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unit bearing

userbmx1315

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Dallas, NC
has anyone 'water proofed' thiers? any way to do it? water ruined both mine this weekend. they are only 6-7 months old.
 
They are sealed from the factory. Seems like the only way water could ruin them is if the seals were ruined, which usually doesn't happen until they get "loose" from age or abuse. Larger tires and less backspacing on wheels is hard on them and will wear them faster than stock wheels/tires, as will lots of rough trail time.
 
The biggest killer seems to be the hub nut not torqued correctly. A lot of people go to "tight" which is not tight enough, and they wear fast.

That, or buying cheap unit bearings. Buy Timken or don't bother.
 
The biggest killer seems to be the hub nut not torqued correctly. A lot of people go to "tight" which is not tight enough, and they wear fast.

That, or buying cheap unit bearings. Buy Timken or don't bother.

They dont make timken for composite unit bearings (pre 99.5).. If they do PLEASE point me in the right direction Cal!!!
 
They make them for both early and late.

Even if they didn't, you can run any hear hub with the matching rotor, so for $20 in rotors you'd be set.

I can find part numbers later, if you remind me.
 
They dont make timken for composite unit bearings (pre 99.5).. If they do PLEASE point me in the right direction Cal!!!
Sure, they do. I've used both Timken and SKF unit bearing hubs on my 94.

cal's right. It's rather important to get enough preload on the bearing by torquing the axle end nut enough. I sort of doubt you could overtorque it unless you use a 6' cheater pipe on a breaker bar.
 
I stand on the end of an 18" breaker bar and bounce up and down a bit, that usually feels about right. :)
 
Would it be less than 175f/lbs if the hubs are used? Or still the same torque?

Just asking because I'm going to throw a set used in mine.
 
IIRC, the FSM doesn't specify a different torque when remounting a bearing. Use 175 ft./lbs.
 
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