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Here's the plan

squidd

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Everett, WA
OK what do you guys think? I am supposed to be getting my return check early next week and I will be placing the orders.

Iron Rock critical path long arm upgrade - I know not the best known and they use a 3 link set up but I am going to give it a shot and try it out. Everyone who owns their stuff realy likes it and at $599 for the kit I think its workth trying.

Some sort of double shear track bar and drop bracket. Iron rock, Rustys and RE all make them about the same price too.

Toss up between the DT8000 and the bilstein 5150's for the front. Kinda comes down to how much I have left to spend. Since I will be running 35's and from what I have read I will need to bump stop even at 6" I'm thinking to go as long on the shocks as I can since I have really long extended brake lines.

RE 5.5 springs. These seem like the best all round spring out there. Seems like people have had problems with the Rustys and Deaver are really expensive and have the highest spring rates. I still can't figure why you would want high spring rates on a rock/ trail rig??

Cheap used Marshal 35x12.5 R15's. Never heard of the brand but from what I understand they are made by Kumo. Price is right and if I get them all cut up getting my fender triming right I won't be heart broken.

760X u-joints. Swap out my 297's supposidly they are a dirrect replacement.

4.88 gears. Got the front still need to buy the set for the 8.8. Still trying to decide if I am going to do both myself or if I can find some one to set them up that doesn't charge an arm and a leg. (Speed things up so maybe I'll make it to NW fest)

So like I said thats the tenative plan. Just wanted to bounce it off of you guys. What do you think??

James
 
IRO makes a great product and I ran a single upper Y-Link system for a long time without issues.

1. One issue I ran into with one upper is that it really liked to make the Jeep brake steer. I ended up putting a RockKrawler Krawler joint in the upper bushing housing on top of the diff to replace the stock rubber bushing, and this eliminated that issue 100%

2. RE springs work fine, but I'd suggest looking into BRIANHO13's shackle relocator, a 4.5" Spring, and a 1-1.5" lift shackle angled up real nice to make the rear ride really well and perform to boot.

3. Use the tires and simultaneously start saving for something better like KM2's or TrXus MT's (personally I love both, the TrXus dominate the snow)

4. Look into the RE Monotubes as another option for shocks, I was quite impressed.
 
Ditton on Jr's comments about going /w the 4.5" spring and shackle instead of 5.5" springs.

There is no advantage really to swapping the 760x joints for the 297x joints unless yours are already worn out.

Go with RE trackbar, don't buy Rusty's.

The RE monotubes are good shocks, the Bilstein's are also. If you're looking for a decent shock on the "cheap" end of the spectrum, the Skyjacker Nitros work great.

J
 
Ditton on Jr's comments about going /w the 4.5" spring and shackle instead of 5.5" springs.

There is no advantage really to swapping the 760x joints for the 297x joints unless yours are already worn out.

Go with RE trackbar, don't buy Rusty's.

The RE monotubes are good shocks, the Bilstein's are also. If you're looking for a decent shock on the "cheap" end of the spectrum, the Skyjacker Nitros work great.

J

X3.

Personally I would get the Bilstein shocks, it is worth the few more $.
Nothing wrong with a 3 link, I know NOTHING about Iron Rock so I can't comment on theirs directly.

I have done my own gears on numerous occasions but I recommend talking to John at ACRO to have them done personally.

Michael
 
Thatnks for the opinions guys, just wanted to make sure I wasn't making any terrible mistakes. Spring wise I was looking at fronts. I am currently running 4" Alcans with a 1.5 inch shackle plus the magic .25 ford 8.8 lift in the back so I think i'm OK there. I would run spacers with my current springs but they are RC4.5's and seemed to really drop in height after I put my front bumper on. My heep sits at least 2" higher in the back and is gaining the nickname "stink bug" at work. Can't have that happen. So you guys say there is no real advantage to the 760's?
Thanks again.
 
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Not a HUGE difference in 297x vs. 760x. If yours are worn out, then yes put the 760s in. Me, I wouldn't spend the money/time/effort to replace one with the other as an "upgrade", only if they were worn out and getting replaced anyways.
 
Not a HUGE difference in 297x vs. 760x. If yours are worn out, then yes put the 760s in. Me, I wouldn't spend the money/time/effort to replace one with the other as an "upgrade", only if they were worn out and getting replaced anyways.

I agree with John on this as well.
I was under the impression that the 760's were a replacement to the 297's I didn't think that the 297's were still available, but I could be completely wrong. Either way, I don't believe there is any significant advantage strength wise.

Michael
 
Alright, I placed my order this morning. IRO LA, double shear trackbar , and RE 5.5 springs. Now I just have to wait for it all to ship. I guess IRO is a week to 2 out on the LA kit but I've waited this long :)
 
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