stronger tubing

Whats stronger 1 1/4" chromo thats .250 wall or DOM 1 1/2" .250 wall for steering...

Ive done a hp 44 swap and am doing the steering now and dont have the cash for high steer so Im going to at least OTK it... Im not sure the 1.5" tube will fit under it thats why I was thinking about 1.25 chromo but Its a hell of a lot more money... Plus I can pick up ballistic fabs steering kit with tierod ends and weld in bungs for a lot less money but it uses 1.5 .250 DOM and I had contemplated getting taps and doing the 1.25 chromo so theres no welds to fail but I still have to buy the taps then... So as a strength question to those who have done it 1.5 or 1.25 and spend the cash on taps or just do the weld in stuff and save a few bucks and get it on the road sooner....

themud

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

heres the link for the steering...

Keep it simple. Do OTK with 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends and 11/16" ID .288 wall DOM from Poly Performance so you don't have to drill it before you tap it, and get the taps online from Northern Tool. Relatively inexpensive, simple to do, you'll have the taps for the future, and the .288 wall DOM won't bend.

Goatman said:

Keep it simple. Do OTK with 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends and 11/16" ID .288 wall DOM from Poly Performance so you don't have to drill it before you tap it, and get the taps online from Northern Tool. Relatively inexpensive, simple to do, you'll have the taps for the future, and the .288 wall DOM won't bend.

Click to expand...

that's what I did, except I used straight 3/4" chromo rod ends

Got pics of this setup??? Im worried about the tierod rolling and general streetability which is why I want to do tierods vs rod ends I have used both before and just prefer the tierod ends but Im not stuck on them...

Btw how did you connect the draglink to the tierod??
thanks
themud

(that bolt was just temporary)


Here's just a couple quick pics I have on my computer, if you want anything else let me know.
As far as streetability, The steering is alot more solid with the rod ends, no question there. The rod ends are cheaper and stronger, but they don't last as long typically.

I attached the drag link to the tie rod the way I did for a couple reasons. I like the fact that it's in double shear, and the draglink will drop farther that way. (I do bind at the pitman arm though)

Thats why I wanted a tierod end on the pitman as they have more travel vs rod ends....

Im also worried about the roll on the tierod with that setup...
themud

If I was doing steering on a D44 without high steer arms I'd make it inverted Y. Run from the pitman arm to the tie rod, use a 3/4 x 3/4 rod end with high misalignment spacer to a 5/8 bolt on the pitman arm and use the QA1 double adjuster to adjust the drag link to center the steering, and use another 3/4 x 3/4 rod end and high misalignment spacer and 5/8 bolt at the knuckle. Depending on how much droop you have, that should give you enough movement. Weld a couple tabs on the bottom of the drag link by the knuckle and mount the tie rod from there to the top of the drivers knuckle. You don't need the high misalignment spacers on the tie rod because it mostly just pivots on the rod ends, so just use the safety washers for some spacing.

The steering will be strong and positive, and you don't have to deal with the tubing size and taps needed for the 7/8 thread for the 1 ton TRE's. Nothing wrong with TRE's, they just aren't needed and rod ends are easier to work with. If you still want the TRE's, maybe I'll sell you the drill and tap I have for the 1 ton TRE's, and I also have the drill and tap for the stock XJ size TRE.

I have the RK longarm kit so droop may be a problem as I have lots of it... Pm me a price on the taps just for curiosity and Im already going to research rod end prices and tube prices for the .288 stuff and the 3/4 rod ends...
I have heard that a 5/8 bolt through the factory knuckle on dana 44s isnt tight enough and with the current factory taper from the ford ends it leaves a bit of slop in the knuckle where the bolt goes through any thoughts on that... As I understand from some research tierod ends have more angularity than rod ends which is why Im looking at them for the draglink at least at the pitman arm...

thanks
themud

whats the OD for the .288 wall DOM with a 11/16 ID??
What would you think of tierod ends at all points but the draglink to tierod connection how about a rod end there to make it easier...