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Cherokee DoubleCardan-Rezeppa (Double CV shaft) ???

D

Deadman 94 xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Like most lifted XJs I'm having some trouble with the front pinion angle. I had to find a "happy medium" to keep castor somewhat in spec and as a result I have some vibes up front.

I know that the economical solution to this is to rotate the C's but being that this is a D30 and the fact that I don't feel like another project, I'm looking at other options.

Tom Woods offeres the Cherokee DoubleCardan-Rezeppa which has a CV joint at the pinion as well as at the transfercase.

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

It runs a wapping $479.00 plus $60 for the new yoke.

I've tried to find somebody running this setup with no results. What I want to know, money aside, is how well this setup holds up and are there aditional vibes because of the added wieght?

Thanks

I'm at ~6.5-7"
 
I too have the same issue. Any info would be super helpful!!
 
Years ago when I did my sye I asked Tom Woods about it.
He said with most applications it's too much weight for the pinion, and wouldn't recomend it for a daily driver.
 
I know one person over here that used the same style driveshaft in a rear application when fitting a Toyota Landcruiser 80 series rear axle (slightly offset to one side). He didn't mention any problems with it and I quizzed him a lot about the swap!

It's a different application I know but I thought I'd just throw the information in there.
 
agent98 said:
Have you considered offset ball joints to gain a few more degrees?
Click to expand...

No, I forgot about those. IIRC they're only about 2-3*. I have to measure my angles again but I'm thinking it won't be enough. Although, it might be just enough to reduce the vibes.

I called TW and he said the same as posted above, that some people get vibes due to the extra weight. He said they usually start at about 70mph. Mine start at ~65 and for that much cash it's not worth the trial & error.

I'm going to call a few other driveline shops and see what they have to say. I'll post back up if I get anywhere.
 
I PMed Vetteboy a while back about the caster vs. pinon angle issue on a D30 without rotating the Cs.

I mentioned the use of a single cardan driveshaft with a slip joint in the middle. Since the ideal yoke angles would need to be parallel to each other, you could drop the D30 pinion down to get the correct angle thereby gaining back tolerable caster.

I just don't know how to find the right length single cardan driveshaft cheaply somewhere. I'm thinking of taking a stock XJ front, removing the double cardan joint, and having a shop lengthen it.
 
MoparManiac said:
I PMed Vetteboy a while back about the caster vs. pinon angle issue on a D30 without rotating the Cs.

I mentioned the use of a single cardan driveshaft with a slip joint in the middle. Since the ideal yoke angles would need to be parallel to each other, you could drop the D30 pinion down to get the correct angle thereby gaining back tolerable caster.

I just don't know how to find the right length single cardan driveshaft cheaply somewhere. I'm thinking of taking a stock XJ front, removing the double cardan joint, and having a shop lengthen it.
Click to expand...

Very good thought! You're right on about the angles of the single cardan shafts. I could match the pinion angle with the transfer case output angle and be good to go in theory.

The only problem I see is having too steep of an angle on that shaft. Isn't that why we do SYEs in the first place?

I'll look into it.
Thanks.
 
Idk if there is some reason that this cant be done, or wont solve the problem. but cant you just put lock out hubs on it and stop the front shaft from spinning all the time. do you really use 4wd at a speeds of 65mph that often any way. unless your jeepspeed or something. again I might be missing something, but this seems to be the best idea to me.
 
chedisme said:
Idk if there is some reason that this cant be done, or wont solve the problem. but cant you just put lock out hubs on it and stop the front shaft from spinning all the time. do you really use 4wd at a speeds of 65mph that often any way. unless your jeepspeed or something. again I might be missing something, but this seems to be the best idea to me.
Click to expand...

Its a great idea, it just costs a sh*t ton of money to put lock out hubs onto a D30.
 
^^ What he said. I could just do like some and remove the front shaft untill it's needed but that's not a solution to me.

I'm really just toying with ideas here. I know there is a way to do this correctly. It's just a matter of doing it.

After all, I am the king of bolt-ons...
 
Deadman 94 xj said:
Very good thought! You're right on about the angles of the single cardan shafts. I could match the pinion angle with the transfer case output angle and be good to go in theory.

The only problem I see is having too steep of an angle on that shaft. Isn't that why we do SYEs in the first place?

I'll look into it.
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Vetteboy doesn't max out the 1310s with a LP60, flat belly pan, and a clocked up t-case. He can probably elaborate further.

Begster said:
Its a great idea, it just costs a sh*t ton of money to put lock out hubs onto a D30.
Click to expand...

That's why I was looking into this in the first place.
 
I called up http://www.carolinadriveline.com/ who I've ordered from in the past and who made my rear DS.

He said there are two options, the double/double CV ($370 / referred to in the first post) and something about a cross pin U-joint at the pinion. I'm not sure I understand the cross pin joint setup but he said it's a little more forgiving than the standard u-joint at the pinion. They were offered on some Jeep vehicles. Maybe the 5.2? IDK, maybe one of you can elaborate. Instead of the u-bolts is has six bolts to hold the joint in place.

The double/double CV, according to him, will vibrate if there's not enough angle to keep everything in sink. He said that some guys will run them on lifts below 4" and experience vibes. So the bigger the lift/angle, the more efficient that style of shaft is.

FWIW, anything I try that doesn't work can be returned for a full refund.

I'll do some more searching and see about the single cardan setup up front.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Do you have a SYE kit or a TC drop kit?Also YJ's run a std 2 joint shaft in front,might look into that!
 
RCP Phx said:
Do you have a SYE kit or a TC drop kit?Also YJ's run a std 2 joint shaft in front,might look into that!
Click to expand...

A SYE.

I looked into it. YJs run a disco D30 so they they can get away with it. Most YJ guys swap out the single cardan shafts for XJ TJ shafts when they updrade axles.
 
correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the yoke on the D30 also sets the preload for the pinion bearings. by changing the yoke to fit this driveshaft, you'd also need to put a new crush sleeve in...

i really think it would be easier to cut and turn the inner C's... nevermind a whole helluva lot cheaper.
 
asp387 said:
correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the yoke on the D30 also sets the preload for the pinion bearings. by changing the yoke to fit this driveshaft, you'd also need to put a new crush sleeve in...

i really think it would be easier to cut and turn the inner C's... nevermind a whole helluva lot cheaper.
Click to expand...

Yeah, F it. I'm done. It's probably the damn shaft thats out of wack anyway LOL.

Either that or everybody else at my lift height is dealing with the same issue.

Thanks for the help.
 
asp387 said:
correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the yoke on the D30 also sets the preload for the pinion bearings. by changing the yoke to fit this driveshaft, you'd also need to put a new crush sleeve in...

i really think it would be easier to cut and turn the inner C's... nevermind a whole helluva lot cheaper.
Click to expand...

You dont need to touch the pinion yoke,its the yoke at the TC that needs changed and it doesnt have a pre-load.
 
that's what i get for half-reading stuff. good call, my bad.
 
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