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Changing trans mount on Treks Y-Link

V

vagrant

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I spoke with a local shop who has done a lot of Y-Links and they said they have never had to drop the crossmember on a Y-Link equipped XJ to do the trans mount. Mine is shot and the transfer case hits the crossmember and the whole jeep vibrates to no end.

Also doing motor mounts. I figure if I jack up the motor with the mounts uninstalled and then jack up the trans with the mount disco'd I can jack things up high enough to do the swap. Anything is better than removing the crossmember as I dont have a lift or jackstands tall enough to hold the vehicle at the frame. Any ideas?
 
You might call TNT and see if they have any advice for the task too. Bob is pretty strait forward with information.
 
I just hate to bother them with silly phone calls. On a forum it's "leisurely" to post up and reply. On the phone it can be annoying to them as they are probably working hard and fabricating stuff.
 
on a side not, has anyone changed their t-case fluid with the TNT/Treks belly skid? it's almost time for me to change mine and the skid completely covers the t-case drain hole. do you take the skid off, or just let the fluid spill all over the skid an wipe off?
 
there's a hole in the skidplate where it will drain out. i then use brake cleaner to clean up the excess ATF.

always remove the fill plug first then the drain plug or you could end up stranded if the drain plug won't budge. i use a drop of anti-seize on the plugs and it works well.
 
i changed the mounts. now the vibes are worse and the transfer case is resting directly on the skid plate crossmember. i pried up on it with a flat bar and it barely moved, maybe 1/4 inch of travel.

To isolate the vibration, i started it up and go under the truck and pushed up on the t-case with my foot and the vibration disappeared so it's definitely the transfer case hitting the skid. everything is installed correctly. My buddy says to put a hockey puck under the t-case and let it rest on that, but i want to fix this properly. Anyone seen anything like this? I have 4.0L, AW4, and 231.
 
vagrant said:
there's a hole in the skidplate where it will drain out. i then use brake cleaner to clean up the excess ATF.

always remove the fill plug first then the drain plug or you could end up stranded if the < drain plug > won't budge. i use a drop of anti-seize on the plugs and it works well.
Click to expand...


i hope you mean fill plug, not drain plug
 
bluejeepkid said:
i hope you mean fill plug, not drain plug
Click to expand...

get fill plug out first then drain plug or you will be stranded unless you have another vehicle or friend/family to take you to get tools or whatever. you can drive it with the fill plug out but you can't drive it with the drain plug out! that's my point.
 
I can't fit a hockey puck under the transfer case to even try that. might be able to wedge a rubber floor mat under it. wonder why it's hitting in the first place. the mount is the correct part number, same size and style as the stock mount i had on it before and that old mount didn't let the t-case hit it was about 1/2" higher.

I'm trying to figure out how to eliminate this vibe because i can't think of anything else to stick between there to stop it from hitting.
 
vagrant said:
get fill plug out first then drain plug or you will be stranded unless you have another vehicle or friend/family to take you to get tools or whatever. you can drive it with the fill plug out but you can't drive it with the drain plug out! that's my point.
Click to expand...
drove mine with no atf in it for like 6000 mi. Came that way from the jy. Finally got around to checking it and realized was empty. filled it ran it for like 10000 mi tell I found a cheep replacement.
 
yeah? that's amazing. a testament to the New Process engineering team. i had an 208 that ran dry for 500 miles and it locked up and exploded into pieces. also had a dana 300 that ran for less than 5 miles on very low fluid before it chewed itself up. the gears were virtually welded together.

any ideas on my t-case touching skid issue? i'm basically drawing a blank. just spend 3 hours putting the motor mounts and trans mount in and it didn't solve the problem. it's possible this was the problem the whole time only now it's worse with the new mounts. haha sh__ happens.
 
vagrant said:
any ideas on my t-case touching skid issue? i'm basically drawing a blank. just spend 3 hours putting the motor mounts and trans mount in and it didn't solve the problem. it's possible this was the problem the whole time only now it's worse with the new mounts. haha sh__ happens.
Click to expand...

i had an issue with my 242 belly, i just cut a small piece off the lowered tcase skid portion without hitting the welds. maybe a .25"x.25"x1" piece.
 
93XJLI said:
i had an issue with my 242 belly, i just cut a small piece off the lowered tcase skid portion without hitting the welds. maybe a .25"x.25"x1" piece.
Click to expand...

do you have a picture of this? i can't see what you're referring to.
 
I cut a piece off my old michelin tire that exploded and stuck it under the t-case we'll see if that solves it!
 
Seriously, call Bob! If it is an issue with his design, he needs to know about it so he can fix it and modify his design so others don't go through the same crap that you've been going through. Maybe he has already had to deal with this and can point you in the right direction? After talking with him quite a bit last year in Moab, I can assure you, he has no problem talking to customers who are having difficulties with the setup.
 
tysonxj said:
I have the same problem on mine w/ 242.
I suppose I will make a shim for under the tranny mount?
Click to expand...


Is your trans mount new/in good shape?

I found an old tire in my garage and used a cut off wheel and cut a piece of it out into a square and wedged it under the transfer case on the top of the skid. Most of the vibes are gone and no more noises. Actually, I am thinking of doing poly mounts as I've been told the poly mounts sit higher and eliminate the problem but you'll have vibrations, mostly at idle or under heavy throttle application. The way I see it is like this, I have vibes so what's the difference? Might as well do poly and never have to touch the mount again.

Damned if you do, damned if you don't I guess. Worst case scenario I can get the "torque strap arm" out of a YJ with NP231 and use that to control the movement somewhat. Anyone done that? Also, how about poly mounts? Anyone think it's unbearable? I just don't want damaging vibrations or harmonics to destroy my drivetrain. The noise ain't the issue. :cheers:
 
FIXED!!

If you are getting this problem after changing mounts on motor and trans, check the exhaust bushing at the trans mount area. If that bushing is worn at all the exhaust will jump up and down and cause the t-case/trans to contact things. Even with new mounts mine was doing this. Once I fixed the exhaust bushing and raised up the exhaust slightly (new tailpipe installed so it put pressure upward on the bushing) the trans mount (which was replaced along with motor mounts) stopped allowing the t-case to hit the skid plate.

Of course, because my t-case is just so close to the skid I had to keep the piece of tire between the t-case and mount to dampen the noise... A lot of work for something so simple, but it won't be coming back even if the mounts go bad, I still won't hear the banging noises again unless it shears the mounting bolts completely off! party1:party1:
 
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