Sorry I posted this in a hurry. He used a 91 HO motor to replace a renix motor. These are the dirresctions he followed:
Swapping an OBDI HO 4.0 L engine into a Renix 4.0 L system.
Both engines starting out mounted to Automatic Transmissions.
(I used a 93 sport & 89 Pioneer)
Parts used from OBDI system:
Engine & intake/throttle body
Fuel Rail
Accellerator Cable (going to gas pedal)
Transmission kickdown cable (must be removed/installed inside transmission by dropping pan)
Exhaust system
IAC sensor
Air Box & hoses
Power steering pump & bracket (I believe either can be used, but I used this one)
Open cooling system radiator & window washer fluid bottle (reused as overflow bottle)
Parts used from Renix system:
Computer & wiring harness
All Sensors besides IAC on intake
Flywheel & CPS sensor
Alternator
Starter
Distributor
Coil
Vacuum lines
EGR will be deleted (but can be left plugged in)
Air Conditioner
AC & Alternator brackets
Parts you will need to purchase:
Fuel line extensions & clamps
Vacuum lines to replace worn lines (not required)
Possibly wiring & electrical tape to extend/adapt lines
Transmission fluid ~4qts
Power steering fluid ~1qt
The Swap Process:
I basically followed this website's overview:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/99/09_sept/engswap/engswap.html
Here is another link some have found helpful, but I did not refernce this link myself when doing my swap:
http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/Tech/TB/tb_perf.htm
But I think that adding my description of my swap below will help others with questions some more.
I started the swap with 2 "complete" vehicles, which is the easiest way to do the swap in my opinion. If you do not have the vehicles, and just have an engine from a junkyard, make sure you also purchase the items listed above which may not come with the engine.
I pulled the engine from the renix system first, taking care to note where vacuum & electrical lines hooked up to which sensors. I ended up pulling the transmission with the engine due to my inability to access a few bellhousing bolts. (Pulling the tranny involves removing the shifter, driveshafts, crossmember, t-case linkage , exhaust & possibly a few other small things) I believe it is actually easier to do it this way due to the ability to access a few parts for removal/installation and to mount the engine to the tranny. I then removed/replaced the tranny kickdown cable and removed the CPS/flywheel from the old engine.
I have found it also makes it much easier to remove the engine/tranny combo and access the engine during this swap if you remove the nosepieces, radiator and grill. I did not have working AC in either vehicle and had no desire to, so I just cut the condensor lines (systems were previously drained.
Now I removed the newer engine & tranny in the same method and removed the tranny kickdown cable. I also removed the exhaust system to reuse in the other XJ since the downpipe will be used from this system.
Now, with both engines out and side-by-side you will need to compare sensors, electronics & the pully system. Now is also a good time to change from/rear main seals if they are leaky.
First, I mounted the Renix flywheel in place of the OBDI flywheel.
Next you will need to pull all of the sensors out of the old renix block and mount them to your new OBDI block, they should all have places to mount in very similar locations to where they were before. Most will mount in exactly the same spots, but I believe the knock sensor has a lug in the block that has to be removed to insert it in the block.
After this, you will need to change over the AC/Alternator brackets and the respective components. *I have heard that if you use a HO Jeep Wrangler engine that the water pump must also be swapped over as the flow routes differently.
Now, I mounted the engine to the tranny and bolted up the flywheel to the torque converter. Easiest XJ CPS mounting job ever!
Drop the new combo into the engine bay and hook up all of the vacuum lines and electrical lines you can.
There will be a few pieces that you have to fabricate:
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The newer fuel rail has both ports at the front; whereas the Renix system originally has one at the front and one at the rear. You will need to cut/flare/splice longer fuel line between the lines on the frame and fuel rail.
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The TPS for an Automatic Tranny will need to be modified to work with the HO throttle body. Both are currently male pieces and one needs to become a female for them to work together.
http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c72/jfiscus/93%20High%20Output%20Engine/
I also think this link may be helpful for DIY:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=905450
If you want to spend a few dollars this is really nice:
http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=45563&catId=7972
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I extended the old radiator temp sensor wire & mounted it into the hole in the thermostat housing. My electric fan never worked before the swap on its own, so I don't know if this helps or not. I have a toggle switch for the fan in the cab if my temps go up to 210.
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The old closed cooling system routes differently than the open system & the open system needs an overflow bottle. I reused the newer windshield washer fluid in place of the stock closed cooling system bottle. I removed the bottle & mounting bracket & mounted the new bottle right there on the firewall. You wont be able to use the HO's overflow bottle, as it mounts to the same location as your Renix coil is still mounte
