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If I pull my front drive shaft will my gears in the front pumpkin turn?

9

90Pioneer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
96 XJ w/ a Dana 30 4.56 gears and ARB locker. Something is wrong inside the pumpkin making a loud banging noise.

If I remove my front drive shaft are my gears in the pumpkin going to turn and cause further damage until I can get it repaired?

If it they don't turn with no drive shaft, will I need to plug a hole or anything in the transfer case?
 
Gears will still turn as long as your tires are on the ground.

720 posts and you think there will be a hole in your transfer case if you take the DS out. haha
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
Gears will still turn as long as your tires are on the ground.

720 posts and you think there will be a hole in your transfer case if you take the DS out. haha
Click to expand...


I've read here that if I pull my rear drive shaft I would have to find a cap to cover the hole to not lose fluid.

I'm not currently laying under my jeep so I was not sure if the front would be the same.
 
No, for the front driveshaft, no matter what year, you can take it off and it will not cause any leaks. Pre 97 XJ's, which had an internal style slip yoke, will leak if you pull the rear shaft, as the case seals around the shaft.

As far as the front gears turning, yes, since you don't have manual hubs to lock and unlock, as long as the tires are turning, the inside gears will turn.

If you don't want them to turn, you will have to pull your hubs off, and remove the u-joints and inner axle shafts, so that there is nothing connecting your tires to your differential. I would stick something inside the axle tubes just in case, so nothing gets into there.

Make sure you leave the outer stub shafts in the hubs, or else they will fall apart and you will lose the front wheels.
 
Begster said:
No, for the front driveshaft, no matter what year, you can take it off and it will not cause any leaks. Pre 97 XJ's, which had an internal style slip yoke, will leak if you pull the rear shaft, as the case seals around the shaft.

As far as the front gears turning, yes, since you don't have manual hubs to lock and unlock, as long as the tires are turning, the inside gears will turn.

If you don't want them to turn, you will have to pull your hubs off, and remove the u-joints and inner axle shafts, so that there is nothing connecting your tires to your differential. I would stick something inside the axle tubes just in case, so nothing gets into there.

Make sure you leave the outer stub shafts in the hubs, or else they will fall apart and you will lose the front wheels.
Click to expand...
I have a feeling thats going to be waaay over his head lol
 
way to slam me instead of trying to help.... except for Begster, he posted something useful.


Thanks Begster!
 
All you have to do(for a temp fix),is pull the spider gears,you do have to re-install the crosshaft.
 
For the ones that are giving this guy a hard time, Back-Off and give him good advice or just don't post anything at all. This is the kind of crap that runs users/members away from this forum. Be productive not destructive.

We have all had to learn how to work on our junk, none of us were born XJ experts.

RCP Phx said:
All you have to do(for a temp fix),is pull the spider gears,you do have to re-install the crosshaft.
Click to expand...

This will work;

But to do this you will need to pull the carrier and then remove the ring gear(thats the only way the cross shaft will come out). The ring gear and carrier will need to be "marked" so that the ring gear goes back on in the same location. Also the bearing caps need to be marked as to which side they are on and which end is the top(these are machined matched sets).

There is really no "easy" way to keep the gears from moving.
 
So you didn't install any of that yourself?

Removing the driveshaft wont help, but if you did remove the front one no fluid would come out.

If there is banging in your diff and you moved it at all, most likely stuff in there is so XXXXed up it isn't going to matter what you do. This one is going to be expensive.
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
720 posts and you think there will be a hole in your transfer case if you take the DS out. haha
Click to expand...


.......because post count directly reflects ones technical, mechanical or

wheeling ability? :speepin:
 
R_jeep said:
.......because post count directly reflects ones technical, mechanical or

wheeling ability? :speepin:
Click to expand...

I would think it would reflect ones technical understanding/ability, and thats what hes asking about. All I'm saying is if you have spent enough time to rack up 720 posts on any forum you should know a little about what that forum deals with. Somebody is sure spending a lot of time in the off topic section I guess ...not that there is anything wrong with that.


Do you understand where I coming from R_jeep, or am I just talking out of my ass here?
 
xjtrailrider said:
But to do this you will need to pull the carrier and then remove the ring gear(thats the only way the cross shaft will come out). The ring gear and carrier will need to be "marked" so that the ring gear goes back on in the same location. Also the bearing caps need to be marked as to which side they are on and which end is the top(these are machined matched sets).

There is really no "easy" way to keep the gears from moving.
Click to expand...

Are you sure about this? Ring & pinion sets have the odd ratios they do because they're "hunting ratios" - each and every tooth on one gear makes contact with each and every tooth on the other each full revolution of the larger gear in order to prevent "wear-in" on any one part of the gear. That's why common ratios are numbers like 3.07:1, 3.54:1, 3.73:1, 4.55:1, ... Yeah, it can work out to get an even number on some sets (I think the Ford 9" has a 3.00:1, 4.50:1, and a couple of other oddities,) but those are still "hunting ratios" for those gearsets in that application.

It seems to me that if clocking a gearset where that important, there would be an offset "locating" screw hole on the carrier - and I can't recall ever seeing one. Granted, it has been a little while - but I'd think it would stick out, like the offset flywheel/flexplate screw hole you see on externally-balanced engines (where the relative position of the flywheel to the crankshaft is actually important. This is also common on internally-balanced engines where the flywheel is used to generate a sensor signal - like ours. Not universal, but common.)
 
xjtrailrider said:
For the ones that are giving this guy a hard time, Back-Off and give him good advice or just don't post anything at all. This is the kind of crap that runs users/members away from this forum. Be productive not destructive.

We have all had to learn how to work on our junk, none of us were born XJ experts.:rtm:



This will work;

But to do this you will need to pull the carrier and then remove the ring gear(thats the only way the cross shaft will come out). The ring gear and carrier will need to be "marked" so that the ring gear goes back on in the same location. Also the bearing caps need to be marked as to which side they are on and which end is the top(these are machined matched sets).

There is really no "easy" way to keep the gears from moving.
Click to expand...

He must leave the stub shafts in or his unit bearings will explode!! There really is no easy fix here!! I would just bite the bullet and have an expert look at it and fix it!!

As for the tards giving this guy a hard time, you need to learn some respect for all those that want to enjoy this sport!! Like xjtrailrider said none of you were born XJ experts you had to learn!! BUT my guess is you still have a lot of learning to do anyway concidering your stupid posts!!
 
ColoradoRaptor said:
He must leave the stub shafts in or his unit bearings will explode!! There really is no easy fix here!! I would just bite the bullet and have an expert look at it and fix it!!

As for the tards giving this guy a hard time, you need to learn some respect for all those that want to enjoy this sport!! Like xjtrailrider said none of you were born XJ experts you had to learn!! BUT my guess is you still have a lot of learning to do anyway concidering your stupid posts!!
Click to expand...

We all had to learn sooner or later - but the cornerstone of learning is not forgetting that you, once upon a time, had to learn yourself. And not forgetting that you're never done learning...

That aside, I'm thinking that the closest thing to an "easy" way to stop the front differential from turning altogether would be to pull the front driveshaft (so it won't get "drive" input) and the front inner axle shafts (so it won't get "driven" input.) Yes, you will have to leave the outer stubs in place - as mentioned, they provide support for your hub unit bearings, and the weight of the vehicle will pretty much grenade them if they're not supported from within. The inners and outers may be separated without dismounting the outers from the hub bearings, so that simplifies things slightly.

This would leave the differential geartrain in place (ring & pinion, spiders, side gears,) but you won't need to disturb the differential to isolate it.

Yes, finding something to plug the seals at the point where the inners have been removed is highly recommended - you do want to keep oil in the axle housing, don't you?

My best advice? Post in your local chapter to find someone close to you who can help identify the problem for you - beer & pizza is much cheaper than shop rates. If it's a simple fix, you're good. If it's not, at least you'll know more than you would otherwise, and it's harder for a shop to snow you. Hell - whoever you find locally might be able to help you fix it - or you help them, and you'll learn something while you're saving a few bucks! Be sure to take notes, and digital pictures don't usually go amiss either. How do you think most of us managed to learn?:wow:
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
I would think it would reflect ones technical understanding/ability, and thats what hes asking about. All I'm saying is if you have spent enough time to rack up 720 posts on any forum you should know a little about what that forum deals with. Somebody is sure spending a lot of time in the off topic section I guess ...not that there is anything wrong with that.


Do you understand where I coming from R_jeep, or am I just talking out of
my ass here?
Click to expand...


you ARE talking out of your ass.........and now you're backpedaling.
 
5-90 said:
Are you sure about this? Ring & pinion sets have the odd ratios they do because they're "hunting ratios" - each and every tooth on one gear makes contact with each and every tooth on the other each full revolution of the larger gear in order to prevent "wear-in" on any one part of the gear. That's why common ratios are numbers like 3.07:1, 3.54:1, 3.73:1, 4.55:1, ... Yeah, it can work out to get an even number on some sets (I think the Ford 9" has a 3.00:1, 4.50:1, and a couple of other oddities,) but those are still "hunting ratios" for those gearsets in that application.

It seems to me that if clocking a gearset where that important, there would be an offset "locating" screw hole on the carrier - and I can't recall ever seeing one. Granted, it has been a little while - but I'd think it would stick out, like the offset flywheel/flexplate screw hole you see on externally-balanced engines (where the relative position of the flywheel to the crankshaft is actually important. This is also common on internally-balanced engines where the flywheel is used to generate a sensor signal - like ours. Not universal, but common.)
Click to expand...

I agree with all of that 5-90, but we were taught in mechanic school way back when that you should put the ring gear back on in the same location on the carrier as it was when removed, "just in case" there was any run-out in the carrier. The gear would have worn-in and taken up some of that run out. You could put it back on the carrier in any location but it "may" be a little noisy for a while.

Its just part of my being anal about the things I have learned from respectable and knowledgeable instructors and that I still trust what was taught to me just as I have with what I have learned from you :thumbup:
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
I have a feeling thats going to be waaay over his head lol
Click to expand...

Maybe you need to reside at Pirate. You provided no help at all except to slam someone wanting help. I'm sure you've never had to ask a question at all, isn't that what this site is for, save your useless crap for another site, this is to help people, not show what a dick you are by being an ass!
 
xjtrailrider said:
I agree with all of that 5-90, but we were taught in mechanic school way back when that you should put the ring gear back on in the same location on the carrier as it was when removed, "just in case" there was any run-out in the carrier. The gear would have worn-in and taken up some of that run out. You could put it back on the carrier in any location but it "may" be a little noisy for a while.

Its just part of my being anal about the things I have learned from respectable and knowledgeable instructors and that I still trust what was taught to me just as I have with what I have learned from you :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Ah - that makes sense now. I'd forgotten about carrier/ring gear runout. I wasn't looking at a set of setup instructions (and yes, even though there are things I've done more times than I'd care to admit to, I still do them with instructions handy... I may not need them, but they're handy.)
 
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