stroker oil pan leak issues?

ok guys, i'm putting this in modified tech because im wondering if any of you stroker guys are having the same problem...
ive had a lotta trouble lately with my (95' block) stroker leaking oil from the pan gasket(s). the third gasket is now sitting in the shop waiting to be installed. it will idle and not leak much, then i drive it, park it, and when i return there is a 3 or 4 oz puddle under it. i suspect the block might be twisting under load slightly and breaking the seal? the 1 peice rubber gasket is all i can find at the part stores. i was told by 2 different people NOT to use permatex on it. i'm about to say F' it and run solid silicon. does anybody else have a similar problem?

i was wondering about the use of permatex on the rubber gasket too...mines leaking pretty bad as well

I'm quoting from The makers of the Golen Stroker "The 4.2L oil pan is preferred over the 4.0L pan because it provides a slightly deeper pan which is necessary to accommodate for the bigger high volume oil pump the stroker comes with."

You don't need a high volume oil pump with a stroker unless you have some oiling issues or lose tolerances.

When I install a gasket I put some ultra black rtv on the pan side, a dab at each point where the timing cover meets the block and where the rear main cap meets the block. I also use the one piece rubber gasket, which you should be using to begin with. Then torque it down to spec. I never had a leak doing it that way.

Also, check that the oil pan flange is straight.

And, make sure you get the sump rails on the block nice and clean, and that there are no surface defects on them.

There's no sound reason why building a stroker would make the block leak, so it's got to be something on an individual basis. A bent sump flange can be fised using a brass rod and a light hammer against a flat surface (I've done it before, when I've had to pry sump pans off of the block,) but the block should also be checked, in case you (or a PO) managed to gouge the block with the first removal of the sump (it's easy enough to do.)

thanks. when i get the time to do it, i'll take a real close look at the block surface. i'm pretty sure it's not the new doorman oil pan, there might be a pry dent or something that i have cleaned over/rounded off on the block. it's leaking from the back half of the pass side rail. what do you guys think about using a little rtv on both sides of the gasket for extra insurance?

I put Black RTV and new gaskets on everything. For the oil pan I glued the gasket to it first and put all the bolts down from the top to hold the gasket until it started to set. Then I put a coat of RTV on the block and enginge side put the pan in place and torqued it down. The only bad part about RTV is knowing how much is to much. You can have excess fall apart in the engine and clog up filters and pickups, but just use a good coat and you should be fine.

xuv-this said:

thanks. when i get the time to do it, i'll take a real close look at the block surface. i'm pretty sure it's not the new doorman oil pan, there might be a pry dent or something that i have cleaned over/rounded off on the block. it's leaking from the back half of the pass side rail. what do you guys think about using a little rtv on both sides of the gasket for extra insurance?

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No reason not to - I do it all the time.

When you're checking for surface defects, don't neglect the "thumbnail test" - simply drag your thumbnail along the surface, and see if it hitches anywhere (use the end of the nail.) Your thumbnail isn't hard enough to damage anything, and I've found defects that way that I couldn't see.

Oh.. one though i had... do you have a main girdle that is spaced out on your stroker? Have you checked oil pump clearances? One of the two may be hitting the oil pan when it is fully torqued down. May want to check clearances with some silly putty and adjust with a bfh as necessary.

I used no rtv and I used a rubber gasket. no leaking

Talyn said:

Oh.. one though i had... do you have a main girdle that is spaced out on your stroker? Have you checked oil pump clearances? One of the two may be hitting the oil pan when it is fully torqued down. May want to check clearances with some silly putty and adjust with a bfh as necessary.

Click to expand...

thanks. i'm still using the original sump, it might be bent a little. i'll check the inside of the new oil pan for paint rubbing off.