking. Can I lock a 3.55 8.25 and use the same locker if I regear later (thinking 4.10 or 4.56)? A selectable on the front would be really cool, and I would love to have onboard air.

EDIT: based on the ARB lockers available, Id really have to regear at the same time I locked the d30. It looks like the 8.25 detroit can be used in all gear ratios?

Thanks!!
Ben

pantherchams said:

The problem is I have a np242, and I don't want to make full time 4wd unusable.

Click to expand...

silly question but what does locking the front and rear have to do with the NP242? i to am new to the game and just thought it interesting to ask as my knowledge in this area ain't to wide spread.
thx

As far as I understand, locking the front with a np242 makes full time useless. I do love full time, but I could live without it. What I don't want is someone else driving and trying to use it on the street and something horrible happening.

I have done a lot of research and still don't totally get it, but it seems like there is a "differential" in the 242 that allows the front and rear drivetrains to travel at different speeds. A front locker will destroy this "differential" in full traction situations.

A rear locker is fine with either Tcase. But i don't want to lock my crappy d35 and risk disaster.

Ben

The 242 splits the power 60/40 and allows all 4 wheels to power the vehicle on dry pavement. It only works on an open axle like you said and if you dont you can either break the axle or send the front end in the opposite direction of the steering wheel.

I would lock the d35. are they the strongest axle, no. but i've seen plenty of people lock them or just weld them and beat the crap out of them and nothing's ever happened. I've seen more locked d30's break than d35's. just my opinion. and if the d35 does break, they're a dime a dozen at the junkyard to replace.

i think 410 and 456 would be a different carrier than 355's

Seems to be some mis-guided information on this post. I have the NP242 as well, and as far as I know, it does not split power 60/40. When in full-time 4-wheel, the transfer case acts as an open differential, not like a limited slip. There is no front/rear bias.

That being said, I agree that locking the front with anything but a selectable locker (electric, air, or cable) will introduce undesirable driving traits on the highway...especially on snow/ice covered roads (read: lack of steering).

I don't know about the C8.25 differential, but I know the D30 and D35 have a carrier break at 3.73's. This means you couldn't get a locker now, then re-gear later to 4.10's or 4.56's without getting a new locker (read: $$$$).

Knowing all of this is why I re-geared to 4.56's, put a Ford 8.8 in the rear, and installed selectable lockers all at once. I also did the SYE and CV joint rear driveshaft at the same time. It was spendy to do all at one time, but cheaper in the long run to end up at the same place.

hey flyfisher do u know which model to look for an 8.8 with 410's ive only found the 355 and 373 in ford exploders

yeah, do it all at once and stop pissing away your money - trust us who have been through it because trying to go to cheap and buying stuff twice never pays - just go dana 70 and never look back ... ok so I am kidding about the d70 LOL but seriously try to spend your money well and you will be rewarded in the end with a solid, reliable rig that you can be proud of

dirtbagXJ2103 said:

hey flyfisher do u know which model to look for an 8.8 with 410's ive only found the 355 and 373 in ford exploders

Click to expand...

Find a 96 up which will have disk brakes and makes this swap that much better.
The 4.10's could be ordered on any Explorer, they are in 6 cyl and V8 models. Most JY will ask you for which one, 6 or 8 cyl but they are all the same, no difference in what it was behind they are just reading a computer screen which asks that.

this one explains the tags on the ranger axles and the Explorer 8.8's
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html

just a thought

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=992431&highlight=chrysler

if you have the Vac disco d30 then you can just get a posi lock kit and unlock it when in 4wd. It will give you 3 wheel drive instead. Just a thought

Baja17 said:

if you have the Vac disco d30 then you can just get a posi lock kit and unlock it when in 4wd. It will give you 3 wheel drive instead. Just a thought

Click to expand...

he has the 242 case so it never used the d30 vacuum disconnect.