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Building long arms/crossmember???

kmanxj5050

NAXJA Forum User
is it worth it to you guys? If you had a welder etc.

were would you order ends? what ends would you use?

what would you do for a crossmember?

and any other info

thanks guys:passgas:

just trying to gain some general info here guys;)
 
depends on what style arms you want.

3 link?

4 link?

radius arm/y link?

wristed radius?
 
depends on what style arms you want.
3 link?
4 link?
radius arm/y link?
wristed radius?
X2. We need much more information.
I'll add:
- Do you mind cutting the floor?
- How much lift?
- What is your budget?

I just finished setting up my front 3-link. Look in the last few pages (currently anyway) of my build thread for more information (link). I'd be glad to answer any questions.
 
whats a wristed radius?
 
its more popular with fords. its when you take the ford radius arms and modify one side so the arm can pivot as opposed to having the radius arm bushings taking up all the bind.

on a jeep, its basically a y link with one upper removed. some have argued with me that this is not a wristed radius arm, but it performs, works, and act's like one.

I have actually wheeled with a guy who had a dakota with a y link, but in place of one of the upper arms was a shock, he said it really minimized body roll for him on the street, something i have wanted to try for a while, but i have too many other projects ahead of it.
 
really i am shooting for the cheapest possible (arent we all lol) But i started this thread for me but also everyone. I mean no limits here. Let's see what you have, how much you have into it etc. , etc.

I am really trying to gather ideas for me and everyone else ;)
 
Honestly how much experience do you have welding and metal fabrication? Unless you have 100% confidence in your ability to do the fabrication yourself, I wouldn't even think about attempting it. You'll end up with more headache than what it's worth, not to mention that if something breaks it could very well kill you or someone else.

I also built my own 4 link and I've only spent about $500. All the steel was free (one of the perks of working a fab shop), so most of the cost was in Heims and tube ends. However, if your looking for the absolute cheapest and easiest setup to build, I'd go for a TNT style Y link setup. IMO most of your focus should be making the crossmember fit properly and attach securely enough so that it won't move around under heavy braking. Welding tube ends, and building the links should be no problem if you know what your doing.

Hope that helps at all.
 
I can do the welding for you Kman. Just bring it over to our lab. I wouldn't mind setting up a fixture either so I could fab them and sell them.
 
No thanks,weve already seen what your capable of ! Apples dont fall far from the tree!
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=989715

My welding and fab skills are top notch. I go to school with Kman. He knows I have to be a good welder and fabricator to go to this school. Why do you think he told me to fab up some for mine and copy them for him. And you can eff off. You have no right degrading me. I have done nothing wrong. All I did was post up a picture for fun and constructive comments. You have no reason to judge me on a personal level.
 
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yeah i agree i have seen the welding programs work top notch

and i would pretty much go with a radius arm but that wasnt really the goal of this thread i wanted to see all kinds of setups pics and a lil info
 
My welding and fab skills are top notch. I go to school with Kman. He knows I have to be a good welder and fabricator to go to this school. Why do you think he told me to fab up some for mine and copy them for him. And you can eff off. You have no right degrading me. I have done nothing wrong. All I did was post up a picture for fun and constructive comments. You have no reason to judge me on a personal level.

I have no reason to judge. However, you might as well post up some pics of your work if it's "top notch."

Honestly I've yet to see someone from a tech school be a "top notch" fabricator while they are still in tech school. Not that they don't exist, but I've interviewed enough to disagree.
 
First of all.. You must buy a welder. I have a 110 Hobart Handler 140 which is a great machine. Learning to weld takes a few days., you will get better ad time goes by. For anyone who is creative and handy building things at home is fun and will save you thousands of dollars. You can build a custom crossember for $50. I have built two.. My first long arm crossmember was a modified OEM crossmember with long arm mounts.

You can take a stock crossmember and customize it to include long arm mounts. It's not hard work. Plan ahead, do sketches on paper, then start working.
You can buy brackets from Ballistic Fabrication which you weld to your crossmember. I shaved the bottom off my ctossmember and played the bottom side with 1/4 plate across. This plate needs to be welded very strong and then y
You can weld your bracketry to this heavy steel. Welding to the stock crossmember without any reinforcing isn't a good idea because the material is thin.

Once your long arm crossmember is finished, use grade 8 hardware to bolt it in place. Once your new mounts are in place.. You can then build your long arms. I recommend Y Link radius arms because they work well and you only need 2 rear mounting brackets.

Here is my first long arm crossmember, a modified OEM unit with Ballistic brackets and reinforcing. I ran this design in addition to a Rustys transfercase skid plate. I had no problems at all. This cost me approx $40 to make at home. The long arm length with this set up are a Y link design LCAs being 33" in length.

photo-22.jpg


Right now I am building a new, ultra beefy new custom crossmember/skid/long arm mounts. This new unit bolts through the frame rails, instead of up Into the frame rails. This new crossmember is moved back about 8" from the oem crossmember location. This new unit is very strong, supports the tranny & case and protects the transfercase and most importantly gives me a high clearance mounting location for my new long arms. NOTHING in this design hangs below the bottom of the frame rails. The goal when building a crossmember is to keep everything tucked up high inside the frame rails. There are many belly pan designs out there, but they are $400. I built this with steel from my garage, some 1/4 plate, 2x2 tubing, some 1.25" tube and a simple hand grinder with cutting wheel, a drill, and a Hobart welder.
It's a fun project but this xmember holds your entire front end in place! Spbit must be strong! Think about what u want, what your long arm end joints will be (poly, heim or flex) joints and the bolt size.
photo-36.jpg
 
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