Wheel Cylinders 9" drums universal?

Question. do the wheel cylinders fit either side or are they marked Left and Right?
I see different options at three different places.

9" drums don't take the same as the 10" it seems.

Brakeware part 30089 at autozone seems right, not directional.

Trutorque wheel cyl w37862 at advance they list a left and a right, but same part numbers.
just want to get the right parts.

also, the brake lines look real bad going into the cylinders, if I happen to break one, anyone know the part I'd be looking for?

thanks, B

1997 XJ country 4x4 4.0 auto, 9" drums on C8.25

I don't think it matters which side go where because when I did mine they never said left or right on them either. But im not 100% sure though. When my brake line blew right by where it goes into the cylinder. I just went to napa and got enough line so that i could cut off the part of the line that broke up until there wasn't any rust or anything. you can rent the tool that flares the end at napa to while your their if you don't have the tool. Try to get the green looking brake line to if you do end up having to do it. I think it bends a little easier.

9 inch drum wheel cylinders are the same for right and left. they are symmetrical, and interchangeable

10's are unique to each side, and will not interchange. mirror images.

So, got the wheel cylinders right, but ruined the threads on one side of the hard line going into the cylinder. won't thread back in.

searching reveals the center hose for the rear is available, but not the two hard lines going to each wheel.

Is that something that I'll have to buy tubing, bend and flare, or is there a dealer part number for the two hard lines from the junction with the diff vent to the wheels?

Take the line loose from the "T" block and measure it. Go down to napa and get the next longest line(pre-flared) If you want to be super neat about the install, rent the tool and cut/re-flare the line to make it the correct length. If you want to be cheap/quick/ugly, bend an "s" in the line to shorten it(don't kink it).

excellent,Thanks, precut lengths of that green coated easy bend stuff sound like the plan. they come with fittings on the end?- anyone know the size/thread?

3/8x24 fittings

i used a 51" and a 21" on my axle. got a big ol S-bend

How hard was the job? I've yet to replace a wheel cylinder, but one just started leaking yesterday.

The hardest part is to get the old line loose. You REALLY need a line wrench. Start spraying Breakaway (or whatever) on it now. No vicegrips. If it breaks loose from the wheel cylinder, be carefully that is has also broken away from the line or you'll twist it up. It is also a little tricky getting the line nut to restart in the wheel cylinder. Do not put a wrench to it until you have it well started by hand. If it won't start by hand, you have to bend the line slightly to let the nut sit square to the threads in the wheel cylinder. Sometimes you have to bend a little different a few times to get it to start by hand.

its only a hard job if you ruin a brakeline. Here's what often happens. The flare nut seizes to the brake line's flare, but does unthread from the wheel cylinder. If you want to save the brake line, remove the return springs, shoes, and adjuster cable to make clearance around the wheel cylinder.
Unbolt it from the backing plate. Now it should be loose, but hanging from the fitting.
Then pry off the rubber seals from each end of the cylinder, and rotate the cylinder off the brake line.
Then soak the brake line's flare with fluid or water, to break the rust weld and free the flare nut.

Or, bite off the line with wire cutters and replace it. I tossed my old lines, and it was a learning experience. Actually better to do it the hard way, and learn some new tricks.
I believe a hard line is only good for about 3 remates, and then its just plain worn. Not just the hex on the fitting, but the seating surface of the flare nut gets mushroomed out. Favorite trick, use a flare wrench, with vice grips clamped around it. Takes every bit of lash out of the wrench head. No more rounded corners.

got it done.
20" length of the easy bend Napa stuff worked perfectly for the left side ($6) left the right alone.

I didn't follow the factory bends exactly but got close enough to do the job. only concern is the line doesn't hug the axle tube quite as well, got a second length of tubing as a backup if this one rips off or starts rubbing.

BCParker said:

got it done.
20" length of the easy bend Napa stuff worked perfectly for the left side ($6) left the right alone.

I didn't follow the factory bends exactly but got close enough to do the job. only concern is the line doesn't hug the axle tube quite as well, got a second length of tubing as a backup if this one rips off or starts rubbing.

Click to expand...

nice, good job. but hopefully it doesn't rip off while your slowing down to make a left turn like mine did. it's not to fun.