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1997 Country takes awhile to start

gone postal

NAXJA Forum User
Seems to have gotten worse over the last few weeks and is now having to turn over 15 times before it actually starts (which feels like a lifetime when holding the key and just sitting there). The Jeep runs fine, recent tune-up, new header, O2's, etc and no CEL. On my old '91, it was the check valve in fuel pump, so I did the BMW fix, but on this '97, the cycling key on/off to build up fuel pressure doesn't seem to help, so I'm kinda ruling that out.

I'm thinking it has to be some sort of sensor. The battery is only a few months old and although the starter I believe is original, it doesn't seem to be lacking in power. I'm also guessing that whatever it is, might (or hope) that it's the culprit to my poor mileage too - 11mpg on a budget boosted stock XJ. So, what would cause this? CPS? (which is the crank positioning sensor right? I always get that and cam sensor confused - can never remember the abbreviation for that.....)
 
CKP (crank position sensor) is most likely culprit. You could check to see if you have spark tight away while cranking. And yes, it is usually referred to on this sight as CPS, even though the Factory Service Manual (FSM) refers to the CPS as the Cam Position Sensor and the CKP as the Crank Position Sensor. Other possiblities to cause long cranking times might be coolant temp sensor and air intake sensor. ECU/PCM needs to know to richen the mixture for cold cranking.
 
The most common reason for longer starting cranking on a 1997-2001 is a failed check valve on the fuel pump assembly. A SEARCH using check valve as your search words will bring up a number of related threads. Or, you can look at the similar threads at the bottom of this page, scroll down. The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on the bell housing usually functions or is failed. If it is bad, no amount of cranking will start the engine until it is replaced.
 
The most common reason for longer starting cranking on a 1997-2001 is a failed check valve on the fuel pump assembly. A SEARCH using check valve as your search words will bring up a number of related threads. Or, you can look at the similar threads at the bottom of this page, scroll down. The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on the bell housing usually functions or is failed. If it is bad, no amount of cranking will start the engine until it is replaced.

gone postal said:
On my old '91, it was the check valve in fuel pump, so I did the BMW fix, but on this '97, the cycling key on/off to build up fuel pressure doesn't seem to help, so I'm kinda ruling that out.

Yeah, I know about that and don't think that's my issue....at least not yet.
 
You need some data to help isolate this. And because this smells of a fuel delivery problem to me, I would highly recommend you check fuel pressure numbers. 15 minutes of fuel pressure testing may help tell the story....

1. Check at the fuel rail COLD engine
2. Check with the key to the ON postion after fuel pump has energized and turned off
3. With engine idling

Report back what you find. If it is just an extended crank symptom after which it starts and runs smoothly (does it??), then the problem is not likely to be the crank sensor.

If fuel pressure checks out, don't completely give your battery a pass. New ones can fail prematurely; it happens more often than you think. Did you have an extended crank time before you installed the new battery? A marginal battery can absolutely result in an extended crank period. Load test your battery to be sure. Don't want to be chasing your tail...
 
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You can also test the resistance of the temp sensors when cold. Even in Florida, a cold start might need a little choke. Or sometimes the connections aren't good. Work the plugs on and off a few times.
 
Okay - gotta get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge.

I did have an issue where the temp gauge was fluctuating quite a bit and w/out any rhyme or reason. I had started to believe it was the sensor b/c the elec fan wouldn't kick on and the plug/harness was tight. I ended up unplugging it while running, blowing in it and plugged it back in making sure to push down hard so that it snapped on tight. I haven't had the temp gauge fluctuate since (and elec fan is working), but can't help but wonder if that sensor is going or possibly some wiring. It does seem to start faster once recently run, but that still leads me back to fuel or possibly temp sensor. I'll report back w/ my fuel pressure readings in a few days - gotta see if Autozone rents those.
 
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