• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Wheel and Hubcentric wheel spacers worth it?

X

XJ96Classic

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Newport Beach, CA
I'm running some bfg at 31x10.5 on some ecco 15x7s RE 3.5 lift

Rubs like hell on the LCAs and very close the the leafs in the rear.

Question:
What kind to get?? I drive fairly fast on the freeway and they need to be balanced.

I see three types for sale one line..

1) cheep bolt on type (no recession of lip)
2) hub centric type ( have recession on back, but no lip in front)
3) hub and wheel centric type (have recession on back and lip on front) i.e.
spidertrax

Also is 1.25" really enough to avoid the LCAs? or should i get a 1.5 set i see on ebay.
 
X2 on buying the proper wheels versus spacers! Steel wheel are also much stronger than aluminum wheels...you could probably sell your current wheels for more than it would cost to purchase a nice set of steel wheels!
 
I am running 15x8 canyons (32" Muds) with 1.25" Spidertrax. They shouldn't hit the control arms after install even at full lock. I have been running these for a couple years with no problems whatsoever. Only issue will be if you break a shaft, breaking red loctite to swap them to spare shaft can sometimes be a pain on the trail. (better offset wheels are better in this case of course). I know one friend running cheap (hub centric only) spacers...hasn't had any issues with balance or any other problems. I just personally trust Spidertrax quality compared to the ebay ones.
 
Peregrine said:
I am running 15x8 canyons (32" Muds) with 1.25" Spidertrax. They shouldn't hit the control arms after install even at full lock. I have been running these for a couple years with no problems whatsoever. Only issue will be if you break a shaft, breaking red loctite to swap them to spare shaft can sometimes be a pain on the trail. (better offset wheels are better in this case of course). I know one friend running cheap (hub centric only) spacers...hasn't had any issues with balance or any other problems. I just personally trust Spidertrax quality compared to the ebay ones.
Click to expand...

would the canyons have the same backspacing as a 15x7 jeep rim.. like the eccos? SO.... the spidertrax would only work with a stock jeep rim if they are wheel centric??
 
Blaine B. said:
X2 on buying the proper wheels versus spacers! Steel wheel are also much stronger than aluminum wheels...you could probably sell your current wheels for more than it would cost to purchase a nice set of steel wheels!
Click to expand...

sigh.

i've never bent a rim. and i've been running ebay spacers w/o issues (well, there was one issue, but that was bc the kid who sold them to me didnt tell me he fawked one up and "fixed" it).
 
I've been running billet wheel adapters from Performance Wheel (1.25") with Jeep 15x7 Sport and Rubi Moab 16x8 wheels for.........7 years? Same set, never had an issue with them.

I would not go with a 1.5" adapter, you'll likely wind up with fender rub instead of LCA rub. With a 15x7 Jeep wheel which has 5.25" back spacing, running a 1.25" billet adaper will net you 4" of total BS, which is good for stuffing a tire when flexing.
 
XJ96Classic said:
would the canyons have the same backspacing as a 15x7 jeep rim.. like the eccos? SO.... the spidertrax would only work with a stock jeep rim if they are wheel centric??
Click to expand...

I believe they are the same 5.25 backspacing...by the canyons are 1" wider than Eccos. I have seen other guys run Spidertrax on aftermarket rims in the past with apparently no problems. Might want to call Spidertrax on that one to be sure.
 
Peregrine said:
I believe they are the same 5.25 backspacing...by the canyons are 1" wider than Eccos. I have seen other guys run Spidertrax on aftermarket rims in the past with apparently no problems. Might want to call Spidertrax on that one to be sure.
Click to expand...

If they both have the same backspacing.. then the canyons.. and moabs.. etc would use that 1" on the outside..... I was wondering if that 1" Was split up .5" on eiter side .. thus changing the backspacing.. NP.. thanks for the info
 
XJEEPER said:
I've been running billet wheel adapters from Performance Wheel (1.25") with Jeep 15x7 Sport and Rubi Moab 16x8 wheels for.........7 years? Same set, never had an issue with them.

I would not go with a 1.5" adapter, you'll likely wind up with fender rub instead of LCA rub. With a 15x7 Jeep wheel which has 5.25" back spacing, running a 1.25" billet adaper will net you 4" of total BS, which is good for stuffing a tire when flexing.
Click to expand...

Some good info.. thanks..

Im not really concerned with the rubbing somuch on the fenders.. I had some 32x11.5 MTRs on there with a soft 8 15x8... which i think had 4" BS and those didnt rub anywhere.. and stuffed amazingly well.

Now that Im doing some serious road driving.. just went from CA to SC to CT last week.. I needed the street tires 31x10.5 BFG AT on the 15x7s . . . looks so stock it hurts my eyes. . .
 
Just so we're on the same sheet of music;

Hub-centric means the wheel is located via the hub on the vehicle and the center cutout in the wheel.

Lug-centric means the wheel is located via all 5 lug nuts tightening in the oversize holes that the lug studs go through. There are also different types of lug centric (nuts) such as cone (most prevalent) and ball (usually euro) and others.

I used www.wheeladapter.com , this guy knows his wheels. The jeep is lug-centric but I had him add a center lip on the adapter that also holds the wheels hub-centric. Did this mostly for strength.

Oh, BTW, steel wheels are not necessarily stronger than aluminum. Steel wheels will accept hits and usually just bend. Cast aluminum wheels (99% of the junk out there) will chip, crack, or just break off pieces. A forged aluminum wheel will not break, given enough inpact it will bend. Of course most folks won't spring for a good forged wheel, so steel may be a better cheap alternative.
 
Shogun said:
Just so we're on the same sheet of music;

Hub-centric means the wheel is located via the hub on the vehicle and the center cutout in the wheel.

Lug-centric means the wheel is located via all 5 lug nuts tightening in the oversize holes that the lug studs go through. There are also different types of lug centric (nuts) such as cone (most prevalent) and ball (usually euro) and others.

I used www.wheeladapter.com , this guy knows his wheels. The jeep is lug-centric but I had him add a center lip on the adapter that also holds the wheels hub-centric. Did this mostly for strength.

Oh, BTW, steel wheels are not necessarily stronger than aluminum. Steel wheels will accept hits and usually just bend. Cast aluminum wheels (99% of the junk out there) will chip, crack, or just break off pieces. A forged aluminum wheel will not break, given enough inpact it will bend. Of course most folks won't spring for a good forged wheel, so steel may be a better cheap alternative.
Click to expand...

I was wondering if these hub-centric design spacers.. such as the ones offered by spidertrax would then only fit a jeep wheel.. or are all wheel center holes the same diameter.... i didn't think so . And they have a recession in the back for the hub as well as the lip for the well.

Would you mind telling me what you paid for the set of 4 you picked up?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
XJ Overland build plan, need a sanity check.
Replies
16
Views
6K
jeep ride
J
M
JK Moab 17" Wheel Advice
Replies
12
Views
2K
75SV1
7
N
2000 XJ, high miles, lots of new parts, still have vibration
Replies
10
Views
1K
N8N_99xj
N
A
RHD front drive shaft
Replies
1
Views
816
Unclewolverine
U
C
New Jeep...new problems!
Replies
0
Views
284
CheapJerokee
C
Back
Top