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Any problems with 1992 model year?

clunk

NAXJA Forum User
I'm looking at a 1992 XJ with 65k on the odometer, senior citizen driven. Overall condition is nearly a 10/10, it looks to be garage kept it's whole life and probably towed behind an RV. The interior is mint as well, still has the original (working!) AM/FM cassette player!

I currently have a 1990 that is getting a little long in the tooth. I'm planning on buying this new one and swapping my AT's and driving it stock until next winter to see what (if any) bugs need working out before I lift it and start wheeling it harder. Probably also swap a few other small parts (battery, starter if it's compatible, speakers etc).

What major changes are there between the 1990 and 1992 model year? I can think of a few, anything that I'm missing? Mostly thinking of the Renix vs HO engine and the cooling system changes are a big plus. Will the front axle have 297 u-joints? The rear is a D35, not too concerned about it though since it's been okay in my 1990.

Any other quirks with this model year? I'm anticipating a leaky RMS and other gaskets with a truck this old with low mileage, which is no biggie. Any other parts that like to crap out around 65k?
 
I think the only difference you'll see is the HO engine. Everything else should be the same as your '90. Still 260 u-joints (unless it has ABS) and should be D35.
 
"Senior citizen driven" isn't all its cracked up to be. Make sure you get a mechanic to check it out. Let me explain:

Seniors often take only short trips to church and the grocery store and might not allow the engine to properly warm up causing oil contamination.

Seniors are pretty good at changing their oil every 3000 miles but often ignore the "or 3 months part" further leading to oil contamination and possible sludge formation.

Since most seniors have a relaxed driving style the heads are probably full of carbon deposits. Get some Mopar combustion chamber cleaner if you buy it and go out on the nearest interstate and open the throttle up.

But other than these issues senior vehicles are often only parked in garages and almost never driven in rain or snow and look fantastic.
 
I think the only difference you'll see is the HO engine. Everything else should be the same as your '90. Still 260 u-joints (unless it has ABS) and should be D35.

My '92 came with the 27-spline C8.25 and non-disco front axle. Maybe only the ABS models got D35 rears?

With the '92, you get OBD-I diagnostic capabilities (you can do the ignition key trick to make the check engine light blink out the fault codes).

Make sure you have a good look at the floorpan inside and out - the cheap foam gasket between the cabin air ducts and the cowl could be gone, in which case the passenger side footwell fills with rain water (or it could just soak into the under-carpet pad, which is even more insidious).
 
"Senior citizen driven" isn't all its cracked up to be. Make sure you get a mechanic to check it out. Let me explain:

Seniors often take only short trips to church and the grocery store and might not allow the engine to properly warm up causing oil contamination.

Seniors are pretty good at changing their oil every 3000 miles but often ignore the "or 3 months part" further leading to oil contamination and possible sludge formation.

Since most seniors have a relaxed driving style the heads are probably full of carbon deposits. Get some Mopar combustion chamber cleaner if you buy it and go out on the nearest interstate and open the throttle up.

But other than these issues senior vehicles are often only parked in garages and almost never driven in rain or snow and look fantastic.

My 1990 was also a low mileage, senior driven XJ in good condition, except it has heavy carbon buildup that I can't shake with MCCC. I'm going to be checking this new one out quite thoroughly before buying it, if it's solid I'd like to keep it for a long while!
 
My 1990 was also a low mileage, senior driven XJ in good condition, except it has heavy carbon buildup that I can't shake with MCCC.

Seafoam will clear up almost any carbon. Follow the directions on can and add to fuel for a cpl of months and it will clean it right out.
People running 2 stroke boat motors have used it for years since 2 strokes carbon up under normal use because of the oil mixture in the gas. ive seen motors used with it and without and its a huge difference.
 
Seafoam will clear up almost any carbon. Follow the directions on can and add to fuel for a cpl of months and it will clean it right out.
People running 2 stroke boat motors have used it for years since 2 strokes carbon up under normal use because of the oil mixture in the gas. ive seen motors used with it and without and its a huge difference.
trust me, tried it all. The damage has been done to my engine and it's on borrowed time, hence looking at a replacement XJ
 
what sounds like a really bad lifter, but isn't. Sometimes sounds like rod knock.
It's actually a sticking exhaust or intake valve. I've cured it for a while with MCCC but only for 3000 miles or so, now it's back and the combustion chamber cleaner isn't doing anything any more.
It's been doing it for 3 years and I'm finally sick of worrying if it will die on a long trip, and too many other things on the existing XJ need replacing so I'm going to start fresh.
 
what sounds like a really bad lifter, but isn't. Sometimes sounds like rod knock.
It's actually a sticking exhaust or intake valve. I've cured it for a while with MCCC but only for 3000 miles or so, now it's back and the combustion chamber cleaner isn't doing anything any more.
It's been doing it for 3 years and I'm finally sick of worrying if it will die on a long trip, and too many other things on the existing XJ need replacing so I'm going to start fresh.

Did you try adding 1-3 ounces of 100% pure acetone per 10 gallons of fuel?
 
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