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Rough Country 4.5" Lift Kit Install

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NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bolingbrook, IL
Installing RC's 4.5" lift kit on my 1990 Wagoneer Limited right now. No problems so far, just battling rusted bolts mostly. Had some questions and Rough Country is closed so I thought I'd ask the experts! I bought the XJ bracket relocation kits along with the kit (as recommended.) So it's kinda two projects that need to be merged together (I don't want to put on the whole lift kit only to have to take it apart to put on the brackets) so I'm trying to do them both at the same time.

My question is, using the brackets, can I use the stock upper control arms and the fixed lowers that came with the kit?

Also, how in the heck do you get the new coils on without taking off the front brakes? I've got the coils compressed pretty good and I can tell just by looking at it, it's not happening. Any tricks here?

I seem to have a big vacuum line on my front diff that's disconnected - what is it and where does it go?

Thanks in advance!
 
Also, how in the heck do you get the new coils on without taking off the front brakes? I've got the coils compressed pretty good and I can tell just by looking at it, it's not happening. Any tricks here?
When I did my 3" lift I took the brake caliper off the front disk and tied it up.
 
You need to use the stock uppers and lowers at 4.5 inches. My setup is identical to yours, and with my RC fixed lowers, I have so much caster that my power steering pump sounds like its going to die when I turn.
 
Front "vacuum line" is a breather hose for your diff. Let it hang loose.

Take the calipers off and tie them to something so they don't hang from the brake lines. Its only two bolts holding the caliper on. To remove it, you might have to push the caliper back and fourth to push the piston in enough to "unstick" it from the rotor.

Good luck!
 
where is the vacuum line? is it top side of the actual differential? if so its the stock breather hose.
 
You need to use the stock uppers and lowers at 4.5 inches. My setup is identical to yours, and with my RC fixed lowers, I have so much caster that my power steering pump sounds like its going to die when I turn.

Ok, so you are using the brackets as well then? I also got the steering stabilizer (really the only part of the kit I've installed so far) so I don't know if that makes any difference.

That tube must be the breather tube for the diff, thanks for explaining everyone.
 
What is the technical term for the piece of rubber that comes out (facing down) into the coil? Mine have definitely seen better days and probably need to be replaced.
 
spring/coil isolater if your refering to the rubber donut looking thing that is at the top of your coil spring

have you got any farther with the lift yet?
 
You can also slide a coolant hose over your spring which will do the same thing as the isolator. Its only there to cut down on spring noise
 
spring/coil isolater if your refering to the rubber donut looking thing that is at the top of your coil spring

have you got any farther with the lift yet?


Thanks guys, but I'm talking about the piece that actually points down and hits the bottom of the spring saddle (if you hit a big bump or something..) kinda doorknob shaped? Sorry, I can take a pic tonight but you probably know what I am talking about. I'll be removing the brakes and placing in the new coils tonight. Now I'm just worried about those control arms; sounds like I should just stick with the stock ones but to be honest the fixed bent ones that came with the lift are only about a half an inch longer and WAY more beefy so I really want to use them instead.. did you get an alignment after the install, chpmnsws6?

I will also be using full spring pack in back, not AAL; have no idea if that will mess with front control arm angles or not. It's a 20 year old XJ so the existing leafs are literally almost flat...
 
your refering to the "bumpstops" then.

If you run the new lowers in the drop brackets you WILL have issues at 4.5" if lift. It may only seem like 1/2" is not much, but it is ALOT when it comes to your suspension geometry. If your running the drop brackets at 4.5" you need to run stock length uppers and lowers. As far as chpmnsws6's alignemnt, that wont have anything to do with what the control arms are doing. I know your wanting to use the new beefy arms, but they are just too long to run with the drop backets. Probably not what ya wanted to hear, but just the truth. Now if you decided to lift it more in the future, those arms might work then. As far as you rear suspension set up, it will not mess with your front control arm angles relating to the lift.
 
As far as chpmnsws6's alignemnt, that wont have anything to do with what the control arms are doing.


??? Control arm length has EVERYTHING to do with caster.

My control arms are pulled all the way back in the alignment slots and it still has far to much positive caster, which lifts the truck up a good 2-3 inches when turn the wheel :looney:
 
I should have stated that differently not sure what I was thinking there (apparently not about caster :D ) , sorry about that chpmnsws6. So I do retract my earlier statement.
 
??? Control arm length has EVERYTHING to do with caster.

My control arms are pulled all the way back in the alignment slots and it still has far to much positive caster, which lifts the truck up a good 2-3 inches when turn the wheel :looney:


Ahh, now I understand. Thanks for clarifying guys. So, in your opinion - would it be better to just use the lift arms and no brackets, or the brackets and stock arms?

I'm assuming the latter would have a better ride on the road but compromise clearance and the former would be better for the trail but not as smooth on the road??

Thanks again for your help. And yeah, that must be the bumpstops.. any idea where I can get new ones? NAPA?
 
The CAD kit and stock arms will give you a FAR better ride. If you google around, you can find extended bumpstops
 
I should have stated that differently not sure what I was thinking there (apparently not about caster :D ) , sorry about that chpmnsws6. So I do retract my earlier statement.


Just didn't want to confuse the new guy... wait, thats me :laugh3:
 
not sure about NAPA, but I may have some good ones in the shop. I'll let ya know after I get home and you can have them for free. I know some companies like Rubicon Express have extended replacement ones, but they are kind of pricey if I recall.
 
The CAD kit and stock arms will give you a FAR better ride. If you google around, you can find extended bumpstops


Ok thanks guys, this is how I'm gonna proceed. I guess I'll grease up the bushings in the stock arms and throw them on with the control arm drop kit (they're not in bad shape, really.) Will post pics pre and post lift later...
 
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