D30 Yolk Swapping

I have a LP D30 with the rezeppa "yoke" on it. I want to switch it to the common 1310 yoke from a HP D30 which I have. Can I just swap them out? Is there an issue with crush sleeves on the pinion I have to be aware of?

Thanks,
Adam

AdamGriffiths said:

I have a LP D30 with the rezeppa "yolk" on it. I want to switch it to the common 1310 yolk from a HP D30 which I have. Can I just swap them out? Is there an issue with crush sleeves on the pinion I have to be aware of?

Thanks,
Adam

Click to expand...

It's "yoke," not "yolk" (it helps when someone else needs to find the answer to this later...)

I believe the crush sleeve is a common feature in Dana axles. However, you can download the Dana D30 MSM (Manufacturer's Service Manual) directly from the Dana Expert site - www.dana.com, click the "Dana Expert" link, and go from there.

If you can't find it, I can probably dig it up for you, but it's quicker to find it on the Dana site yerself.

Does it look like this one?

i just put in a u-bolt style yoke instead of the bolt and strap crap and i had some fluid that leaked out, but once i put the new one on there and tightened the heck out of it with the impact it stopped leaking right away

Thanks-fixed it where I could.

What I need to know is if I can swap them out without worrying about changing gear mesh, bearing pre-load etc.. I believe that the LP that I have does in fact have a crush sleeve. Not what I need to know however.

AdamGriffiths said:

Thanks-fixed it where I could.

What I need to know is if I can swap them out without worrying about changing gear mesh, bearing pre-load etc.. I believe that the LP that I have does in fact have a crush sleeve. Not what I need to know however.

Click to expand...

You should be able to - the idea of the crush sleeve is to set preload on the pinion gears, not to alter gear mesh.

For best results, you'll still want to drop the carrier, check preload on the pinion, then swap. Set torque on the pinion nut (using a new crush sleeve!) then torque further in increments until the preload is back where it was before you tore it to bits.

Since you're replacing the yoke, replace the seal as well. I'd honestly suggest replacing the four bearings while you're about it (both carrier bearings, both pinion bearings,) but that's just me. I figure if I'm going to tear something to bits and put it back together, as much of it will be new as it possibly can be!

You will want a new pinion shaft yoke nut as well - it's typically a deformed-thread locknut, and should only really be considered "good" for one torque cycle.

I'd appreciate it if you were to give me measurements for such fasteners as you remove, as I'm trying to collect data for the fastener table I've got up on my site. Not what size wrench you need (that's standard according to fastener size and head style,) but thread diameter/pitch and underhead length, as well as any special notes that may apply.

squabash said:

i just put in a u-bolt style yoke instead of the bolt and strap crap and i had some fluid that leaked out, but once i put the new one on there and tightened the heck out of it with the impact it stopped leaking right away

Click to expand...

You best back that nut off!!! NEVER tighten a yoke with an impact!!

Some have crush sleeves (I'm no claiming to know which ones do and don't...just that mine don't have crush sleeves, hehe) but either way (crush sleeve or not) if you hammer the yoke back on with an impact....bye bye gears!! The torque on the yoke sets the preload on the pinion bearings. Too tight, and they're not happy. They don't like being too loose either.

I have changed my yokes many a times, successfully I might add. Every time I've looked up and found the torque spec (it's in the 200 ft/lbs. range, give or take 20 ft/lbs depending...I forget, but it's definitely 180-220 range for D30/D44). Get a torque wrench and a pipe to add some torque to it. Block the tires as best you can and tighten that thing until it clicks and no more. I'ts really hard to make it click. I've had to run it without making the wrench click at the proper torque and been fine, but I tightened it as tight as I could by hand, underneath the jeep, in the dirt.

Unless you have a really pussy impact....you best back that nut off NOW!

Another method that I've heard works is if you mark the nut and the pinion before you back it off, and then just get that mark to line back up. I have no experience as to whether or not this method actually works or not, this is just hearsay, but IMO, it sounds like it should do the trick, or get it close enough for government work. I do have personal experience saying that using the torque wrench works (haven't blown any of my 4 pinion (I have two jeeps with D30/44 combos) yet!!) but I do personally know someone who has used the impact on the pinion and the rear end didn't last much longer after that.

My Dana 30 from my 95 XJ (Built December of 94) did not have a crush sleeve, fyi.

Thanks for the info. I believe the LP D30 I have does from what I have read.