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Alinement Help?

rehberg79

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Byron, Il
I just finished my lift this weekend, what a PITA. I got an alinement today and it really didnt help my problem. If I turn my wheels right or left my steering wheel wobbles kinda like it in 4 wheel drive but is not I checked. It feels like its binding up, Its worse backing up. I have no vibs driving straight at all speeds so I would think all my angles ae good. What could this be?

Lift is a 4.5 superflex...... 31" baja claws (these tires really suck)

Mat
 
Do you have any other tires to try? Just to eliminate part of the equation.
Also X2 on Baja claws. (I have 33” but they where free)
 
One thing I would do is to get a good view of the front end action while someone turns the steering right to left and look for problem areas. If your ball joints and bushings and TRE's worked marginally before, then your lift may have truly aggravated their action. Did you install longer sway bar links? Any binding evident? Do you like what you see with your tires and their clearance? Adjust LCA? Condition of steering damper? Any play anywhere it's not supposed to have play?
 
I could put the stock tires on and try that. I got RE discos, the problem wasnt there before the lift. I have my wife "HOP" into it and see what moves and dosent.
 
Go out with a tape measure and tow it out 1/8" to 3/16", ill bet your problem goes away. Alignment guys just do what they are told to do in school, and thats to set the alinement at dead 0, which doesnt work for most lifted jeeps which is the most likely cause of your wobble.
If it doesnt work then come back here and say so, and also post the specs of your lift.
 
Go out with a tape measure and tow it out 1/8" to 3/16", ill bet your problem goes away. Alignment guys just do what they are told to do in school, and thats to set the alinement at dead 0, which doesnt work for most lifted jeeps which is the most likely cause of your wobble.
If it doesnt work then come back here and say so, and also post the specs of your lift.

Tow it out, the front should be 1/8 to 3/16 shorter then the back
 
OK here it is (using a lug on the tire) front 61 3/8 rear 61 11/16

The lift is the RE 4.5 SF kit.
 
Front narrower than the back means your towed, according to your measurements towed in 5/16".
 
Front narrower than the back means your towed, according to your measurements towed in 5/16".

So Im towed to much? should I bring it back out?

I took of with out a print out, I was a little po'ed sitting there for 2.5 hours.
 
I just finished my lift this weekend, what a PITA. I got an alinement today and it really didnt help my problem. If I turn my wheels right or left my steering wheel wobbles kinda like it in 4 wheel drive but is not I checked. It feels like its binding up, Its worse backing up. I have no vibs driving straight at all speeds so I would think all my angles ae good. What could this be?

Lift is a 4.5 superflex...... 31" baja claws (these tires really suck)

Mat

What you described has me thinking U-joints. When my u-joints dry up and seize (mostly cuz of mud), it makes the steering wheel jerk back and forth when turning in forward or reverse. Pull out the axle shafts and try to bend them. See if there's any resistance. If you can't bend em at the joints, then you've found your problem.
 
I doubt this is a toe problem. I ran out to the sand dunes a couple weeks ago and I tried to measure my toe late at night before the trip; long story short I was way toed out like 1"+. I figured I would toe it in by eye so I did and I have been running it with slight toe in for a week and I can say it wanders less then when toe'd out. I never had any vibes. I would also ad that I did this trip about 100mi there toe,d out and 100 mi back toe,d in.

I would check to make sure everything is tight. First jack up one side just enough to get a long rod or pry bar under it, try to lift the front tire with the bar in a jerking motion, watch the hub bearings, and ball joints. if you notice play here have a friend continue to "jerk" the tire up and down while you put your hand on the ball (joint) and the hub to feel where the pop comes from.

I would then put your tire against a curb and have a helper turn the wheel into the curb in the same "jerking" fashion while you watch all the steering components. Also do the hand test to feel for pops if you see play. You can do this to both sides also.

I would also check u joints, and caster but I have no fancy tricks for that sorry.
 
But if it was a u-joint he would have been feeling it before the lift. Since the problem started immediately after the lift its more than likely something that was changed.
My vote is still towing it out 1/8th or so see if it goes away.
Otherwise get under it and check the control arms, trac bar, and all the steering and make sure everything is tight.
If its not that then id be back at that alignment shop asking for your print out and checking that your caster is right, but caster typically just makes it really darts or very slow to respond, so Id doubt it.
 
Ok, where is the best place to measure "toe"? I'm measuring on the tread of the tire, the bigger the tire the bigger the differance gets. So I got 5/16 form the tread on a 31" tire, is that good or bad. I had to replace the passengar side u-joint sunday when I pulled it out of the garage. So Friday I'll replace the driver side. I'll pick up an angle finder tomorrow and check my caster.

Anything else I should check.

Mat
 
If you can at the rim, but a lot of controll arms are right in the way, so as long as you are measuring and the same place both front and back youll be fairly close.
As stated above have someone sweep the tires lock to lock while you are under it looking for any movement.
 
If you can at the rim, but a lot of controll arms are right in the way, so as long as you are measuring and the same place both front and back youll be fairly close.
As stated above have someone sweep the tires lock to lock while you are under it looking for any movement.

You think I'm good at 5/16 or should I pull the back in some?
 
Like i said i would tow it OUT 1/8 or so. If it doesnt work you can alway set it right back where your allignment guy had it set at.
Basically towing it out typically puts just a little pressure on everything and helps stop the movement causing your wobble.
Make sure everything is tight first though.
 
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