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Rock slider instalation

F

Flexeral

NAXJA Forum User
Location
albany, ny
I am currently fabricating rock sliders similar to the ones offered by JCOFFROAD.

http://jcroffroad.com/install_guides/XJ%20Super%20Sliders.pdf

I'm going to mount them by bolting onto the pinch seam but can't decide how to attach to the unibody. JCOFFROAD uses 3/8" self tapping bolts.

I have 2 questions

1) is it better to use the self tapping bolts or weld to the unibody?

At the moment I plan to bolt them because I don't have the option to weld dirrectly to the jeep since I am using the universities student machine shop. Sooo.. if its not recomended then I will bolt them for now and then weld them on the first chance I get.

1.5) Where would my best bet for ordering / picking up some 3/8'' self tapping bolts? Do they have to be a specific type fof steel? (HS?)

2) What would a be a good (but cheap) primer and paint to use? I might have access to a paint gun, but am not sure. One of my buddies recomended using rustolium primer and paint. (the metal used was scap and it would take for ever to get it down to shinny metal)

I just don't want rust to start bubbling up in a few years. What would you recomend?
 
I used the supplied self threading bolts. I've beat the living snot out of my JCR stage 2 sliders and, they've held up wonderful.

Get some self etching primer. Get a couple coats of the SE primer and then the topcoat of your choice. I used Rustoleum Satin black.

Welcome to NAXJA! :wave:
 
Most people use self tapping screws available at the hardware store. Just be sure to carefully pre-drill the mounting holes slightly undersized. Another option is to drill through the frame rail and sleeve the mounting bolts. Welding is too permanent especially if you might be making future modifications to the Jeep.

RustOlem is cheap and easy to touch up. POR-15 is a better choice for areas that use salt on icy roads.
 
I'm using the self-tappers, and plan to have a buddy pop a little spot weld on the bolt so they can't back out. Easy enough to grind off if I want to remove them.

Wiped 'em down with acetone, used 1 can of black metal primer, then another can of Rustoleum Hammered for the finish
 
Flexeral said:
Self tapping screws and rustoleum paint and primer it is

Thanks guys :)
Click to expand...

Primer is different than self-etching primer. You want to use self-etching primer. SE Primer has an acid in it that actually eats itself into the metal for good adhesion. You can find it at most auto parts stores in spray bomb form.
 
A 3/8" self tapper is a tough fastner. I have them on my on my TC skid plate and have beat the living shi* out of them. Actually destroyed a factory crossmember and the skid and self tapers never budged. I think I used a 5/16 bit for mine. It was a good size.
 
I used Nut-serts on both my rigs,no movement in over 6yrs.
 
i too am making rock sliders and was curious if they HAVE to bolt to the pinch seam. Right now I have 2.5" x.120" wall square tubing running to the frame with a 1/4" flange with 4 bolts. These bolts are 1/2" and run through the frame to a backing plate with nuts. The frame is sleeved for each bolt.

Do i NEED to bolt to the pinch seam?
 
benulis55 said:
Do i NEED to bolt to the pinch seam?
Click to expand...

Man I would. I bought a used set that were not. So, I fabed up a 6-8" section on both legs that would bolt to the pinch seam. That made them VERY stiff. Now after wheeling the crap out it, I wishI had made a peice to bolt to the entire length of the pinch seam. I have short jeep syndrome (runnin 31's) so I used the rails often. :wave1: I have bent the pinch seam up and actually smashed a rock rail into the rocker panel:tears:

P6180354.jpg
 
benulis55 said:
Do i NEED to bolt to the pinch seam?
Click to expand...


Basicly the pinch seam is what keeps it sturdy up and down, and the frame bolts keep it from moving side to side. not having either will make it conciderably weaker
 
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