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questions concerning the ranger 8.8 and dana 60...

M

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
my buddy said he wanted to do a limited slip in the rear end of his 2wd ranger... i told him why dont you just swap in a locker... he said no i'd rather goto a junk yard and buy an explorer or 4wd ranger rear end with one already in it and just swap it out

it has 4.10 gears in it already i'd just need to redo my front D30, i bet i could get his for under 200 dollars would that be a wise choice? i have a 8.25 already and i dont know hardly anything about axles so i'd like some advice i searched for ranger 8.8 and no luck. i also searched for a dana 60 but nothing i was really looking for which brings me to my next question

apparently my dad has a trailer out back that we've had for the last 15 years or more that supposedly has a dana 60 under it, would that be worth my trouble? or being full width would it be alot of work to get it to work? and if i went full width in the rear i'd have to do the front too and get either another dana 60 or maybe a dana 44...

i did my searches on this a little and i didnt want to do a google search. can anyone point me in a good direction?

my 2000 xj currently has the low pinion d30 up front and chrysler 8.25 in the rear, im not looking to go any higher than 4.5", my idea is to do a RE 3.5 superflex and 31's for now, so i dont know if i want 33's yet or not... im also going to lock out the rear and probably the front cuz i have issues from lack of tracton, so would it be easier and cheaper to just stay with what i got for axles + the lift/lockers/crane diff covers.? i dont do hardcore rock crawling, just moderate trail runs, occational mud, lots of sand and snow, i'll do more aggressive trails like calico with the lift, lockers, and diff covers, just for now with what i am working with its all i want to do.

any positive information would be great, thanks
sorry if i didnt look in depth enough on the subject to find my answers.
 
The D60 is not a bolt in.

The 8.8 is not a bolt in.

Why would something from an completly different vehicle bolt into a Cherokee?

A D60 rear with 33's is a waste of time, not to mention its full width, and probably 30 spline, or even 19 spline.

The 8.8 is a common swap. Check out RuffStuff Specialties for an 'install' kit. Get a yoke adapter for your driveshaft.

There is tons of info on the 8.8 swap floating around.
 
alright thanks, i'll pass on either or, i looked a little more and it appears the 8.25 will be plenty for a 31's and maybe 33's, i'll be locked in the rear, but that shouldnt matter im not a hard wheeler
 
CanMan said:
The D60 is not a bolt in.

The 8.8 is not a bolt in.

Why would something from an completly different vehicle bolt into a Cherokee?

A D60 rear with 33's is a waste of time, not to mention its full width, and probably 30 spline, or even 19 spline.

The 8.8 is a common swap. Check out RuffStuff Specialties for an 'install' kit. Get a yoke adapter for your driveshaft.

There is tons of info on the 8.8 swap floating around.
Click to expand...

x2.

With your kind of wheeling, why not try a d35?
:gee:
 
CanMan said:
Why would something from an completly different vehicle bolt into a Cherokee?
Click to expand...

x2. hasta. hey, i can get the rear window and trunk from an 87 toyota corolla for free. can i swap it into my XJ?
 
MaxxXJ said:
cuz a d35 is not as good as a 8.25, the dana 60's free and the 8.8 is almost free.
Click to expand...

So everything free bolts into a cherokee?
Hmmm... So I can run dualie rims and tires off my 8.8?
How would a part made a completely different company that's as big and important as an axle just BOLT right in?


:rtm:
Search. You've been here long enough, you know the routine by now.
 
lock your axles, put the 3.5" super flex on run 33s and rock out!
 
For your needs, I'd say find a HP D30. It'll keep the pinion higher out of the muck and rocks and is a little stronger than the LP D30. Keep the 8.25, you should have the 29 spline shafts/carrier in your 2000. That's a very desirable axle in a non-hardcore XJ. Like has been said, it'll last for what you want to do. 33s, locker, 4.56s or 4.88s, it'll be good. An 8.8 is almost the exact width, it's off by like an inch or so I think. You will need new spring pads. A D60 is just friggin huge and if you never go past 33s, it'll be a rock anchor.

Like XJ Ranger posted, the Axle FAQ thread has lots of good info on strength comparisons.
 
Last edited:
Darky said:
For your needs, I'd say find a HP D30. It'll keep the pinion higher out of the muck and rocks and is a little stronger than the LP D30. Keep the 8.25, you should have the 29 spline shafts/carrier in your 2000. That's a very desirable axle in a non-hardcore XJ. Like has been said, it'll last for what you want to do. 33s, locker, 4.56s or 4.88s, it'll be good.

Like XJ Ranger posted, the http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...ht=axles+rocks]Axle FAQ[/url] thread has lots of good info on strength comparisons.
Click to expand...

yeah yeah yeah.. about the only reason (if i was him) i would waste my money to swap a hp 30 in would be if i had BAD driveshaft vibrations. i have been running a lp 30 out of a tj with 4.56s and a lock rite running 35s on it and i have only lost the driveshaft to the rocks a couple of times other than that is has been holding up great!

and i wouldnt waste your money on the 8.8 swap. keep your 8.25. they are pretty much equal strength wise. only differece would be the 8.8 has disc brakes. but in your case the ranger has drums.
 
256offroad said:
yeah yeah yeah.. about the only reason (if i was him) i would waste my money to swap a hp 30 in would be if i had BAD driveshaft vibrations. i have been running a lp 30 out of a tj with 4.56s and a lock rite running 35s on it and i have only lost the driveshaft to the rocks a couple of times other than that is has been holding up great!

and i wouldnt waste your money on the 8.8 swap. keep your 8.25. they are pretty much equal strength wise. only differece would be the 8.8 has disc brakes. but in your case the ranger has drums.
Click to expand...

WHAT!? The 8.8 is stronger than a D44!
 
veedubshafer said:
WHAT!? The 8.8 is stronger than a D44!
Click to expand...
are you going off of personal experience or just what you read on the interweb?

because from my experience i have seen more d44s hold up just as good if not better than an 8.8.

i would choose my dana 44(detroit stock shafts, discs and 4.56s) over any 8.8 any day on my home turf.

i just HATE c clip axles.
 
yeah, well not personal experience but somewhat personal with my buddies that I wheel with. There is one of us (about to be 2...me) that runs an 8.8 and wheels arguably the hardest out of all of us and NEVER has a failure with the 8.8. A few of the others are constantly breaking d44 shafts. We all run stock shafts and fully locked - and the 8.8 guy only runs lunchbox lockers - with 35's aired WAY down and never has carrier troubles either. Its a shortened (about 30")commanche with AW4 4.0 and 4.56's. Oh, and you can eliminate the c-clips on the 8.8 too.
 
C-CLip eliminator kit for the 8.8 and weld the tubes to the diff. The shafts have a much higher torque rating than the D44, closing in on the D60, based on torque ratings done by Warn.
The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

And there are 35 spline upgrades available as well.
 
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